POR-15 Opinions

[toolboxchev]

That Mastercoat product seem to be a good value, I would like to know how well it holds up in everyday conditions over time.

[drewbert41]

Should you use a respirator when brushing on?

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by drewbert41

Should you use a respirator when brushing on?

Yes. If you can smell it, your lungs are feeling it.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by tucker69

I have been using POR for years...if installed correctly it is the closest thing to powdercoating. I like to roll mine on with foam roller...there are several techniques to application that help in the outcome of your project. keep in mind por actually adheres to rust better than it does to cleaned metal. something to do with the chemical reaction..anyway, I like por and it works great with a harded than paint finish...in my opinion.

That bolded makes me a little nervous. I've bought the Master Series, and I've heard it's similar to POR15. I don't have any rust, or no more than light surface rust. Thoughts?

Say Mr. SpecialK, what grit was your final sanding on the metal surface, for that Master Series? They suggest 80 grit. Seems a little rough.

Other: Definitely wear a respirator to brush on. If you spray it, or as someone else said paint in general, always a respirator until the fumes clear.

[9teen69]

Lockdoc nailed it. Also use eye/face pro or you'll have black paint spots on your face for a week Cover floor...doesn't come off concrete unless you use a chisel

[drewbert41]

Has anyone ever POR15'd their rusty truck bed floor?

[leddzepp]

POR works when applied directly to rust...but who wants scale and a "lumpy" finished result? Strip it down and use the metal ready prep which GRX mentioned above. It leaves a phosphorus coating, seals the surface, and gives the POR something to grab. The marine clean is by far the best degreaser I have ever used, it will put simple green, purple power, and gasoline to shame when it comes to removing caked on grease. I suspect it is bilge cleaner, as it's name suggests, and can be bought for less as such.

[drewbert41]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

POR works when applied directly to rust...but who wants scale and a "lumpy" finished result? Strip it down and use the metal ready prep which GRX mentioned above. It leaves a phosphorus coating, seals the surface, and gives the POR something to grab. The marine clean is by far the best degreaser I have ever used, it will put simple green, purple power, and gasoline to shame when it comes to removing caked on grease. I suspect it is bilge cleaner, as it's name suggests, and can be bought for less as such.

Yeah, my bed has some rust holes in it. Not really worth stripping. If I had that nice of bed I would go Line-X

[leddzepp]

If you purchased master series, roll with it. You can't go wrong with it from what I've read, I've used POR for 20 years and can only relay personal experience with it. I've sourced it locally from the same vendor. They are probably the same thing.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

That Mastercoat product seem to be a good value, I would like to know how well it holds up in everyday conditions over time.

It is used to re-paint hiway bridges. The owner was a chemist for POR-15, but when they cheapened the formula he quit and started this company to produce a superior product. He's not the biggest well know one, he's the best.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Say Mr. SpecialK, what grit was your final sanding on the metal surface, for that Master Series? They suggest 80 grit. Seems a little rough.

nothing is too rough. These products are designed to coat over rusted/pitted metal, is self leveling, and will actually help smooth such surfaces. I use it on sandblasted metal and it's smooth as glass, so scuff marks from coarse paper is no issue

[plastercracker]

learn something new everyday . never herd of master coat. sounds like good stuff. i have been using chassis saver for years. and i know por 15 and chassis saver has no uv protection. so in a bed it will dull out thru the years.

[Shaky]

UV is a consideration. I did the back window on a Pontiac and the areas where the sun could hit it did not fare well. Pay attention to POR's instructions on this. It must be top coated.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Good information and thanks. Looked up the Master Coat. Another Master Series product, "similar" to POR15 Rust Preventing. I bought the Master Series primer and top coat. May not need the Master Coat, pending fender/cowl removal.

[67 chevelle]

POR is great stuff for rusty metal , if you have cleaned it already ,and its smooth,or will be exposed to direct sunlight ,, Id use mothane

[Zeroman]

I had heard of drilling the holes in the lid and using sheet metal screw to seal them, but the instructions say not to shake the paint but to stir it so as not to cause air bubbles. How do you mix it up when all you can do in pour it through the holes?

Am I missing something?

[RustyBucket]

I shake the snot out of it. It pours out a little bubbly. I smear it on with those cheapy sponge brushes and it smoothes out ok. I'm not looking for a deep lustrous shine.. JK, it looks ok, the bubbles go away as it dries. I've never applied it to a big flat area. I use it on little brackets & stuff I make or modify.

I laughed when I saw that cdowns had posted almost the same thing I did at pretty much the same time yesterday. Florida thing I guess.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Something like $100 gets you two quarts of Master Series primer and one quart of satin black top coat. They say that will cover the chassis. Two coats primer, one top coat. You don't even have to top coat, if you like silver or gray. I think it's silver.

[Clavo106]

Im A big believer in the POR-15. its expensive but it will last u a very long time threw out the elements.. We & I used it for count less thing in Alaska, the ship guys like it to.. when your paying big buck for thousands of dollars of equipment. its good to have a product that works...

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by drewbert41

has anyone ever por15'd their rusty truck bed floor?

i've used it in the truck bed but because the bed was open to sunlight it had a shorter lifespan due to the ultraviloet exposure

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Zeroman

I had heard of drilling the holes in the lid and using sheet metal screw to seal them, but the instructions say not to shake the paint but to stir it so as not to cause air bubbles. How do you mix it up when all you can do in pour it through the holes?

Am I missing something?

1- Bubbles won't pass through the hole

2- If they did the strainer will get them

[GR8-68]

I know, this is an old thread. Locdoc hit the nail on the head but I bought my gallon of por15 in 09 and it is still good. The lid has never been popped, I punched two holes in the lid as soon as I started using it and run two metal roofing screws in the holes, they are a 1/4" driver head with a rubber washer on them that seals. And with todays impact drivers it is not an issue getting them back out.

[Crabass]

Nothing wrong with reviving old threads, they often contain gems of wisdom that might otherwise be overlooked by members later to the forum.

I use a product called Trailercoat, discovered it back in the late '80's searching for something to use on a boat trailer regularly dunked in saltwater. The axle had gotten very rusty. I used a combination scraper/wirebrush to knock the loose stuff off and gave it two coats. After eight years of saltwater and salt sea air exposure it finally started to discolor a little here and there. Dries tough and hard. A bit expensive (last one I bought was about $35 /quart) but it has proven itself to me (and a number of others I've recommended it to). The only "drawback" I can see is that it is silver colored, but it does lend itself to topcoating.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/product.asp?id=96

I tried POR 15 once and was ultimately disappointed. Probably didn't jump though all the hoops it requires, but did use it on a very clean, well prepped surface-----most rattle can paint would have lasted longer, in my judgement. Very little exposure to the elements, always garaged, and it eventually cracked and peeled. I did not use any primer under it.

[sboris]

Well thought I would give an update on my por-15 that's been in use now for over 2 years. I applied 2 coats to the underside of my wheel tubs. I live on 4 mi of gravel, that's 8 mi every time I drive it. This stuff is holding up real well. Not chipping, flaking, or peeling. And my tires are rock throwing sonsabiches.
While there are some comparable products as mentioned out there, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I would buy this all day long.
I also did inside and out on my cab floor after repairs. Didn't discover this though, till long after my chassis was done. Future project maybe..
Hope this helps someone...

[basketcase]

Since POR-15 doesn't have UV protection is it necessary to top coat it on frames, axles or trailing arms? They are out of the direct sun light.

Tom