Just sprayed Epoxy primer, what next?

[xbanone]

This is not my first paint, but it's the first time I've used Epoxy primer. I am painting a replacement rear stepside fender on my '76 GMC. I am using Nason products.

I just sprayed 2 coats of 491-16 Ful-poxy on the fender. What comes next before the basecoat. They offer several different primers, but I need to know what works best with the Epoxy, urathane 2k or primer surfacer?

Here is a link to Nason's products:
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...uct/nason.html

Thanks for the help and I will show off some pics as soon as I can get some color on.

Brady

[65fleet]

i use nason stuff very regularly...

their 2k builds very nicely and is easy sanding.. if that epoxy sits for too long your gona need to scuff it up before the 2k... you can put 2k right over it if it had just been sprayed... ofcourse always alllow it to flash.

id personally follow that epoxy up with a couple coats of 2k block with 180.. throw a couple more coats on it wetsand with with 500 and PAINT!

thats just me though theirs more the 1 way to skin an oppossum

[xbanone]

I had a couple runs, so I have to wait 24 hours before I sand the Epoxy. I don't think I have ever ran primer, but this epoxy is much thinner than anything I have ever sprayed.

[65fleet]

yeah that nason epoxy mixes 1:1 so itl run in a hurry....

i like nason epoxy but its no fun to sand itl clog the paper in a hurry .. well come to think of it.. nothings really " fun " to sand

[xbanone]

What is the advantage of a urathane 2k primer over a standard primer surfacer?

[65fleet]

ive always thought they were one in the same???

someone please correct me if im wrong.

[Mike 85]

Any epoxy needs 24 hr to sand without clogging the paper really. I use to use Nason and it sands "ok" up to a week after spraying,After a month or more,it becomes concrete and 80 does well to even cut it.Last job I did was a dragster with 17 seperate body panels and I shot 2 coats and blocked with 80,did minor filler work on dings and some E-coat FiberTech for the nose glass repair and 1 coat of epoxy to seal it and Nason 2K primer to finish blocking it for paint.
Guide coat and block with 80 initally to SEE what you have and do your bodywork and filler,block it out and spray another 2 coats and reguide and block with 180.You can either finish sand with 4-600 wet depending on what kind of paint your using if it's "straight" or spray your 2K primer and finish it out. I get confused with this whole "prime,surfacer" deal too.
You basically have 2 kinds of 2K primer. Regular 2K primer and High Build 2K.
It's a mix bag with primers and you basically just have to read the tech sheet on each product as to what exactly all it can do.
Some are just primer.Some are high build,Some can be reduced and used as a sealer. Insanity at it's best and confusing as anything in the paint world.
Main reason I stick with epoxy anymore. I have 1 product and can do about anything I like with it from start to finish.

[Mike 85]

IMO,You'll find the "surfacers" are the high build and close to polyester style primers.
The "advantage" with poly's or epoxy is shrinkage.
Any "2K primer or surfacer" WILL shrink down and what you thought was a slick sanded surface will show some scratches later on if done too quickly.
Epoxy and Poly's shrink but nothing compaired to 2K pluss they are more solvent resistant so scratch swelling is minimal and usually,what you spray is what you end up with.

[xbanone]

These are the primers offerd by Nason, I you look at the descripton in the tech sheets, they pretty much say the same thing
Product Data Sheets - Primer Surfacers

Nason® Ful-Fil 421-08™ (Gray) & 421-09™ (Red) Primer-Surfacer Acrylic
Ful-Thane® Sentry 421-15™ 2K Catalyzed Primer-Surfacer
Nason® SelectPrime 421-17™ / 421-19™ 2K Urethane Prime
Nason® SelectPrime 421-18™ 2.1 VOC Primer
Nason® SelectPrime 421-20™ Primer-Surfacer
Nason® SelectPrime 421-21™ 2K Urethane Primer (2.1 VOC)
Nason® SelectPrime 421-23™ Gray Acrylic Primer-Surfacer
Nason® 421-30™ Universal Fast Dry Primer-Surfacer Pastel Gray
Nason® 470-04™ Gray High-Build Water Borne Primer-Surfacer

[65fleet]

hmmm yeah look to be basically the same... all i can say is stay away from the laquer primers nason or any one has.... theirs a reason it was replaced

[xbanone]

Thanks guys for the advice. I plan on the Urethane 2k but will ask the paint guy and make sure it will work as a high build primer. I have used the Arcrylic Primer in the past on other paint jobs and really liked it. This whole epoxy thing is new to me but I think it we become a standard in my processes.

Thanks again
Brady

[Mike 85]

I went out and looked to see what I have left in Nason and it's the 421-19.
Good all around primer and it builds nice for about anything you'd want primer wise. If you really need to lay it on thick,I would go polyester primer. It's a much better product for this and you can use either Evercoat or Nason. The E-Coat is cheaper,about 50 bucks compaired to Nason which is around 80.

[xbanone]

I may get the Evercoat then, I know Southern Polyurethanes are thought highly of around here. I may go that way next time on the Epoxyprimer. Thanks

[Mike 85]

SPI is all I use anymore for primers & clears.
Excellent products and pricing is exceptional.
Then you get Barry who is just great and only a phone call away when it's going sideways on ya.

[xbanone]

I went to get some 2k from Nason but they were out of activator. So, I bought a gallon of Evercoat featherfill instead. I don't know what you guys are paying for this stuff but it is expensive around here. I sanded the epoxy with 180 and applied the featherfill. It looks good and I think it's gonna turn out great.

On a side note, I talked with the paint guy today and it turns out they carry Southern Polyurethanes. So for my next job I will used that.