68 C10 Choke cable

[nickmomrik]

I want to put a choke cable back in, which the previous owner had removed. When I try to move the choke with my hand, there is very little movement though. A screw in the throttle is stopping it. Here are some pictures of what I have and one where I'm pointting at the screw that seems to be in the way. Can I simply loosen this to allow for clearance? Would love to learn and tackle this, but wondering if it is something I should take to my mechanic.
Thanks!
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[projectking]

Mine is the same way because the linkage is wore out some, not enough for a vacuum leak so I open the throttle a bit while setting the choke.

After zooming in it looks like your linkage is out of adjustment?

[saon]

your carb has a electric choke on it. you cant have a manual and a electric both. you will have to remove the electric part. its the round black plastic housing with the red 12volt key on wire going to it on the passenger side.

[Grumpy old man]

The choke was removed because that Edelbrock carb has an auto choke built into it and yours probably just needs adjusting ,There's more to it than just removing the black electric choke you would need the brackets and linkage to turn it back into a manual choke ,,,Follow the video --

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbRKe8q4LmY

[nickmomrik]

Ah ok! I was wondering what that was. I think I'll just rig something up to keep the knob in place on the dash then and skip the cable. Thanks!!
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[geezer#99]

That screw you’re pointing at is the high idle screw.
If you want to move the choke by hand just hold the throttle open.

BTW that rubber fuel line is a fire hazard.

[RichardJ]

In your 4th picture, you are pointing to the high-speed Idle linkage. If you screw up the high speed idle then there is not much sense in having a choke at all. They work together.

My pictures are of a '70 Carter AVS that I have on my 292 six. The carb primary side faces the driver side fender and the choke cable comes through the firewall on the other side of the brake MC.
The carb differences are not important as the choke and high-speed idle work the same.

You mentioned. " When I try to move the choke with my hand...... A screw in the throttle is stopping it".
projectking mentioned, "so I open the throttle a bit while setting the choke".

The high-speed idle linkage prevents the choke from closing until you release it by stepping on the throttle.

My carb with the original divorced choke had a bi-metal coil spring in a stove in the intake manifold that would wind up, under tension when the engine cooled down. When you step on the throttle to start, the coil unwinds, setting the high-speed idle and closing the choke.

The electric choke works pretty much the same way. When you install the elec choke cover, you wind it up, giving it the tension to close the choke and set the high-speed idle.

On a manual choke conversion, unless there is a provision made or you first step on the throttle, the choke cable will eventually brake or bend.

This is what I did on a Carter AVS to make the manual choke function properly.
The only part of this choke arm that is the same as yours, is the flat spots, locking the arm to the shaft. This has a flat washer that floats on the shaft. The screw tightens directly on the shaft and does not tighten the washer.

2nd picture shows shape of the aluminum L shaped arm that replaces the washer and is slightly thinner and also floats on the shaft.
3rd picture is engine off and choke not engaged.
4th picture has choke pulled completely ON. New arm rotates, stretching spring. Choke arm moves only slightly tightening up linkage.
5th picture is after the throttle has been operated and the new added choke spring sets the high-speed idle and closes the choke.

I haven't had an edelbrock apart in several years so I'm not sure the same could be accomplished as easily. The only thing to consider is that a choke cable can't operate directly on the choke linkage when the high-speed idle uses a step cam.