47-55.1 alternator / radiator clearance problems

[CoachH]

I'm doing a '54 chevy S10 swap and put a 350 in it with a long water pump. Now I have a clearance issue with the alternator that currently mounts on the passenger side with the bottom radiator hose location. Can the alternator be mounted on the drivers side, with the power steering pump? Or does anyone have other ideas on how to solve this without switching to a short water pump? There is only 2 inches of clearance in the picture between the alternator and the radiator. We are not putting air conditioning in it by the way so no compressor will be mounted.

[mr48chev]

I'm still trying to figure out what is wrong with that picture and most of it relates to the radiator rather than the alternator.
Is the radiator clearly designed for an S-10 swap or is it a universal cross flow or ??????????

Get some better photos from different angles and I'd bet that when Joedoe wakes up from his Sunday nap he will explain what you need to do to make it work.

[joedoh]

sorry, I dont have any advice, I use 4.3 V6 almost exclusively and I dont use the speedway rad because of that angled lower neck that points at the crank pulley. my guess is that they use the same end tank as they would on a much wider radiator, and dont adjust the lower neck to point outboard instead of inboard.

the s10 swap guys I have seen with this problem usually take it to an aluminum welder and have it re-angled the other direction.

I wasnt sunday (g)napping, I was picking up parts for another AD project!

[mr48chev]

Well I do believe you did give him the correct answer = Angled neck on the Speedway radiator.

Is that another one of those lowbuck Speedway dirt track pieces?

This one ? https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...tors,3557.html

[CoachH]

I didnt realize the Speedway motors radiator was a bad choice. I've been following the S10 swap post on this site (which has been really helpful as this is my first project) and that is what was listed there too. But you both are exactly right with the problem. The lower neck points inside and runs right into where the alternator mounts. It does appear that if it was cut, rotated and welded back on that it would fit. But I was a little worried we would pay for that and find out we still have a clearance problem.

Anyone know of a radiator that is made for these S10 swaps that would fit better? I ran across this site (http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S..._Long_Pump.htm) which led me to think moving that alternator might be an option.

Just looking into all possible solution.

Thanks for the input. This forum has been a huge help getting us closer to seeing this truck back on the road.

[joedoh]

I built a 41 that needed a small rad and found a 19x21 on ebay that had a straight lower neck, even had a trans cooler which is a drawback to the speedway rad. it fit in the trimmed core support of the 41 better than the 19x22 "would havent". do a search for 19x21 aluminum radiator and you could find it, it was $135 back then, more expensive than the speedway but didnt need an external trans cooler.

[mr48chev]

Speedway sells several radiators that are similar. That one is designed to set low in circle track car chassis where you need that angled lower outlet. It is cheap because circle track guys use up a lot of them.

It would probably cost as much to have someone cut the outlet off, trim it straight and tig weld it back on straight as it would to buy a different radiator.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

That one is designed to set low in circle track car chassis where you need that angled lower outlet.

I dont care how low you mount it, the lower outlet on that rad points at the crank pulley. you need a double jog "s" bend to get it back over to the water pump outlet.

the width is the issue, if it were wider, like 36" wide instead of 22", it would point straight at the water pump. but how narrow it is makes it point at the crank pulley. my theory is that they use the same end tank on different cores and that is how the price stays low. if they used a unique end tank on that narrow core, it would easily cost twice as much.

I looked on ebay for that 19x21 and the seller isnt around any more, nor can I find another.

[mr48chev]

It appears that you are right on the use of the same end tank though that line. It looks like they have a pick a width thing going on that design

All-aluminum, furnace-brazed construction
No cheap epoxy glue or crimped in gaskets
Maximum amount of fins per inch allows greater heat transfer
Billet filler necks
Available in 22", 24", 26", 28", or 31" widths (measurements include tanks)
Aluminum Fan Shroud Kits available:

[mr48chev]

I went snooping on the S-10 swap page and found the thread that Skymags did on mounting the radiator. It looks like he used the serpentine belt system that puts the alternator on the other side of the engine. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632686

It also looks like the bottom of his radiator sits right on the level of the frame horns. I can't tell where you have yours placed.

It also may be that his engine is sitting higher in the chassis than yours is.

I'm thinking that there is an aftermarket "tight fit" bracket that moves the alternator up and in a bit for use in cars like Model A street rods with 350's in them.

Here, check this one. It may get the job done as it raises the alternator straight up and slightly in. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/part...make/chevrolet

Compare the difference in the space between the alternator and the pump inlet in the photo and your setup to see if it is enough to make a difference.

[CoachH]

Thanks a bunch! I'll check that mount out. That might work out good.

[Kevin Mac]

If it comes to having to cut and weld the neck back on, I would do that for you free of charge just cover all the shipping.
Mac

[CoachH]

Thanks Kevin! That super generous. I just had a buddy locally here offer the same. So I'm gonna pull the radiator out tonight and have him give it a shot and see if it works.

[Tempest67]

Coach, your pic has me very confused.........it appears that your lower rad outlet is at the same level as your alternator??? maybe it's an illusion???

Here are the best pics I can find of mine, and the alternator is much higher than the lower rad hose. (I only have the alt. bracket in the pic, but you can see where the alt goes), the lower rad hose is below the center of the water pump.


The bad news is , yes, we need to cut and reposition the lower rad hose outlet, but either your rad is really high, or your motor is mounted really low, or both??.....or that pic is an illusion.

Good Luck with the build, and enjoy the process........remember, if it was easy, everyone would have one.

[Kevin Mac]

Originally Posted by CoachH

Thanks Kevin! That super generous. I just had a buddy locally here offer the same. So I'm gonna pull the radiator out tonight and have him give it a shot and see if it works.

Not a problem, I had to cut the lower corner off mine to clear steering box, I know not everyone welds aluminum.