Blood, Sweat, and Curses - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

GTSideSwipe · 10-26-2015, 03:56 AM

I looked up that kit and found quite a board on here and the first post on the 2nd page has the same kit with 20x8.5s in the front and 20x10s in the rear. If your looking for a little bit more side wall then you could go with 18s.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=471442&page=2

I also found a image on Google that has 16 inch rims with the look I'm going for.

JSF3RD · 10-26-2015, 04:05 AM

Yeah I've read through that board. Most of them that have 20" look like a low pro tire and I'm looking for a little more wall. I guess ill just have to step down to 18" to not rub.

GTSideSwipe · 10-26-2015, 04:25 AM

Here are some images of 16" examples. Will find some 18" ones now if you like.

GTSideSwipe · 10-26-2015, 04:37 AM

Some 18"

JSF3RD · 10-26-2015, 05:17 AM

Well, I like the dimensions of the 255/55. I know they're readily available in18 or 20. Just thought the 20 would have a little better aesthetic.

But I have to make some hard turns to get it into its parking spot because that area is actually to the side of my driveway. I don't want to have to constantly touch up my wheel wells from the rub.

JSF3RD · 10-26-2015, 06:40 PM

Got the radiator and fan shroud out. Turns out the radiator pan is toast too.

Someone please tell me their frame has this little flair by the fuel pump.

Sorry the light isn't better.

JSF3RD · 10-27-2015, 01:03 AM

Well, I looked at every other 67 build thread and it seems to be the norm.

Does anyone know why it's like that?

Xeen · 10-27-2015, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSF3RD

Well, I looked at every other 67 build thread and it seems to be the norm.

Does anyone know why it's like that?

I don't know why they did that but they are all like that.

JSF3RD · 11-13-2015, 07:45 PM

I know it's been a few weeks, but I have got quite a bit done.

I got the bed pulled off and the wheel tubs off the bed. Now I'm not sure what to do. I had a heck of a time just getting the tubs off because the square holes for the carriage bolts kept striping. I had to cut a lot of the bolts. I know the floor is toast but I'm not sure I can save the sides.

Can I even mount it to a new floor with the holes messed up, or is this a "time for a new bed" situation.

Xeen · 11-13-2015, 07:55 PM

If you show pictures of the damage with the question we can help you better.

JSF3RD · 11-14-2015, 12:21 AM

Well, the largest problem is that a lot of the bolts that hold the floor to the bedside are going to have to be cut. Some I can't get to without cutting the bed supports and bed front to shreds.

Also, if the carriage square in the bedside are rusted out to the point that I have to cut them, is it even possible to reuse them.

This is one of the bed mounts I had to cut. I'm afraid they're all going to be that stripped.

JSF3RD · 11-14-2015, 12:22 AM

I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow.

swamp rat · 11-14-2015, 12:51 AM

The good news is that little space you have to work with is paved, mine isn't.

Xeen · 11-14-2015, 11:00 AM

Don't worry about damaging the bed floor it can be welded, just try to do as little damage as possible.
The repop bed floor is $1,000.00 so keep that in mind.
The front panel can be replaced cheap.
The bedsides are going to have to be a judgement call after you get it completely apart and down to bare metal so you can evaluate how much damage there is, it may be cheaper to replace them with repops than the cost to repair them.
The repops are about $500 apiece.

JSF3RD · 11-14-2015, 12:31 PM

Yeah, im not worried about the floor because it's got a lot of places where its rusted through. If I tried to patch it it would be about 75% patch.
I think my best chance to save the sides is to sacrifice the front and floor.

Plus I think it originally had a wooden floor. Haven't decided if I want to go back to wood or redo metal.

Also, are the bed supports attached to the bed floor?

Xeen · 11-14-2015, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSF3RD

Also, are the bed supports attached to the bed floor?

There are floor support strips that are welded to the floor but those are separate from the support crossmembers.

JSF3RD · 11-15-2015, 12:49 AM

That's what I thought, but I think one of the POs did something to the crossmembers cuz they are not moving. IDK, maybe they've just rusted to the bottom. I didn't see any welds, but at this point I wouldn't be surprised by much.

JSF3RD · 12-02-2015, 07:43 PM

Well, once again I'm in a dilemma.

I got the bed pulled off as one piece. I started to take it apart and realized that its not coming apart in any useful manner.

So now I have to decide if I should try to keep useing this one for a while, or go ahead and sell it and start on a new one.

JSF3RD · 12-03-2015, 12:54 AM

Well, in the interest of getting the truck back up and running, I've decided that I'm gonna just weld up the biggest of the rotted spots. Grind it smooth, rattle can it, and let it ride till it either falls apart or I get around to doing a full frame off restoration.

I just have to keep reminding myself that this is damage control, not making it a show truck yet.

swamp rat · 12-03-2015, 03:19 AM

Bedsides have 2 or 3? bolts on the underside going up into the rear of the bedsides around the stake pocket area, kinda hard to see them if its a little dark, also the rear steak (yea i'm hungary LOL) pocket is welded on each side to the floor, once ya use a grinding wheel on the welds and tet the hidden bolts out, then the rest of the visable bolts then you only have to fight 40 years of rust as you wiggle the pieces apart..

JSF3RD · 12-03-2015, 03:42 AM

Well all my carriage holes are stripped and the PO tack welded every bed support to every spot it touches the floor. And my spare tire bracket is bolted by one of the bolts that are inside of the bed support.

Also, I can't even get to the ones in the front corner that hold the front/side/floor together.

There were many curses today.

Guess for now I'm just gonna make lemonade, and save for a new setup down the road.

swamp rat · 12-03-2015, 04:43 AM

Unbolt the bed from the frame and scoot it back a little to gain access to the front headboard bolts, support it with some timbers if need be..

All the bed supports are welded from factory I think, i have seen lots of beds that way with the steel floors, the wood beds are loose.

One tip i have read on this forum that i have not tried myself is that because the carriage bolts are pretty small and if they are rusty you can just tighten them until they snap off and that is suppose to keep the square head from spinning and hogging the square holes out.

JSF3RD · 12-04-2015, 01:54 AM

Yeah. I just don't think I can get it apart and have anything useful when I'm done. It'd just be reduced to patch panels by that point.

And if soaking all those bolts with liquid wrench and wd40 didn't get them apart, I don't think they're gonna come out.

Never heard of the tightening thing before. Guess I can try it. They're all stripping anyway. What's the worst that could happen?

10-26-2015, 03:56 AM	#26
GTSideSwipe Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Puyallup WA Posts: 127	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses I looked up that kit and found quite a board on here and the first post on the 2nd page has the same kit with 20x8.5s in the front and 20x10s in the rear. If your looking for a little bit more side wall then you could go with 18s. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=471442&page=2 I also found a image on Google that has 16 inch rims with the look I'm going for. Attached Images Last edited by GTSideSwipe; 10-26-2015 at 04:05 AM.

10-26-2015, 04:05 AM	#27
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Yeah I've read through that board. Most of them that have 20" look like a low pro tire and I'm looking for a little more wall. I guess ill just have to step down to 18" to not rub.

10-26-2015, 04:25 AM	#28
GTSideSwipe Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Puyallup WA Posts: 127	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Here are some images of 16" examples. Will find some 18" ones now if you like. Attached Images

10-26-2015, 04:37 AM	#29
GTSideSwipe Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Puyallup WA Posts: 127	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Some 18" Attached Images

10-26-2015, 05:17 AM	#30
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Well, I like the dimensions of the 255/55. I know they're readily available in18 or 20. Just thought the 20 would have a little better aesthetic. But I have to make some hard turns to get it into its parking spot because that area is actually to the side of my driveway. I don't want to have to constantly touch up my wheel wells from the rub.

10-26-2015, 06:40 PM	#31
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Got the radiator and fan shroud out. Turns out the radiator pan is toast too. Someone please tell me their frame has this little flair by the fuel pump. Sorry the light isn't better. Attached Images

10-27-2015, 01:03 AM	#32
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Well, I looked at every other 67 build thread and it seems to be the norm. Does anyone know why it's like that?

11-13-2015, 07:45 PM	#34
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses I know it's been a few weeks, but I have got quite a bit done. I got the bed pulled off and the wheel tubs off the bed. Now I'm not sure what to do. I had a heck of a time just getting the tubs off because the square holes for the carriage bolts kept striping. I had to cut a lot of the bolts. I know the floor is toast but I'm not sure I can save the sides. Can I even mount it to a new floor with the holes messed up, or is this a "time for a new bed" situation.

11-13-2015, 07:55 PM	#35
Xeen Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Topeka Kansas Posts: 2,655	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses If you show pictures of the damage with the question we can help you better. __________________ Please call me Brian. Check out My 1972 SWB Fleetside 5.3L Vortec Restomod Build

11-14-2015, 12:21 AM	#36
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Well, the largest problem is that a lot of the bolts that hold the floor to the bedside are going to have to be cut. Some I can't get to without cutting the bed supports and bed front to shreds. Also, if the carriage square in the bedside are rusted out to the point that I have to cut them, is it even possible to reuse them. This is one of the bed mounts I had to cut. I'm afraid they're all going to be that stripped. Attached Images

11-14-2015, 12:22 AM	#37
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow.

11-14-2015, 12:51 AM	#38
swamp rat Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Spanaway Posts: 8,451	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses The good news is that little space you have to work with is paved, mine isn't. __________________ Mike. Swamp Rat build thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019 72 3/4T 4X4 4" BDS Lift 33" BFG's

11-14-2015, 11:00 AM	#39
Xeen Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Topeka Kansas Posts: 2,655	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Don't worry about damaging the bed floor it can be welded, just try to do as little damage as possible. The repop bed floor is $1,000.00 so keep that in mind. The front panel can be replaced cheap. The bedsides are going to have to be a judgement call after you get it completely apart and down to bare metal so you can evaluate how much damage there is, it may be cheaper to replace them with repops than the cost to repair them. The repops are about $500 apiece. __________________ Please call me Brian. Check out My 1972 SWB Fleetside 5.3L Vortec Restomod Build

11-14-2015, 12:31 PM	#40
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Yeah, im not worried about the floor because it's got a lot of places where its rusted through. If I tried to patch it it would be about 75% patch. I think my best chance to save the sides is to sacrifice the front and floor. Plus I think it originally had a wooden floor. Haven't decided if I want to go back to wood or redo metal. Also, are the bed supports attached to the bed floor?

11-15-2015, 12:49 AM	#42
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses That's what I thought, but I think one of the POs did something to the crossmembers cuz they are not moving. IDK, maybe they've just rusted to the bottom. I didn't see any welds, but at this point I wouldn't be surprised by much.



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12-02-2015, 07:43 PM	#43
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Well, once again I'm in a dilemma. I got the bed pulled off as one piece. I started to take it apart and realized that its not coming apart in any useful manner. So now I have to decide if I should try to keep useing this one for a while, or go ahead and sell it and start on a new one.

12-03-2015, 12:54 AM	#44
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Well, in the interest of getting the truck back up and running, I've decided that I'm gonna just weld up the biggest of the rotted spots. Grind it smooth, rattle can it, and let it ride till it either falls apart or I get around to doing a full frame off restoration. I just have to keep reminding myself that this is damage control, not making it a show truck yet.

12-03-2015, 03:19 AM	#45
swamp rat Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Spanaway Posts: 8,451	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Bedsides have 2 or 3? bolts on the underside going up into the rear of the bedsides around the stake pocket area, kinda hard to see them if its a little dark, also the rear steak (yea i'm hungary LOL) pocket is welded on each side to the floor, once ya use a grinding wheel on the welds and tet the hidden bolts out, then the rest of the visable bolts then you only have to fight 40 years of rust as you wiggle the pieces apart.. __________________ Mike. Swamp Rat build thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019 72 3/4T 4X4 4" BDS Lift 33" BFG's

12-03-2015, 03:42 AM	#46
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Well all my carriage holes are stripped and the PO tack welded every bed support to every spot it touches the floor. And my spare tire bracket is bolted by one of the bolts that are inside of the bed support. Also, I can't even get to the ones in the front corner that hold the front/side/floor together. There were many curses today. Guess for now I'm just gonna make lemonade, and save for a new setup down the road.

12-03-2015, 04:43 AM	#47
swamp rat Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Spanaway Posts: 8,451	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Unbolt the bed from the frame and scoot it back a little to gain access to the front headboard bolts, support it with some timbers if need be.. All the bed supports are welded from factory I think, i have seen lots of beds that way with the steel floors, the wood beds are loose. One tip i have read on this forum that i have not tried myself is that because the carriage bolts are pretty small and if they are rusty you can just tighten them until they snap off and that is suppose to keep the square head from spinning and hogging the square holes out. __________________ Mike. Swamp Rat build thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019 72 3/4T 4X4 4" BDS Lift 33" BFG's

12-04-2015, 01:54 AM	#48
JSF3RD Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 46	Re: Blood, Sweat, and Curses Yeah. I just don't think I can get it apart and have anything useful when I'm done. It'd just be reduced to patch panels by that point. And if soaking all those bolts with liquid wrench and wd40 didn't get them apart, I don't think they're gonna come out. Never heard of the tightening thing before. Guess I can try it. They're all stripping anyway. What's the worst that could happen?

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