64' K10 Project Long Bed

[RANDY COX]

Les I see your moving right along, I like your garage BTW looks like plenty of room. I need to go back and add my front sway bar my frame is a 70 frame and someone added it to mine also they used the front factory brackets from a later frame and used some steel plate that bolted to the bracket then the sway bar mounted to the flat plate not sure why it didn't line up and mount directly but it was on there like that when I got it...Not even really sure that I'll even need it. with added front springs in the front I don't think it's gonna give or sway too much...

[aotte1]

John,

Thanks for sharing your knowledge on TIG welding. I am totally new to this, however, find it very satisfying. Taking my time. Now with a few hours of welding on sheetmetal, can see why the .035 filler rod has advantages, much less filler rod weld build-up and less heat needed. I will order some from local welding store, they do not stock it. I got a few pieces from Steve my welder friend/professional.

One other question, from my reading here, have the impression that the K10 4x4s from 1963 to '87 pretty much have the same front suspension geometry in reference to the frame. Do you agree. Question is asked, as I plan to locate 1978 front sway bar in same location to '64 frame, as it was in '78.

Les

[aotte1]

Randy,

No expert on adding factory front sway bar/axle from K10 truck, subs from the 70s and 80s. Several builds here show the front cross member from 4x4 truck that came with sway bar, being a pretty much, bolt in for 67 to 72 trucks. ( from what I have read here)

Are '73 to 87 4x4s pretty common in yards near you, they are here, $ 125 gets the whole axle assembly/suspension/steering set-up. Wish we were closer, have a whole 83' set-up, used to plan 64', it has 3.42 gears. Would think adding the newer cross member would be easy way to go, along with assuring correct geometry.

Les

[aotte1]

Some planning photos for mounting 1978 front sway bar, forward brackets.

The front cross member on '64 and newer 70s and 80s are designed quite a bit different. '64 pretty much sits in the frame vertical and 70s/80s sits at an angle and is thicker steel ( note: they also have longer front springs). Photos 2 and 3 below show the vertical cross member. Photo 5 shows the '78 cross member with an angle to it.

Photo 1 - of brackets removed from 1978 cross member.

Photo 2 - of area on frame and cross member where bracket would be mounted.

Photo 3 - similar to photo 2

Photo 4 - shows general area where brackets would be mounted, they will need to be modified so that they will slide into the frame. Using band saw to make slots, for test fitting.

Photo 5 - shows the 1978 cross member with forward brackets riveted on, sitting on top of the '64 frame, in front of cross member. As installed it would be tilted forward some at the top.

[aotte1]

Next step is adding the factory sway bar as part of the 1978 Dana 44 front axle swap into the 1964 K10. Looking at how to attach the front of the bar to the existing cross member, using the brackets from the '78 K10. ( do not want to change out the cross member) Next I detached the 1978 front sway bar brackets from that cross member. Then held them on the 1964 frame cross member, and can see how they could be made to fit. Can see how they may fit with modification and addition of small brace.

Also, need to determine what distance to position the bar from the frame for proper operation while driving. My first measurement is the distance from bottom of top frame rail to bracket bottom that attaches the front of the bar to the frame.

This measurement on the '78 frame is 6 inches.

Thinking a lot of the front end geometry is similar on '63 to '87 truck. ( need to confirm this) Therefor plan to use the 6" measurement to locate the height of where the brackets is attached on the 64 frame cross member.

The photo shows the 6 inches measurement on the '64 frame with the '78 front cross member.

With the position of bar, can then work backwards as to where the brackets need to be attached on the cross member.

Les

[RANDY COX]

making progress..

[aotte1]

Randy,

Thanks for the complement. My friend John is helping me make a lot of progress.

Les

[aotte1]

Started making the two straps to complete the bracket for adding sway bar from '78.

Cut them 5 inches long from 1" x 1/4" stock. Drilled a 3/8 hole that allows it to be bolted to the '78 bracket. That is all doing for now, will bend them to fit to the cross member later, once engine is removed and can heat to make bend easily.
Then will weld bar to bracket and finish to look part of bracket. Photos of bars to be finished below.

[aotte1]

Cab Roll Around Stand

Below are photos of the roll around cab stand. Made it simple, with available materials to just carry the cab, along with possible transport/use for painting. Will provide dimensions once I know it all works. Looked at other designs here on the board and came up with this one.

[aotte1]

Making cab lift bar out of tube to use with engine hoist for removing cab. It is a tube that will lift cab in the door opening. Today made a "U" shaped bar out of flat bar ( heated it red hot, viced it, and hammer it into a "U"). It will be welded to the tube that lifts the cab, and attached/bolted to the end of engine hoist. Not sure yet what side of tube it will be welded to, thinking the wide side???? Photos below. The first photo shows the "U" shaped bar attached to the end engine hoist. The last photo shows angle iron - 3/4" , that I am thinking of welding/bolting on ends of bar to help hold cab in-place at the door jam. I got the idea for this from other threads - thanks for sharing your work.

Les

[RANDY COX]

Looking good I like the cab lifter...

[aotte1]

Randy,

Thanks for the complement, hope not too much longer and it is all apart. Next day or so will be welding up holes in the cab, there are quite a few to be fixed. Will need another tank of argon to get them all sewed up.

Will get the measurement on the cab lifter and post.

Les

[aotte1]

Measurements On Cab Lift Bar and Cab Stand

The cab lift bar is 2" X 4" tube 66"s long, a little extra strong, material I had. The 3/4" angle iron on the ends are 18"s long and welded to the tube ( with tube centered in door opening - this lifted cab level). They are spaced 57 1/2"s apart centered on the tube at the engine hoist lift point. These are approximate dimensions for this cab, kind of a material list and how it was done.

Cab stand frame dimensions: the stands/towers heights to match cab, 24 1/2" for front and 27 1/2" for rear. ( I did my rear stands at 24 1/2" and added a 3" block of wood). The bolt spacing in front is 40 1/2" wide and 42" wide in rear ( the rear bolts are 1/2 by 5 1/2" long ). The bolt spacing front to back is 41 1/2". Used 4"x6" plates on top of the stands to move the bolt holes away from stands. The above dimensions are for location of bolt holes. The stands are about 2 inches away from bolt holes. The outside dimensions of stands are 40" wide and 48" long, and placement of top plates meets the bolt location need.

[61K10]

Looking good! I hope you get your steel free or cheap to build all your fixtures.

[aotte1]

61K10,

Thanks for the complement, I built it strong for transport of the cab to get cleaned, primed, and to paint shop. Do have source for some older steel at wholesale prices.

Les

[aotte1]

Follow-up on, Borgeson collapsible steering shaft and two universal joints

Some photos of the conversion completed. By using double universal joints, the steering column can be located correctly in the firewall. The new 4x4 steering gear box center line is further away from the frame, however, the universals correct for this. Also really like eliminating rag joint as it makes the steering tighter

[aotte1]

Adding Power Steering Adapter Plate to 1964 K10

This is a follow-up to earlier posts on adding Captain Fab's adapter plate to an original 1964 K10, this post provides more detailed information/photos on its location on the frame. This plate location looks to retain the original 1983 K10 steering geometry that the parts came from to complete this conversion. Earlier post detail parts used along with process for locating adapter plate based on duplicating '83 steering geometry. However, it has not been road tested yet.

[aotte1]

A few more photos, that show location, now that taking it apart to go have it all cleaned soon. The next set of photos shows measurements from center of bolt hole for attaching steering gear box.
Posting lots of photos hoping some will help show where it is located on frame. If you need more infor or photos let me know.
The adapter plate is only tach welded for now, will finish welding once frame is disassembled.

Note: In the first and second photo you will see on the bottom of the frame, front sway bar brackets from the 1983 K10, that are being added along with power steering. The sway bar brackets will be bolted to the frame as it is disassembled, to give access for drilling bolt holes.

Note: This steering gear box is 3 1/4 turns lock to lock, it should be the same from '83 to '78, maybe more years. Those are the only two year boxes I have tested.

[61K10]

lines don't look org. did the hoses go through the frame? looks like they were split at one time.

[aotte1]

61K10,

Will check tomorrow and get back to you, the brake lines were changed some, as a hydraulic emergency brake was added at some time.

Les

[aotte1]

Both front brake hoses metal ends fit to the frame, held in place by the typical "U" shaped clip on right side. Left side will go back and look to see how the block attached to it. First photo is left side and second is right side and also shows the spring and clip that holds hose in certain position.

The third photo shows the hydraulic emergency brake that was added.

Agree some of the brake lines look like they were replaced.

Les

[aotte1]

Looked at the "60-66 chevy/GMC Truck Factory Assembly Instruction Manual" , the blocks/ tee connectors and unions look correct and at location shown from preliminary review. The front hose/ tee connectors/ line looks as shown.

The forward part of line to rear looks like it has an additional line added for the hyd emergency brake.

[61K10]

now i see why the mod. my hoses go through the frame, then a thin nut screwed on (locks the hose in the frame) then cooper washer--block c/washer--special bolt through block screwed into brake hose. I will be changing my brake lines for the disc and master cyl.

[aotte1]

61K10,

Yes that sounds like mine too. You going to bigger dia. brake lines for the front disc brakes, I think we need to.

Have not got that far with this conversion. Initial thinking is to go with brake line size Chevy used on trucks with the JB5 brake option package, along with master cylinder with similar bore. The JB5 truck brake option was an outstanding braking package, that still compares well to current braking packages per member Keith. Need to compare rear wheel cylinder bore diameter too.

Les

[aotte1]

Rear Leaf Spring Shackle Removal

Removing the rear springs:
(Pretreated the areas to be removed for a couple of days with Kroal)
- first removed all the lubrication fittings,
- Locking bolt removal, first remove lock washer and nut, then use brass drift and hammer, to drive locking bolt out, followed by alignment punch. One moderate blow released it. Removed both upper and lower locking bolts now while still attached to frame. Plan to take both pins out for cleaning and checking bushings.
- shackle pin was driven out from inside with drift and hammer, it came out pretty easy, moderate force started it and a few more blows had it half out. Leaving them in a little for now, until frame is loaded on trailer for cleaning.

The five photos below show the locking bolt removal, along with bolts removed. First photo show shackle are before starting. Photo two shows the bolt with nut and washer removed before removal. Photo three and four shows tools used ( the alignment punch has a different piece of metal stuck on it).

Les