Q-A1 coil over shock on G body clip

[Kevin Mac]

To the best of my research I have a G body clip that has been lowered by heating the springs. My question is if anybody has used drop spindles and Q-A1 coil over shocks to give a little more adjustment to get rid of the heated springs. I like the stance how it sits and just trying to get a better ride and probably much safer too.

I have weighed the front, 2200 pounds. The part number that I have found is GS401-10450C, 1901-2000 pounds which is 450# spring rate.

The PO said it was a 79 Firebird clip but when I changed the centerlink that part did not match, but a 79 Prand Prix did. So I am thinking the
grand Prix is what I am going to use to order parts. It seams that the Firebird has alot of different parts that other G body's. By the way its a 48 chevy.


Thanks Mac

[my56chevytruck]

[QUOTE=Kevin Mac;8064294]To the best of my research I have a G body clip that has been lowered by heating the springs. My question is if anybody has used drop spindles and Q-A1 coil over shocks to give a little more adjustment to get rid of the heated springs. I like the stance how it sits and just trying to get a better ride and probably much safer too.

I have weighed the front, 2200 pounds. The part number that I have found is GS401-10450C, 1901-2000 pounds which is 450# spring rate.

The PO said it was a 79 Firebird clip but when I changed the centerlink that part did not match, but a 79 Prand Prix did. So I am thinking the
grand Prix is what I am going to use to order parts. It seams that the Firebird has alot of different parts that other G body's. By the way its a 48 chevy.

I was told all 71-80 GM's were the same, you may be correct, 2ndly, if you are using drop spindles and adjustable coil overs, seems to me a bit overkill. I've got a 2nd gen Camaro front clip with 2" dropped spindles and it sets in the front great. Yes, I'd get rid of heated springs, and go with the dropped spindles with the stock suspension before the investment of adjustable coilovers, my .02 worth

[bowt1ed]

Hey 56 - what dropped spindles did you use? What discs?

Jim

[my56chevytruck]

I bought mine from Summit Racing; CAMARO McGaughy's Lowering Spindles part number 7981

[mr48chev]

Reading that about three times I think Kevin just has overheated springs about the same as my 51 Merc had when bought it in 1963. The old quick and nasty to lower a coil spring rig. Heat them red hot and set it down on the shop floor an hope it settles down just where you want it. Both of my front springs were broken when I subframed it in the early 80's along with the stock crossmember being cracked in several places and almost every front end part being worn out.

If it was me I'd go one step at a time even if it takes tearing the front suspension apart again a couple of times. The following suggestions are just different ways you could go about accomplishing what you want to. Some cost more and some cost less, all take about the same amount of work.
If you like the idea of the tube A arms and coil overs get the A arms and the coil overs and do the swap, put it back together with the stock spindles and run it around the block and park in the driveway and stand back and see how it looks. Then decide if you can fine tune it by adjusting the ride height with the coil overs or need dropped spindles.

One other option is proper lowering coil springs that give the ride height you have now with a better ride.

Third option is stock springs and the dropped spindles. or a combo of lowering springs and dropped spindles.

A bit of snooping around might find a factory G body spring for some model that was lower from the factory than other models. That would give you a lower starting point to use with dropped spindles and still have a full spring action.

[Kevin Mac]

my56chevytruck, I would like to save on the springs if the 2" drop is enough. Did you use the stock springs that came with donor clip or did you buy new? I assume you did this on a 56, not sure how different that will sit compared to a 48. Thanks for input.

Mac

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by Kevin Mac

my56chevytruck, I would like to save on the springs if the 2" drop is enough. Did you use the stock springs that came with donor clip or did you buy new? I assume you did this on a 56, not sure how different that will sit compared to a 48. Thanks for input.

Mac

Hi Mac, YES, I used the springs that came with the 2nd gen Camaro front clip. I also have a BBC in the truck, which weighs some more than a SBC. Don't know how much that will affect your stance. I would think it would sit and ride well. Measure under your front fenders or crossmember or something you can get to before and after. Good luck

[Coupeguy2001]

I have a Kimbridge front frame stub in my 57. It is essentially a custom G body geometry front frame stub.
The springs I used are QA1 coilovers, and tubular upper control arms.
I got the coil-overs from speedway motors in Lincoln Nebraska. They are 550's

I also used 1996 Impala SS wheels, with 255/50/17 tires.
I had a heck of a time finding springs that would raise the truck up enough to be drive height, and finally went with the QA1's.
The problem is that G bodys never came out with big block engines.
Stock springs are not up to the task if the vehicle weighs more than a stock G body with a small block.
but I would bet that your springs haven't been heated, they are just not strong enough to raise the truck up to a driveable height.

What I did was use dirt track rotors with different bearings to get the 5 on 5 lug pattern to match the 72 rear axle. They are available from Speedway as well.
I also used the tall ball joints in the upper control arms to control the wheel arc as it raises and lowers the spindle when you go over bumps or dive into a rut.
I have not had any problems since I used Moog parts, because some auto parts ball joints etc. are made in various countries, and various quality exists.

[Kevin Mac]

Thanks Coupeguy, the spring have been heated. You can tell by the coils being closer together at places. I am going to try and get it done in the next month or so. Maybe I will just get the drop spindles and regular coils for now and see where that gets me. I really don't want to do it twice though.
I like the idea of the longer ball joints too, that will help get more caster i believe.

Mac

[Coupeguy2001]

my tubular upper control arms have an extra 3 degrees of caster built in.
The truck drives good, and there is no bump steer. I did the ball joints to keep the top of the tires from moving outwards when the tires moved up during a turn negotiating a bump. They just move in instead of moving outwards on an arc, allowing some extra clearance because my tires are so close to the fender lips.
My truck rides low in the front because the frame stub is z'ed 2 inches.
i used 3 inch drop springs in the rear and made longer shackles that were 1 1/2 inches longer than stock.
I cut the factory bump stops 1 1/4 inches, and the rear never hits the frame unless I am carrying 500 pounds or more in the back.

[bobinbc]

Mac I installed a G-body frame stub in my old 57. It was from a 81 Grand Prix and it was welded in with the top of the stub level with the top of my truck frame. Cut 1 coil from the stock springs and it sat nice and low and drove great. Took it to an alignment shop and it aligned perfectly. No drop spindles. * Hamilton Tiger-Cats cheerleaders at the Grey Cup 2005

[Kevin Mac]

Bobinbc your truck sits nice. Mine is also welded in with top of frame flush. I am still doing a lot of reading to figure out what all I want to buy. I am going to replace control arm bushing while I have it apart so more decisions to make with what kind of bushings to use.

Thanks for input. Mac

[my56chevytruck]

yes bobinbc your truck sets very well, what size engine are you running?
Not sure if this is applicable or not, but I've cut springs over the years and in one situation I would bang hard if I hit a high spot in the road or a dip, so just thought i'd throw that out. I agree with you Kevin Mac, get the new springs and 2" dropped spindles and you can find out, you can always put the old spindles back in and cut a coil if you're not happy. Good luck

[bobinbc]

That truck had a small block and a turbo 400. Cutting the spring shortens the coil which actually makes it stiffer but not a lot. The stock springs are pretty soft anyway on a G-body. My truck rode really well and I never had a problem with it bottoming the suspension. The front fender behind the wheel was where I had to be careful on speed bumps etc...

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by bobinbc

That truck had a small block and a turbo 400. Cutting the spring shortens the coil which actually makes it stiffer but not a lot. The stock springs are pretty soft anyway on a G-body. My truck rode really well and I never had a problem with it bottoming the suspension. The front fender behind the wheel was where I had to be careful on speed bumps etc...

with the front tires I currently have, I had to roll the inner fender in, was only a problem with very sharp turns, I avoid that now as much as I can. I'll be changing tires from and rear next here.

[bowt1ed]

I also have my 2nd Gen flush with top of frame and it sat the same (as bobinbc) with one coil of stock springs cut out. However, since blowing apart and replacing all bushings, ball joints, and going with Hotchkis lowering springs, I'm around 6 inches higher.... Trying to decide whether to go with drop spindles and/or cut those springs down to get it back down where I want it. I have heard that having the LCA parallel to ground is what you want, which is what I have - just need to bring it back down a few inches. With the LCA's parallel, should I attempt drop spindles with cutting a coil, or just go back with stock springs and cut? Don' recall how the LCA's were before I blowing apart.

Thanks, Jim

[Kevin Mac]

Well I have been pugging away with the coilover swap. I ended up getting the economy coilovers, they were $100 cheaper. The difference is they are not adjustable for rebound and compression, but they can lower your ride by 3". My hope is that will be enough without buying drop spindles.

I think this is some kind of madness, it started with just a swap of parts and now I am sandblasting and chassis coating the a arms, bought a press and a bubble caster camber gauge!






Mac

[Kevin Mac]

Latest update, I got everything together and took it for a ride and it was 100% better. It is not as low as it was so I am going to buy 2" drop spindles. The Q-A1 parts are nice and would recommend to anyone. I bought springs in the 2000-2100 range because that is what it weighed at the local MFA scales, but I really wanted to get the 1900-2000 thinking it would sit better. Over all I am happy with how it turned out. Now to do something with the stock rear leaf springs to smooooth it out.

Mac