Newbie thinking about diving into a '65 GMC 1000

[Praxiss454]

Well after trying and failing to seal up my rear main seal from underneath the truck, I decided it's time to just pull the motor and rebuild. I snagged a harbor freight engine hoist from someone local, new in box for $50! Borrowing an engine stand from another buddy.

I've never done anything this extreme before, mechanically, so it will be a learning experience. You might think I'm crazy but I plan to keep the original L6 230 unless the machinist detects any cracks. Will likely bore out the cylinders a little bit, and consider getting a mild cam. This is going to be a driver (for now), not a hot rod.

This feels like a slippery slope I'm standing on...

[Praxiss454]

Of course, my inner monologue is screaming to just sell the damn thing and quit while I can. AFAICT no one makes a repop oil pan for this motor and truck. What if I get it all buttoned up after a rebuild and it still leaks.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

Of course, my inner monologue is screaming to just sell the damn thing and quit while I can. AFAICT no one makes a repop oil pan for this motor and truck. What if I get it all buttoned up after a rebuild and it still leaks.

The oil pan and gasket should be more forgiving than that unless its just completely hosed up. Once you have it out and can get it upside down on an engine stand you should be able to "persuade" it flat, or at least flat enough with a block of wood and a hammer.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

This feels like a slippery slope I'm standing on...

It is

[joe dirt]

any updates?

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by joe dirt

any updates?

Yes! It's been a while since I posted, but I pulled the engine, got it rebuilt over what was a long and arduous process, got it put back in, and just yesterday fired it up for the first time and ran it through a break-in process.

The engine started up and ran great! Unfortunately, I'm spraying oil and I don't know from where. I hammered the oil pan rim flat, torqued things to spec. It seems to not matter. I'm wondering if I'd have better luck if I reinforce the edge w/ a strip of metal and torque those ****ers down tighter. Sure wish I had done that when the engine was on a stand and easily accessible. I really don't want to have to pull the MFer again.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

Of course, my inner monologue is screaming to just sell the damn thing and quit while I can. AFAICT no one makes a repop oil pan for this motor and truck. What if I get it all buttoned up after a rebuild and it still leaks.

Funny enough, I fire it up and it sprays like a mofo. Very stressed and frustrated about that.

[Praxiss454]

I tracked down one major oil leak to the valve cover under the air cleaner. I snugged all the bolts down lightly and that leak seems to have resolved. I probably have a few more weepers to track down but feel much better that it was a simple fix so far.

I do have two questions I'm now facing.

1. What is the proper way to set the clutch pedal? As I currently have it set up, I have to push it all the way to the floor before it engages enough. Is that right?

2. My idle set screw on the rochester single barrel carb keeps backing itself out, and fast. What's the trick?

[Captainfab]

Pushing the clutch pedal to the floor should disengage the clutch. When properly adjusted you should have about 1" of free pedal at the top, before it starts to disengage.

If you are talking about the idle speed screw, there should be a spring under it that holds tension on it.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Pushing the clutch pedal to the floor should disengage the clutch. When properly adjusted you should have about 1" of free pedal at the top, before it starts to disengage.

If you are talking about the idle speed screw, there should be a spring under it that holds tension on it.

Hmm I guess I am missing a spring under that screw. I'll try to find one. Thanks.

I'm worried I installed my clutch wrong somehow. I haven't tried driving or putting in gear yet, so it's probably fine. But I just am worried I messed something up and won't find out til I try to drive.

[Praxiss454]

So I ended up blowing the camshaft during break-in, despite every effort to do things by the book. I think the problem might have been waiting too long between assembling and firing it up, but who knows.

Dropped the pan and there was a bit of metal dust in the oil residue, so I cleaned out the bottom half. Checked one of the rod bearings and crank bearings and they were both fine, so I buttoned it back up. Put in a new cam and lifters, and away we go. Things seem to be good now, the oil after break-in was pretty clean, and it runs well. Still a bit noisy until it's warmed up. Not sure if that's because the rockers are a quarter turn too loose or thats just what these old engines sound like.