Rebuild hanging pedal assy

[54belair]

Has anyone rebuilt their hanging pedal assy? Can you pull the shaft/pin for the pedals without removing the entire bracket from the firewall? If so, what all did you have to remove to get to the plastic bushings on the shaft? Reason for the question is---I need to inspect/rebuild all bushings on my pedal assy and I really don't want to pull the entire assy from the firewall if its not necessary. Thanks for any assistance.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I believe the clutch pedal will come out without removing the assy from the firewall but not sure about the brake pedal.

[Ruscal]

My memory is a little foggy about that job. I thought the shaft was attached to the clutch pedal, and the brake was on a spline or similar. Or it could have been the other way. I got it out of there, replaced the bushings and modified the pedal attachment by adding a bolt or threads somehow. I don't recall why. I added adjustable clutch pedal stops at the top and floor so my hydraulic throw out bearing would not over travel. I would suggest just going at it and see if there is room to pull the shaft. I may have had to remove my '67 hand brake lever for access?
Russ

[54belair]

Well, Ive got to do whatever! I'm afraid Ill have to drop the column, pull the cluster and prob. have to unbolt the whole thing from the firewall-- hope it wont take that much but afraid it will. I put the bracket/pedal assy in, but the dash was stripped at the time-----This is what happens when you take short cuts (I didn't rebuild the pedal assy when I put it in)!!!

[palallin]

BE AWARE: There are two versions of that assembly. The heavier one has a VERY stiff clutch spring. When I attempted to remove mine some years ago, the spring brought the pedal around over center, and the pedal arm acted like a shear against the bracket, taking a goodly portion of one of my fingers with it. Treat that assembly with respect!

[54belair]

Thanks for the warning Palallin, but I have the other lighter weight assembly. When I bought the used clutch/brake assy (a few years ago now), the first one I bought Was the heavier unit. I didn't want that one so I ended up finding another one (one that I should have rebuilt Before I installed it)

[62bagger]

I just removed the pedal assembly from my 62. the clutch pedal has the shaft on it and it will come out without removing the bracket. by the way, I had a challenge finding the bushings for the 3/4" shaft. found them at 4speed conversions.com. the brake pedal will drop out once you pull the clutch pedal.

[swb4me]

I removed the entire assembly when i rebuilt it last year. It's a pain to remove, but it made the rebuilding much easier. My pedal assembly needed a little persuasion from a hammer to come apart, so I was glad it was on my bench and not in the truck. I bought my clutch pedal bushings here.
https://www.classicparts.com/mobile/...ctinfo/90-769/

[halfstep]

For those of you that have done this...
Did the bushings show wear and did it "feel" better after rebuilding?
Can anyone tell whether this assembly is the "heavy" or "lighter" model (came from a 71 or 72 1/2 ton).
Springs look to be light green and light blue.
Ruscal - I'd like to see the pedal stops you made - would you post photos?
Thanks

[54belair]

This is the "lighter" assembly. The "heavier" one has a large spring hooked to the side of the pedal. I am sure there is another designation other than heavy or light, I'm thinking the heavier pedal assy came in 1 ton or the like trucks.

[Ruscal]

Originally Posted by halfstep

Ruscal - I'd like to see the pedal stops you made - would you post photos?
Thanks

My truck is in a shop now. I will be down there tomorrow, so may be able to take pics. It is up on a rack, so maybe I can get a good camera angle from below.
My clutch pedal has been modified for a hydraulic release system. The travel has to be controlled to keep the throwout bearing from over travel. I made the clutch pedal ratio adjustable to get the right feel, and added floor and top out stops to the pedal.
Russ

[54belair]

Well, the process is finished----I started out trying to rebuild without removing from the truck, but in the end I had to pull the column out, remove the pedal bracket from the firewall, remove the instrument cluster----all the things I tried to avoid. In the end, its all back together, the brake works fine. It took me about 5 hours to disassemble and rebuild then another 3 hrs to put it all back together again. I also had to use a hammer to get the main shaft out. The bushings weren't all that bad but the shaft had rust , just enough to cause it to hang up a little.

[halfstep]

Thanks for the answers. I'm converting from auto to manual and hydraulic clutch.
I took the assembly in the photos out of another truck so I have no idea if it had any issues. It doesn't seem too, but the bushing do have cracks. With the assembly out and in hand its hard not to "rebuild" it. If it fights me I'll leave it be. Very easy to fall down the rabbit hole and re-do everything...
I do want to see what Ruscal did though, as it sounds like there may be more to getting a hydraulic clutch / pedal working well than just the rod alignment.

[jeffahart]

My two cents even though I'm late and I like to blabber... no short cut... remove the cluster, drop the column, give yourself plenty of room. I am the original dog lazy, king of shot cuts. And I removed every thing. Then get the assembly manual opened to the page with the assembly schematics. In the end, it will be the shot cut. Order all the nylon bushing in advance if you want to remove and replace the same day.


j

['68OrangeSunshine]

I have a '68 C/10 with the lighter assembly, and '71 GMC Jimmy K/1500 that has the HD spring. My guess is that it is a 2WD/4WD thing, but there could be other factors like 3/4 ton, 1 ton, IDK.

[Ruscal]

Here are a couple of shots I got showing the general placement of the clutch pedal stops I made. The stops were made from rubber bumpers with threaded shafts attached for mounting and adjustment. I cut the threaded rods to fit my application. For the floor stop I made a small sheetmetal dome, welded a nut to it and welded it to a rib on the firewall. I drilled the rib with a larger drill before welding so the threaded bumper would be able to hide more threads inside the rib. The top out stop was attached to the stock clutch hanger. The stock topout bumper was removed for space to weld on the nut for the new bumper.
You may be able to make out the clutch rod positioner on the upper clutch pedal. It has a slotted hole with serations to keep the push rod pivot from slipping. You could also do similar by drilling multiple holes in the clutch arm.
Russ