Eaton HO72/HO52 vs. 14 Bolt FF

[Getter-Done]

Did it have a stack of shims between the Pinion housing and Rear-end case?

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Did it have a stack of shims between the Pinion housing and Rear-end case?

If it did I was unaware, I removed the 5 bolts then tried to remove the pinion nut, it's very stuck so I left it. 2 years later came back and that's where I'm at. Everything moved by hand twisting the pinion before I tightened the 5 bolts down. Now the wheels will move but the pinion I cant move all but a couple inches then I stops.

[Getter-Done]

I have 3 of these Rear Chucks.
I have not disassembly any of them except for removing that one bolt to get a measurement.
I hope I can help you with this problem.
Are you familiar with how to set the ring and pinion back lash with Persion blue?

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Attachment 1809813

I have 3 of these Rear Chucks.
I have not disassembly any of them except for removing that one bolt to get a measurement.
I hope I can help you with this problem.
Are you familiar with how to set the ring and pinion back lash with Persion blue?

I'm very under educated when it comes to anything pinion, I can pull axles and set a new diff in but that's about it.

[Getter-Done]

That is why this Forum is so good.
I will try to find the link you need to look at.
The Adjustment for this issue is right behind the pinion bolts on the drivers side(I Think}.
But let me look at my spare chucks tomorrow and see.
Maybe some one that has Rebuilt one of these will chime in.
I like this type of rear end because once you get the chuck set up it is a push in and bolt up deal.

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

That is why this Forum is so good.
I will try to find the link you need to look at.
The Adjustment for this issue is right behind the pinion bolts on the drivers side(I Think}.
But let me look at my spare chucks tomorrow and see.
Maybe some one that has Rebuilt one of these will chime in.
I like this type of rear end because once you get the chuck set up it is a push in and bolt up deal.

I hope so, it has been very bullet proof untill my gorilla hands got ahold of it 😅 I'll hang tight for a while and maybe try and stab the motor in the meantime. Thanks for all your help, it really is the coolest thing to have so many like minded people in one spot. Cheers.

[Getter-Done]

Here is only a Example link just to give you something to think about.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...inion+backlash

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Here is only a Example link just to give you something to think about.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...inion+backlash

Thank you, I'll start reading up.

[Killer Bee]

step 8 may be of assistance here as well as lots of useful HO52/HO72 info..

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/a...Ton%20Upgrade/

I think you're referencing the load bolt on the exterior that is only on HO72 I believe..


I have a non locker HO52 in my K20 burb and a donor HO72 locker I plan to swap in..

both 4.10 ratio so planning to just swap third members and move on..

sorry but that's about all I've got, good luck!

[Getter-Done]

This is the link I was looking for.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=714492
Hope this helps to give you ideas.
Search the Web for ring and pinion depth.
That sounds to be your issue.

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

step 8 may be of assistance here as well as lots of useful HO52/HO72 info..

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/a...Ton%20Upgrade/

I think you're referencing the load bolt on the exterior that is only on HO72 I believe..


I have a non locker HO52 in my K20 burb and a donor HO72 locker I plan to swap in..

both 4.10 ratio so planning to just swap third members and move on..

sorry but that's about all I've got, good luck!

I read somewhere a while ago that the ho52s, don't have a crush sleeve in that case how do I go about tourqing the pinion nut down after I take it apart. Just throw 100ft lbs at it?

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by Tdbengry

I read somewhere a while ago that the ho52s, don't have a crush sleeve in that case how do I go about tourqing the pinion nut down after I take it apart. Just throw 100ft lbs at it?

I haven't had one apart myself but the general consensus seems to be that.. I'm sure there's a bearing preload procedure for it though.. I did stumble across this site that sells parts for these and seems that only shims are required for pinion depth, no crush sleeve for preload..

http://www.quad4x4.com/catalog/categ...-1972#cat_2846

if it were me, I'd consult Anaheim gear [local to me] and either pay a few bucks for a professional bench setup or ask for some free advice and drop off a couple of twelvers..

there's more info out there including factory repair manuals as well that could be consulted for proper procedures.. I just haven't gone that far since both of mine are in good order not requiring disassembly as far as I can tell at this point..

pirate4x4.com has a lot of threads on the subject but tread carefully there.. loosely moderated and you'll have to sort the fly poop from the pepper..

if I turn up any info I'll gladly share, good luck!

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

step 8 may be of assistance here as well as lots of useful HO52/HO72 info..

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/a...Ton%20Upgrade/

I think you're referencing the load bolt on the exterior that is only on HO72 I believe..


I have a non locker HO52 in my K20 burb and a donor HO72 locker I plan to swap in..

both 4.10 ratio so planning to just swap third members and move on..

sorry but that's about all I've got, good luck!

I've pulled the axle, I was getting tired of climbing under the truck, gets tricky at 6'2" and 285 lbs. So now I have access to both sides of the pumpkin, to check pinion depth and bearing caps ect.

[Getter-Done]

Good choice.
This way you will also have more light on the subject.
Have you purchased any Persian blue to check your pinion depth?

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Good choice.
This way you will also have more light on the subject.
Have you purchased any Persian blue to check your pinion depth?

Not yet, I've got a little bit of yard work that needs to be handled then off to the parts store!

[Tdbengry]

So I pulled the cover and to be dumbfounded. Nothing seems out of place... no locker 😥 but both axles are spinning with the ring and pinion. But where I'm stumped is when it was under the truck, I could only move the pinion 2 inches total. When on jack stands I can spin it for ever no locking no funny business.

[Tdbengry]

https://youtu.be/6I5kb-lUD9U

https://youtu.be/WlbrimAlmVw

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Tdbengry

https://youtu.be/6I5kb-lUD9U

https://youtu.be/WlbrimAlmVw

In the second video
when you was holding the pinion and moving the ring-gear / That appears to be way to much backlash (Slop) it should only have a few thousandths (0.008 to 0.010) thousandths of an inch.

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

In the second video
when you was holding the pinion and moving the ring-gear / That appears to be way to much backlash (Slop) it should only have a few thousandths (0.008 to 0.010) thousandths of an inch.

How do I go about correcting that?

https://youtu.be/ZoLpCK_q9ys

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Tdbengry

How do I go about correcting that?

https://youtu.be/ZoLpCK_q9ys

Let me get a picture of my chunk set up to check it for a Visual.
Then I will see what type of adjustment those have.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Tdbengry

So I pulled the cover and to be dumbfounded. Nothing seems out of place... no locker 😥 but both axles are spinning with the ring and pinion. But where I'm stumped is when it was under the truck, I could only move the pinion 2 inches total. When on jack stands I can spin it for ever no locking no funny business.

I don't mean to be insulting at all, so please don't take it that way. When it was on the truck, you had both wheels off the ground correct? A good distance off the ground? Assuming you did, was the ebrake on even slightly? Or could if have been the shoes catching? Are you absolutely certain that it was locking up when you tried rotating the pinion or was it just enough resistance that you couldn't overcome it without a bigger lever (ie, rotating the wheels). It just seems to me your looking for a problem that isn't really there. I've been down that road before myself, chasing something and the answer was so obvious I couldn't see it.

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by jdl71

I don't mean to be insulting at all, so please don't take it that way. When it was on the truck, you had both wheels off the ground correct? A good distance off the ground? Assuming you did, was the ebrake on even slightly? Or could if have been the shoes catching? Are you absolutely certain that it was locking up when you tried rotating the pinion or was it just enough resistance that you couldn't overcome it without a bigger lever (ie, rotating the wheels). It just seems to me your looking for a problem that isn't really there. I've been down that road before myself, chasing something and the answer was so obvious I couldn't see it.

None taken, I had the wheels 4 inches off the ground I think I had one of the axle nuts to tight and was just enough resistance to cause the problem, the e brake hasn't been working for years😅

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by tdbengry

how do i go about correcting that?

https://youtu.be/zolpck_q9ys

1st pic is adjustment collar. Red paint is collar yellow is the lock for the collar.
2nd and 3rd pics are indicator and magnetic base to check backlash.
These can be purchased at harbor freight.
4th is adjustment collar for other side.

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Attachment 1810386

Attachment 1810387

Attachment 1810388

Attachment 1810389
1st pic is adjustment collar. Red paint is collar yellow is the lock for the collar.
2nd and 3rd pics are indicator and magnetic base to check backlash.
These can be purchased at harbor freight.
4th is adjustment collar for other side.

Okay that's what I'd thought, now here is the million dollar question. I can hope the pinion still and then rock the ring gear, when the pinion is held still there is little to no movement between the 2 now if I let go of the pinion it move the ring gear and axles all together. So I'm betting the back lash is probably where it needs to be.

I haven't moved the adjustment lock tabs at all sense I've owned the truck.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Tdbengry

Okay that's what I'd thought, now here is the million dollar question. I can hope the pinion still and then rock the ring gear, when the pinion is held still there is little to no movement between the 2 now if I let go of the pinion it move the ring gear and axles all together. So I'm betting the back lash is probably where it needs to be.

I haven't moved the adjustment lock tabs at all sense I've owned the truck.

Yes .Hold the Pinion still. Then move the carrier back and forth. There should be about (0.010 to 0.030") best I remember.
The Pinion housing was removed thou(right).
If so this could change things.

Pinion depth and the ring gear pressure against the ring go hand in hand.
Maybe you got lucky and the pinion is put back just like it came out.