Cooling Issue

[Port&PolishMan]

OK - Just sitting in Drive way read - 165 degrees all of a Sudden - starts
Puking Coolant - over Flow just some - Pint or so . .

I had turn down the Heater Valve . . sooo OK are these Heater Valves
Suppose to By Pass - the Heater Core , but Keep Circulating - back to Pump and Block ?

As it seemed with Heater valve Shut - NO Flow Everything Stopped on
That Line - Period . . ( Suppose to be the way it works ) ?

Just seems to Me the Heater Valve Block would send it back to recirculate . .

[Port&PolishMan]

Anyone - on Heater Valve Block ?

Also Recommendations on Slim Flex Fan - maybe that Pull More Air ..

[1project2many]

How full was radiator? Is it sealed with recovery can or open with dump tube?

What heater valve? Picture in profile looks like truck older than 47?

I don't like the flex fans. Some folks have good luck, but I have not.

[Port&PolishMan]

1958 1 Ton the Heater Core Lines - Open seems Not do over flow it was Full ..

The Valve does it By-Pass & Return to Block , If You shut it all way down .

80 Degrees Here today - Dam - Hot .
It wasn't driven just warming up .. sitting ..

[Port&PolishMan]

Just got the U-Bolts Loose they Look Good Shape & Clean .

[_Ogre]

at 165* the thermostat hasn't even opened, if you had just topped off the radiator, heated fluids expand, you may have just been over full

[Port&PolishMan]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

at 165* the thermostat hasn't even opened, if you had just topped off the radiator, heated fluids expand, you may have just been over full

Could Be - thinking about a Flex Fan to Pull more Air . .

It has a 190 Stat in it , so may try 180 stat Precision Balanced , which Should control sudden Spikes - Better ..

[Port&PolishMan]

Wow - Residual Heat in Brick got Home Warm Last Night I woke up 3:45am
To Hot - down stairs Hot Coffee -( Really I'm Thinking ) I have to go outside get Fresh Air .

Now Looking at a Possible $190 Tire that way be Toast If I don't due something
and I haven't attempted - anything like this 4 - 40 yrs.

OK Under Truck taking measurements Upside Down on back thinking which way did this Dam thing Move . . . . . .

Floppy Spark Plug Wires - that were almost dragging on Header Pipe - seeking a Melt Through !
Over Flow - Puking all over the Engine bay - Oh Joy !

What's Next !


OK - so Now I just have to find Out what Type of Engine I Actually have
as it is a Miss Mash of 70 - 79 Mix of Parts - No Flat Tappet - has Hydraulic
I guess - but has Had it's Original Pistons Changed had to be Bored Most likely to It's Last Spot, so about Now -
I'm thinking Oh Load My Me .

[1project2many]

No catch can for overflow means run coolant level 1" to 1.5" low.

Heater valve in my truck is simple shut off.

[Port&PolishMan]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

No catch can for overflow means run coolant level 1" to 1.5" low.

Heater valve in my truck is simple shut off.

Good to Hear , Thanks I was thinking maybe I did something, by Turning it Off
Like Choking the Circulation . . just want to make sure ..

It did look High , I took out about 1 Pint and it is Open to the Ground ..

Can't afford to do a Billet Catch Can right now ..

Maybe a Simple Old Bag ..

[dsraven]

if you are worried about the thermostat maybe just replace it. use a gm part though. the aftermarket ones have given me a lot of trouble until I just gave up on them and use OEM. use coolant as well instead of water,if that is what is in there. coolant has anti corrosion properties and also check the rad cap and rad spigot for wear.

[_Ogre]

no billet puke can needed unless your going to use billet
i welded up my own puke tank out of a 12'' piece of 3'' exhaust tubing

(photobucket down again or i'd post a pic)

[_Ogre]

[mr48chev]

I have to go with the concept that you filled the radiator too full and didn't leave room for expansion. Even those of us who have driven rigs with this system all our lives do it once in a while even though we learned to leave expansion room in the radiator tank when we first learned to check things under the hood.

I'd leave about half the height of the tank empty for expansion and maybe a tad more than that. You might have to play with it a bit to find that point that it is happy at and doesn't puke out any coolant.

[Port&PolishMan]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

That Looks Real Good , You Polished it - 2 Thumbs Up .

It must have been High , Yes as I already stated ..

Anyhow so after a lot more Checking 1954 1 Ton Over More
and getting It Road Ready _ Before just Charging down the road .

Before I took it out I also had to Clean Lightly Sand
Inside of Air Cleaner as some Paint inside that just wasn't Holding and the Engine Apparently
has been Devouring Huge Chunks of Paint !!

Poor Prep over Old Galv Dip . . , so I cleaned it and Tested Brake Paint
which is Chemical Stable - also has a Self Etching - Bonding Agent , with
Added High Temp . Plus Ceramic

Finally took it out for a 20 miles Hike to get Fuel and see how things
were ..

1. Still Dogged Axle as discussed in other thread. , but
Axle is Staying Put - Holding after I cleaned Replaced into Proper Position and Re-torqued !

2. Adding Fuel to Tank is Very Slow - Vent can't be Correct ?

3. No Shocks or Leaf Spring Holders - Like ( Ranhco's Spring Clamps ).

4. Do You Guys Run wheel weight on ?
$200.00 Tires ?

5. Cooling Temp Held - put I have to Wonder about just using
Electrical Fan - set to 190 Degrees then runs to 185 Degree ..

6. This is Cooling - ( REAL WORLD - TEMPS ) during this Light Use 20 Mile Hike on a Cool Day Moved from 180 - to - 195 Mostly with Heater Circulation On

Heater Circulation Off : Temps moved to 200 - 210 Degrees on Slight Hill.
Again in Traffic - Only 2 Lights - Temps Hit 215 .

This is Looking more and more like Pusher needed or
Slim Flex 15-16" - as also need to Run in much warmer Temps and
Hauling a Load - Up Step Hills .

To Other's whom have Commented about Stat's -
I like the Robert Shaws - Power Pill , as Precision Temp Control is more Important to Keep Motor Even and Steady - then going through - Temps Swings of 30 Degrees , over and over , and over . VS
just 1 once when Motor Starts . Hence - Precision Temp Control
MY 5 Cents on Cooling .

[mr48chev]

Man I just got a headache trying to read that mess and sort it out.

Price of tires doesn't have a thing to do with needing weights to balance them if they are out of balance. Some brands balance better than others as a norm but the bigger the tire and the bigger the truck tire the more weight they usually need to balance them.


On the fan what have you got for a fan now? Not enough air flowing though the radiator pulling a hill or in slow traffic may cause a temp rise. If the temp dropped right back down after you started down the other side it may be pretty close to normal though.

And what radiator do you have? Because there is such a difference in temp when the heater is on the radiator may not have enough capacity or it may be clogged up a bit of it is the old one.

The heater is actually just a small auxiliary radiator with it's own fan and having one cools the engine down like that is normal but I wouldn't think the air temp was hot enough to cause a rapid rise in temperature yet.

From experience slim flex fans just flat don't pull enough air. This one is/was on my 48 and it won't move enough air to write home about.

[Port&PolishMan]

Let Me do a Quick Summary - for those that Actually Read everything ..

1. Electric Fan Only
2. Puking Coolant .. after I Turned Off the Heater Control Valve .
3. Too Many Problems to List them all , but 1 Dogged Axle 1 Ton Axle and Tires Not
4. Going with Percision Stat.
5. Really - Rancho - Leaf Spring Clamps - Might COOL OFF MY HEAD !
about to Go Off on the this Rigging ..Stuff . .
6. Sticking with Precision - Please excuse My Poor Typing .
7. Lot of Good Work , so I have to Excuse the Other Stuff - I Guess ..

OK I was dong My Taxes @ same Time an I have to Pay - I'm Retired - Ouch ..