2010 camero wheels for ad

[mikem1959]

can I make these wheels work on my 51 3100 with a s-10 frame,or stock frame.if so how?,,,,thanx for any advice...2010 camero 5 spoke mag..(2) 20x8 5x120mm Offset +35mm Machined w/Black Replica Wheels
(2) 20X9 5X120mm Offset +40mm Machined w/Black Replica Wheels

[mr48chev]

I'm completely lost when they start throwing out metric measurements on things like that so I'm no help there.

If you are absolutely bent on running those wheels and corresponding tires you would be the long way from the first guy who built a custom vehicle around his choice of rims and tires.

The rears aren't much of a problem as you just need the right width of axle wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface to set the wheels in the fenders with the right amount of clearance.

The front may be more of and issue as along with clearing the fender lips you need to clear on the inside so the tires don't rub on turns.

Youngrodder (sp) is our go to guy for getting the big rims on AD trucks to look right and maybe we can wake him up and get his input.

[mikem1959]

thank you mr48chev for your insights,i am like you and metrics through me off.I hate chevy going that way.here are pics of wheels I think they are bad as hell.

[N.T.Q]

the only way they will work on s10 chassis is with S10 to Camaro wheel adapters, yes they will bolt right on but there will be some play and if the lugs come a little lose it can snap off lug nuts due to the Camaro being 120.0mm and s10 being 120.7mm

[Nev68]

This is a common issue for us in Australia.
We have Holden models like HQ (1971 to 1974), HJ (1974 - 76) etc. etc. and these models had 5 x 4 3/4" PCD (120.65 mm). This is the same as other US GM vehicles like 1968 Camaro (e.g. I can swap wheels from HQ Holden to my 68 Camaro)

Then in around 1978 Holden changed to metric PCD so the PCD went to 120 mm (difference of 0.65 mm which I think is 1/32") which doesn't seem much but........

You can "make" the wheels fit metric wheels fit the imperial stud pattern but it is not recommended as it can put stress on the studs and they can break.

[joedoh]

its easy to get backspace from offset:

first, convert mm to inches by dividing by 25.4, so a 30mm offset is 30/25.4= 1.18" or roughly 1 3/16".

offset is measured from the wheel center, +30mm means the wheel mounting surface is 1 3/16" outboard (towards the wheel face) of the actual center of the wheel. if it were -30mm offset, the wheel mounting surface would be 1 3/16" inboard (towards the wheel inside lip) from the actual center of the wheel.

offset does not take into account the wheel mounting lips, which add 1/2" to each side of the wheel. An 8" wide wheel will actually measure about 9 inches wide with a tape on the outside lips. Its important to note this because backspacing is the distance from the rear lip to the wheel mounting surface, so you must take half the wheel width and add 1/2" to it, then add the offset to find the backspace. with your 20x8 +30mm wheel as an example, 8/2 + 1/2" + 1 3/16 = 5 11/16" backspace. Thats a high positive offset wheel, so it will sit inboard a bit.

if you want to know what fits your truck, familiarize yourself with FRONTSPACE, and you will never make a mistake. Frontspace is the measurement from the wheel mounting surface to the front lip of the wheel. Hang a plumb bob (a nut tied to string will work) from inside your fender where you know a wheel will contact, and measure from the wheel mounting surface of your brake to that string. that is your maximum frontspace (without accounting for tire bulge). use it to find the minimum backspace on any wheel by adding the inch (8 inch wheel =9 inches) and subtracting the front space, viola! you have the minimum backspacing required.

[mikem1959]

thanx joedoh and all other repliers for your help...happy new year to all...mike

[youngrodder]

To be honest I would hit up Stockish. Or go through his build thread. He already had these wheels on a AD truck. It was recently put up on the for sale section.

Here is the adhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/c...chassis&cat=10

Marc

[mr48chev]

The guys are right in that if the bolt circle is off even a little you have to correct that issue or you run a serious chance of having the lug bolts break off as several stated.

That could be as simple as buying the correct adapter/spacers to bolt the wheels to the S-10 hubs and correct the tread width at the same time.

Or if you are willing to spend the bucks you could have a suspension builder build a front suspension that used the Camaro hubs or hubs with that exact bolt pattern and use a corresponding rear axle. Any time a guys asks about running a late model factory rim and or an S-10 chassis that tells me that he either doesn't want to spend much money, doesn't have much money to spend or hasn't explored options. Right now I'd say you are doing the wise thing and exploring options before spending money. Usually someone on here can come up with a simple and safe fix for things like this that works and isn't a cobbled up farm boy mess.