55.2-59 Brian’s 59 Apache Fleetside project

[Brians59]

Hi All,
My build that I am working on is a 1959 Chev Apache Fleetside. I know some may frown but I am building a napco clone using a mid 2000s Yukon. I am attempting to use all of the electronics/wiring and other stuff from the Yukon - steering column and controls, 4x4, ABS, traction control, etc. and it has been a slow go.
I am reaching out to say hi and see if I can get some opinions on a few of the decisions I still have to make.

I have purchased a cowl vent omit plate and I am planning on closing up that system. Partially because I need the space for Yukon wiring, speakers, etc. and partially because I don’t want any mice to get into this as it will be an outside truck.

I have a question about the vintage air system. I bought the universal slimline model that has both a heater and A/C but no fresh air source. The questions is do I install it as is, or build a fresh air source? Has anyone done this? I was thinking to either add a vent under the fender or a pop up style.

Please share your thoughts.
Brian

[dsraven]

welcome. good to see another Canadian on here.
your truck looks like it's in really good shape. do you have a good box as well?
when you say you are using a yukon to get a napco clone, do you mean you are doing a frame swap or are you swapping in suspension parts from a yukon under your original frame. will you also swap in the yukon engine, trans, transfer case?
have you downloaded the factory assembly manual? it will likely be really handy for you. frame dimensions etc. it's a free download from the trifive site. google 55-59 chevrolet truck factory assembly manual and click on the trifive site. I suggest you keep a copy on a thumbdrive

[Rickysnickers]

Looks like you've got quite the project planned ahead! Good luck with it and keep posting photos.

[dsraven]

Brian, I sent you a private message when you get to it.

[Brians59]

Here is how it all started:
I started with a complete original truck purchased at auction in 2015.
I started on the hood, doors, and fenders from this body. I worked on these outside and as they were completed, they were set aside.

In 2020 it was time to start on the cab. As my cab was in really bad shape, I found a different cab in 2020. The donor truck was no better once the sandblaster was finished with it. I had to replace steps, front floor boards, rear cab corners, inner front cab roof and windowsill filler piece.

In 2021 I obtained a Yukon to provide me with all of the drivetrain and electronics.

My goal is to use as much of the Yukon as possible, have a daily driver that I can have some fun with and be reliable.

[dsraven]

somebody else on this site did a yukon swap. can't remember who right now. I believe he widened the box using a perimeter of square tubing and then sheeted over that to mount the rear step side fenders. maybe you can find it by doing a search on the site.

[dsraven]

when thinking of an outside air pick up area for the heater, you could use a vent hole anywhere on the plenum that goes aross the front of the cab in front of the windshield. it comes out at the footwell vents and then drains below that, well, when I say drains it only drains if the drains aren't clogged at the bottom. as you likely have figured out, the drain hole is already partially blocked by the GM tin flap they use to partially cover the drain. dunno why they did that but they musta had their reasons i guess. anyway, it doesn't take much pine needles or leaves to build up in the small drain hole and then it is almost fully blocked, when that happens the water will build up in the plenum until it reaches the kick panel vents at which time it will run out on the floor of the truck and then down to the steps, especially on a heavy rain or when the snow is melting fast and the drain is iced up or plugged. this eventually rts the floor, hingle pillar, step area and anything below that, like the cab mounts. on my cab the floor seemed to go downhill towards the front and that was because the weight of the front of the cab was sitting on rusted out cab mounts and hinge pillars so the floor was bending under the weight. thats one reason why I used the floor and firewall from my donor vehicle when I did the frame swap.

[dsraven]

when using the AC in the summer most techs will say to use the inside air option because the AC dries the air as it goes through the evaporator inside the unit. this makes the moisture collect as frost on the evaporator. when the AC compressor cycles off for a minute because it has reached the temp set point the frost has a chance to warm up and melt off. this moisture is drained to the outside and is the reason why there is a puddle under the front pass side of a modern vehicle that runs AC in the summer. eventually the ambient moisture has been collected and drained except for what you are giving off personally so the system works better. when using the outside air option in the summer it is usually because it is hot outside. hot air contains more moisture than cold air, so if you use outside air option the AC evaporator is always collecting moisture and is also using warmer outside air to try to cool things off instead of the already partially cooled interior air. for that reason I would say you likely don't need anoutside air source unless you plan to use the truck year round where you have snow melting off your shoes etc. in more modern cars the AC runs in the background to help remove some of the moisture in those cases, thats why you will hear the AC compressor cycling in the winter and wonder what the heck, it;s minus 30 out and the AC is trying to operate?

[Brians59]

Thanks Dsraven, I will block off those chambers.

[Brians59]

I finished the inner fender modifications to fit the computer and under hood fuse box in the engine bay. I had to extent the wiring harness to move the computer to the passenger side inner fender. There is not much room left I have to figure out what can be used for an air filter box, squeeze a radiator overflow, battery, and a washer fluid reservoir somewhere in there.

[dsraven]

dont be afraid to take the inner fender off, install the wheels, drop the suspension down like you went over a huge bump and see what you have for room left over. you can always make a new inner fender with a different contour to give you more room. as long as you have room for the wheel in a worst case scenario as the suspension bottoms with the wheels turned. you could possibly make a new inner fender that would give you more room under the hood. my under hood area is pretty full as well but I am thinking of extending the wire harness to allow my under hood fuse/relay box to be installed behind the seat in the cab. my battery is under the front of the box floor presently. I have a complete wiring harness from another wreck so I may be able to scrounge enough connector parts to make a plug and play extension cord.

[dsraven]

hey rickysnickers, thanks for editting the pics to be right side up, appreciated.

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by dsraven

hey rickysnickers, thanks for editting the pics to be right side up, appreciated.

Of course, no problem. I hate twisted pics. I sit there turning my head trying to look at them, LOL. That said, everyone keep posting your photos!! If they need to be straightened out, I will take care of it!! We all LOVE pictures

[Brians59]

Finally got back at it. My son was visiting this weekend and I had him put the front fenders back on. I still need to make some adjustments as they don’t match the door profiles.

[Brians59]

I needed to cut the glove box door as it swings too low to allow for the AC unit to be mounted tight to the dash.
Has anyone modified hinge location or cut their glove box door in two?
I found a pic of the hinge I think I need to make.
Let me know your thoughts.

[dsraven]

you need some sort of zero clearance hinge, like a hidden cupboard door would have.