Ignition switch wiring

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by DAN66

Are all these wires the same gauge of wire?

No Dan, They carry different amounts of current. Check the ignition switches in my post 2 and LM 65's in post in 13

Thank's Elf always glad to help.

[laynrockers]

hoping to bring this back, i have a specific question. I am sure the answer in here in this thread but i can confirm.

What do i connect the ground on the ignition switch to? when i brough my truck neither my ground nor my ACC are wired to anything. So far though everything works ok. I am chasing down a slow battery drain which is what lead me to this. Would appreciate the help guys!!

Kris

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by laynrockers

hoping to bring this back, i have a specific question. I am sure the answer in here in this thread but i can confirm.

What do i connect the ground on the ignition switch to? when i brough my truck neither my ground nor my ACC are wired to anything. So far though everything works ok. I am chasing down a slow battery drain which is what lead me to this. Would appreciate the help guys!!

Kris

The 1966 trucks did not have a black wire or a brown wire on the key switch nor did they have an ACC terminal. I suspect that you have a key from a later model like a 68 or 69 which did have the aCC terminal. This is why you probably have not noticed any problem.

The brown wire on the ACC terminal on those trucks feeds power to the fuse panel for the turn signal circuit.Yours is fed by the pink wire for the ignition.

The black wire on the 68 or newer trucks was a ground wire from the key switch to the dash cluster and grounded the cluster lights for the brake and the temperature lights. It would ground these lights when the starter was engaged to test the bulbs. The lights were hot on the positive side from the fuse panel when the key was on and the sending wires from the brake and temperature senders were grounded by the key switch in the start position to complete the circuits and test the bulbs.
I'll be glad to post the wiring diagrams for them if you want.

If you have a small drain on the battery then try taking the negative cable off and connect a test light or multimeter between the end of the cable and the battery negative terminal. If you have a key off drain then pull the alternator wiring plug then the voltage regulator plug then the horn relay plug and watch for the light to go out or the meter to go to .002.

In your case if your horn relay is on the radiator support then disconnect the wires. It's possible that you have a ground wire shorting in the steering column that activates the horn relay. If the horn relay was stuck the horn would blow unless it was disconnected. A lot of guys think that unplugging the horn stops the drain but the relay is still drawing current.

[EVILSTANK]

Originally Posted by motornut

if the relay is on the starter you shouldn't have the second (burntish)wire there.but where does it go?

When you wired in the ignition switch connector from lmc, where the wires on the new connector a smaller gauge than the wiring that's under the dash going to your old switch? I have the same issue as you, ordered the new switch connecter from lmc for the new ignition switch but the wires on it are smaller than the wires under my dash.

[EVILSTANK]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

All my research shows this as the ignition switch, is this what it should look like?

When you wired in the ignition switch connector from lmc, where the wires on the new connector a smaller gauge than the wiring that's under the dash going to your old switch? I have the same issue as you, ordered the new switch connecter from lmc for the new ignition switch but the wires on it are smaller than the wires under my dash