Finally completed the rear disc replacement on my ho52!!

[conoco]

I had this kit for about 6 months but was rebuilding my transfer case and installing the gear vendors unit so It just sat on my work bench. What a welcomed difference. The drum brake pads are almost nonexistent. The install was one of the easiest I have done. It helps that taking apart the wheels and hubs on the eaton is super easy. After I did this I decided to just replace all the brake lines. They were looking aged so that took some time. I am please with everything. More importantly I am happy that I don't have to search for parts anymore and the brake pads are easy to purchase and quick to change. I did opt for the calipers with the e-brake. That was non-negotiable for me but was an extra 200 ( well worth it) You will need to replace the proportional valve if you do this swap. I have a 72 with disc front and drum rear. I initially used that proportional valve at first, as I heard that some people were able to retain that with no problems. My first test drive the brakes were very spongy and soft even after bleeding them. Once I change the valve they feel awesome. My proportional valve was super old though also and flaring some of the lines while on the truck was a pain in the butt for access. Pretty happy thus far!

* side note- Those drums were by far the heaviest I have ever felt in my life. I have had a lot of people offer good money for them but I need to hold on to them. Never know if the future if I will need them and they are very very hard to find! Here's to 50 more years on the eaton!! Truck officially turned 50 this month!

Also, I did not have to change out my lugs. I will eventually but I still have 5/8 thread engagement and it is running good.

* e brake cable will need to be modified. I went to napa and bought a standard 25 inch cable. I cut off the mounting bracket on the old one ( The one that has the screw mounts for the old backing plate. Once I took that off I cut the new line I bought to the length I needed and welded small nuts onto the ends with plenty of wire engagement. This allowed me to use them the same as any brake cable to hooks onto the metal piece that is used anyway. It was really easy and I am probably not explaining it very well so sorry if you cant get a visual. I will take some pictures and add them.

Be safe everyone!

[Sim6]

I like it! Bet it stops well now.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by Sim6

I like it! Bet it stops well now.

Very noticeable difference! Not bashing drums, I know they still use drums in a lot of modern applications. But I was really sick of trying to find some of the parts for the eaton. I love this axle and luckily the gears still look new. This is a welcomed upgrade. Real test will be when I start pulling my trailer and camper!!

[MattG]

How did you source the parts? Was it a kit or individual?

[conoco]

Originally Posted by MattG

How did you source the parts? Was it a kit or individual?

Yes sir, it was a kit. There is another kit from a different company but I believe there's require you to weld on the c-bracket. I am not opposed to that but plug and play was a much better option for me.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2053.html

[MattG]

Hey thanks, that's actually affordable comparatively to front conversion from what I've seen. How weird would it be to have "drums/disc"

[conoco]

Originally Posted by MattG

How did you source the parts? Was it a kit or individual?

here it is, sorry didn't see you already got the link. You will enjoy it if you go this route. Good luck brother.

[franken]

As far as I know, those are 3/4 ton 2 wheel drive front calipers and rotors.

[dagnabbitt]

Wow, that is extremely affordable for what you get.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by dagnabbitt

Wow, that is extremely affordable for what you get.

Sure as heck beats the price for the Eaton parts, if you can find them lol. Its a good kit. took me about 2 hours to install minus the new brake lines. That took longer obviously. Most of that 2 hours was spend sand blasting the bolts and wire wheeling.

[KQQL IT]

How's it stop.
I considered this when I couldn't find a drum for my 68

[Fbks_Cruiser]

Nice! What proportioning valve did you use?

[Captain X]

How did you handle the e-brake (some people seem uncomfortable with the ones offered in kits like this)? Also, is this one of those kits that moves your tires out a bit, or do they end up in line with stock?

[MattG]

Seems for me a bit more complicated as I have 67 C20 and likely the smaller lugs. Would it make sense to scrounge up some 71-72 hubs with the larger diameter lugs? Would they fit the same, bearings etc as the original 67? Then I could “pre-build the hub/rotor assemblies and minimize downtime?

[conoco]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

How's it stop.
I considered this when I couldn't find a drum for my 68

Much Much better after I put the new proportional valve on. The brakes are a lot tighter in the pedal and you can feel it. Very pleased.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by Fbks_Cruiser

Nice! What proportioning valve did you use?

Here you go. There are a bunch to choose from. This was the only one in stock and that I could get in 2 days so I was eager.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by Captain X

How did you handle the e-brake (some people seem uncomfortable with the ones offered in kits like this)? Also, is this one of those kits that moves your tires out a bit, or do they end up in line with stock?

My tires remained the same. However, I will be putting on a 2" spacer to make them even with my front tires. The eaton is a little narrower than the dana 44. I have been driving it for a couple years now the way it is, but it would be nice with them even.

The e brake was a really easy fix. I maintained my stock e brake. Here is what I did.

1. I cut the two bolt fitting off, with my cut off wheel ( Super easy) that is on the stock e brake line that secures it to the old backing plate.

2. I bought just your average e brake cables from napa, they were $22 dollars a piece. They were 25 inches long and I only needed 10". It was the shortest they had, i just needed the ends.

3. Since those lines both have the ends already crimped on to the metal wire, I just measures the extra 10-15 inches of cable I needed and cut the new brake cable.

4. Since the new cable already had one end of the line crimped I just ran the other end of the wire cable through a 1/4 piece of metal brake line tubing that was about 1/8 inch long. I then tied the end that I ran through the tubing in a knot and tig welded it so it was fused. Then I just hooked the new line into the old line using the line connector that was already on the truck from the old system.

essentially everything is the same other than a 10" addition to the cable. It works the same as it did stock and it took about an hour to complete.

Hope I explained it ok and it helps. I am up on the oil fields for the next 2 weeks but when I get home I will take some pictures and post it incase anyone needs it for reference.

[conoco]

Originally Posted by MattG

Seems for me a bit more complicated as I have 67 C20 and likely the smaller lugs. Would it make sense to scrounge up some 71-72 hubs with the larger diameter lugs? Would they fit the same, bearings etc as the original 67? Then I could “pre-build the hub/rotor assemblies and minimize downtime?

If you go to the ruff stuff website they explain how to fix this for smaller lugs. All you need to do is drill your current ones and enlarge them a little bit. Super easy.

[special-K]

Thanks for the well written post. I have a '72 K2500 also and I plan in the future to replace the Dana 60 with an HO52 I have with No-Spin. I redid the Dana 60 (and front) brakes not long ago, but something isn't right. Feels like all front brake, so I plan to deal with that before driving again. Might be a good time to do the switch

[conoco]

Originally Posted by special-K

Thanks for the well written post. I have a '72 K2500 also and I plan in the future to replace the Dana 60 with an HO52 I have with No-Spin. I redid the Dana 60 (and front) brakes not long ago, but something isn't right. Feels like all front brake, so I plan to deal with that before driving again. Might be a good time to do the switch

It was a long time coming for me. I am not familiar with drum brakes like I am with disc. There is pro's and con's to each system. But, there is a very noticeable difference in stopping power now, I say with confidence if you do this swap you will be happy! Just keep the parking brake

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by conoco

Much Much better after I put the new proportional valve on. The brakes are a lot tighter in the pedal and you can feel it. Very pleased.

If I have to revisit the rear brakes.
I will get this kit, appreciate the review.

My last experience with drum brakes required a torch and a 14+/- trips to napa.

[57taskforce]

That HO52 looks awesome with the disks. If you want it to stop even better after rear disks, add a hydraboost. It makes a HUGE difference over the vacuum booster. I need to get my 01+ hd rear disk swapped 14 bolt under my K20 this summer along with the front dana 60 I built for it.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by conoco

Just keep the parking brake

Absolutely! That is what hung me up on rear discs when I first saw kits come out.

Hydraboost brakes are great. Other than my '72. That what my daily drivers have had since the '80s. First on one tons, then started driving diesels in '89. Don't have a diesel now but my '95 Suburban K2500 with 350 even has hydraboost

[conoco]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

If I have to revisit the rear brakes.
I will get this kit, appreciate the review.

My last experience with drum brakes required a torch and a 14+/- trips to napa.

I spit out my water reading this Sounds about right though! Took some heat and persuasion with a sledge to separate the drum!! If you need any help in the future feel free to hit me up!

[conoco]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

That HO52 looks awesome with the disks. If you want it to stop even better after rear disks, add a hydraboost. It makes a HUGE difference over the vacuum booster. I need to get my 01+ hd rear disk swapped 14 bolt under my K20 this summer along with the front dana 60 I built for it.

I am not familiar and will research this. Is it something I keep everything I have now and just add some stuff or is it a complete system change? I am always down for more stopping power. I do a lot of mountain driving pulling my motor home here in Alaska and would never complain having more brakes !!