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Old 05-29-2003, 06:18 PM   #1
71-longbed
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track arm bushings

this job seems pretty basic
any tips...... i figured i'd run it by the coolest guys on the net :p
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71 C10 LWB
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12 bolt 3.42 Posi



Of all my favorite things to do, The utmost is to have a brew.
My love grows for my foamy friend, with each thirst-quenching elbow bend.
Beer so frosty, smooth, and cold it's paradise pure liquid gold.
Yes beer means many things to me that's all for now cus I gotta pee.
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Old 05-29-2003, 06:25 PM   #2
COBALT
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Trailing arm bushings, sway bar bushings, or panhard bar bushings?
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Old 05-29-2003, 06:34 PM   #3
71-longbed
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its not a sway bar ...its the bar that runs diagonal in front of the rear differential ...are they only called panhard when its leaf springs ..why 2 names ??
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71 C10 LWB
350sbc -TH350
12 bolt 3.42 Posi



Of all my favorite things to do, The utmost is to have a brew.
My love grows for my foamy friend, with each thirst-quenching elbow bend.
Beer so frosty, smooth, and cold it's paradise pure liquid gold.
Yes beer means many things to me that's all for now cus I gotta pee.
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Old 05-29-2003, 07:06 PM   #4
COBALT
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Well I've got coils and it's a panhard bar.

Don't let this little "job" fool you. The things that can happen when you think something's easy are uncountable. The big problem you're going to have is getting the bar back in with the new bushings on it.

I got my bushings from Early Classic Enterprises, but I think Energy Suspension Systems make them. I unbolted the bolts that hold it in, and knocked the bar out with a hammer. Then I got out the blue torch and burned the old bushings until the center sleaves fell out on the floor. Once they were cooled I wire brushed the bar down and cleaned it. I installed the new bushings, and THIS is when I started having problems.

The problem was the geometry of the differential. I didn't realize the panhard bar was under torsion when I removed it. When I went to put it back in it wouldn't fit. It looked like the differential needed to be rotated back to get the bar to go in. I spend a good 20 minutes under the truck with the pinion yoke of that big HO52 Corp. 10 bolt axle on my shoulder trying to get it in. I finally use a floor jack and a block to apply just enough lift to get the bar lined up, and then I used a hammer to knock it in place. Getting the bolts to line up was yet another problem. I worked myself to death getting that bar right, but I finally got it.

If I were you I'd solidly support the pinion yoke, and I wouldn't remove the bar until it would slide out with just your hand. Anything else and you'll have problems getting it back in.
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Old 05-29-2003, 07:44 PM   #5
cdowns
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i think if you place jackstands under the frame rails and let the rear hang it will be easier to replace
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Old 05-29-2003, 08:01 PM   #6
71-longbed
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thanks for the tips .... i wasn't aware the diff. was under torsion ...so should jacking up the frame relieve the torsion in the rear end ??

any other suggestions
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71 C10 LWB
350sbc -TH350
12 bolt 3.42 Posi



Of all my favorite things to do, The utmost is to have a brew.
My love grows for my foamy friend, with each thirst-quenching elbow bend.
Beer so frosty, smooth, and cold it's paradise pure liquid gold.
Yes beer means many things to me that's all for now cus I gotta pee.
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Old 05-29-2003, 10:03 PM   #7
Brad
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Cobalt's right on the money when he says it's harder than it looks.
I had a hard time when I replaced my adjustable bar. I had to pull it twice in order to figure out the exact center of where the axle should go when I lowered my truck. It didn't get any easier after the first time due to the weird angle of the "thingymobober" on the pumpkin. I think Cobalt and Cdowns have the right idea on letting the differential hang down. I can't quite remember how I finally got mine back on, but I do know it involved ALOT of "mother____'s", g.d-it's, and a bf hammer! Good luck.
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