67 C10 small window build

[budman911]

I'm new to the site, but thought i would share my build as I progress. I'm certain all of the things I'm doing have been done before. So nothing new here.
I bought this 1967 C10 short step from a local blueberry farmer. When I bought it kept telling me how sad he was sad to see it go as he had put a lot of time into the custom interior, which was shag carpeting glued to every interior panel. The passenger fender, the floor, the rockers, and cab corners were all trash. The hood is in great shape, except for the hood pins. Though I was extremely excited to find the guy had already installed a very nice foot print gas pedal, so the hard part was done. I work on this truck a few days each week, and I spend most of the day behind a computer, so I will try to post updates frequently. Input is always welcome.

[budman911]

I brought the truck in with an oil covered 283 backed by a TH350. I believe it was an original 3 speed on the column. Regardless, it all had to come out.

[hewittca]

That interior looked great. I hope you plan on redoing it similar to that.

Looks like a fun start to a project. What are your plans seriously?

[68Gold/white]

You've got a lot of work to do!!!

[budman911]

So I have a rough plan, but things change everyday. I've removed the body and bed, blasted and painted the frame with AUE-370, new Boyd's tank for the frame rails, new ball joints, tie rods, body bushings, installed the new floor rockers and one of the cab corners, filled in the firewall. I bought and installed McGaughy's big brake kit and dropped spindles and threw on some wheels that i had around. That's where I'm at currently. Not 100% sure on the ride height, or air vs static, ls vs big block, paint vs no paint (right now). I'm certainly painting the firewall, cowl, interior, and bottom of the cab very soon, and step vs fleet bed. Lots to work out still, but progress is being made.

[budman911]

Here is some stage of the floor being installed. Love that shiny new gas tank.

[budman911]

Frame was blasted. I used AUE-370 to paint it. It worked well on my last ride so I thought i would try it again.
My son wanted to earn some money, so he got to weld on the truck a little. A least he's not sitting in front of his PS4.

[budman911]

Here is where i am today.
I had 18's on the front, but I thought it looked a little funny with 20's on the rear. So i did some swapping with a local tire/wheel shop and got 20's for the front. Now I'm thinking that looks a little funny too. No idea what I'm doing on the suspension yet. 5/7 or 5/8 static drop, or air.

[budman911]

Originally Posted by hewittca

That interior looked great. I hope you plan on redoing it similar to that.

Looks like a fun start to a project. What are your plans seriously?

I thought i would use a higher pile version of the shag. Maybe some dingle balls around the top. You know, Cheech and Chong style.

[budman911]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

You've got a lot of work to do!!!

Lots and lots of work. It's pretty relaxing though. The last couple of rides I built were complete builds starting from a rusty shell with no floor at all. This is a different kind of build so it's nice.

[budman911]

Worked on the other cab corner last night, and bought a big block w/ a 400 transmission. Going to pick the motor up later today. The guy didn't have the "specs" on the engine but claims it's rebuilt. Hope it's not junk. On the bright side I did get new brackets and pulleys with it along with a new water pump and a/c compressor. After I get the cab corner finished up I'm stripping it down and getting the cab blasted. First part of next week most likely.

[budman911]

I'm going to static drop the truck. Does anyone have a pic of your lower a arm position in relation to the factory cross member with a 5" total drop in the front? I know where I want it to set, but not certain on the springs I need to get this height. I think it's 5". Anyone know how much lower the ride height will be with a big block?

[hewittca]

For what it's worth, I think the 20s up front at the height you showed in the pic looks awesome.

I'm going for the lowest static drop up front that I can go with basic drop parts (spindles, springs). I will be at 6.5" total drop and my control arm is about where yours is now. If you put the bump stop in, the truck will be resting on it by about 1/2". I cut the bump stop mount out completely and that's how I run it. I also had to do a few other mods to get the truck to handle properly with this much spring drop. If you're doing a 5" drop, I'd say raise yours up about 1" and that's where it will be (in regards to the last pic you posted).

[budman911]

thanks for the advise. I read through your build post. Love that truck. Very cool. Have you finished your suspension yet?

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by budman911

thanks for the advise. I read through your build post. Love that truck. Very cool. Have you finished your suspension yet?

Thanks. No not yet. Still waiting on doing the spindle swap and then it will be done.

[budman911]

Originally Posted by hewittca

For what it's worth, I think the 20s up front at the height you showed in the pic looks awesome.

I'm going for the lowest static drop up front that I can go with basic drop parts (spindles, springs). I will be at 6.5" total drop and my control arm is about where yours is now. If you put the bump stop in, the truck will be resting on it by about 1/2". I cut the bump stop mount out completely and that's how I run it. I also had to do a few other mods to get the truck to handle properly with this much spring drop. If you're doing a 5" drop, I'd say raise yours up about 1" and that's where it will be (in regards to the last pic you posted).

Thanks. that's exactly what i was looking for. So the camber mod and remove the bumps. What, if any, were the other mods you had to do to adjust for handling?
2.5" spindle 4" spring=6.5" of drop. I think the big block is going to drop the front another 1/2" at least. I may have use a 3" spring to avoid rubbing. At this height with the 20's in the front i can turn lock to lock without any issues, but it's close.

[hewittca]

I had to do the following to get the truck to handle like stock with a 4" spring drop (shouldn't change anything once I'm at 6.5" with spindles, except maybe clearance on the inner wheel tubs):

-Completely cut out bump stop mount
-Caster mod (move lower control arm 1/2" to 3/4" forward)
-Readjust camber to between 0 and -1 degree
-Flip outer tie rod to mount from the bottom of the spindle to correct bump steer (this requires a tapered ream to redrill the spindle)

[budman911]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I had to do the following to get the truck to handle like stock with a 4" spring drop (shouldn't change anything once I'm at 6.5" with spindles, except maybe clearance on the inner wheel tubs):

-Completely cut out bump stop mount
-Caster mod (move lower control arm 1/2" to 3/4" forward)
-Readjust camber to between 0 and -1 degree
-Flip outer tie rod to mount from the bottom of the spindle to correct bump steer (this requires a tapered ream to redrill the spindle)

I would be curious to see if the droppped spindle corrects the need to flip the outter tie rod. If I remember correctly everything is pretty flat on my steering. No weird angles on the tie rods. Is there a "correct" angle? I've installed all the new steering components already. Now that you mention this, I have to go look. These all seem like straight forward mods. Thank you.

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by budman911

I would be curious to see if the droppped spindle corrects the need to flip the outter tie rod. If I remember correctly everything is pretty flat on my steering. No weird angles on the tie rods. Is there a "correct" angle? I've installed all the new steering components already. Now that you mention this, I have to go look. These all seem like straight forward mods. Thank you.

I think the drop spindle is supposed to have the same relative mounting position for the tierod, so the tierod mount location is essentially unchanged while the spindle moves up 2.5". With the 4" springs, my tierods were pointing up towards the spindles at about a 20 degree angle. You want these as flat as possible, and by flipping the tierod to the bottom they are now less than 5 degrees down. To be fair, I didn't notice much difference in steering feel after doing this mod, but it seemed like the right thing to do theoretically.

[budman911]

Makes perfect sense. I'm going to investigate this with my McGaughy's spindles. I'm sure the result will be the same, but i would like to know if there are any differences between manufacturers.

[budman911]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I think the drop spindle is supposed to have the same relative mounting position for the tierod, so the tierod mount location is essentially unchanged while the spindle moves up 2.5". With the 4" springs, my tierods were pointing up towards the spindles at about a 20 degree angle. You want these as flat as possible, and by flipping the tierod to the bottom they are now less than 5 degrees down. To be fair, I didn't notice much difference in steering feel after doing this mod, but it seemed like the right thing to do theoretically.

And of course, you are correct on the tie rod angle. It sounds as though it's the same with the McGaughy's spindle. Going later to ream the bottom side of the steering arm and moving the tie rod to the bottom side.
I'm going to drill and move the lower arm 3/4" forward and readjust the spindle to 1 degree of caster as well. Hopefully tonight.

[budman911]

So a short little update. I bought a new bed with a steel floor. Trying to get all the door gaps and body lines where they need to be has proved to be very frustrating. Working through it though. It's either right, or it's not. Also, I found that the cab was sitting about 1/2" off after the floor installation, even with bracing. It was easily corrected though.

[Getter-Done]

Looking Great.
I also purchased a full floor pan to install in the future.
I am still collecting parts.
I like the nice looking gas tank you have.
I plan to use a (Blazer or suburban) rear mount tank.
Where is your filler neck going to be?

[67chevemall]

Looks great! Good job

[budman911]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Looking Great.
I also purchased a full floor pan to install in the future.
I am still collecting parts.
I like the nice looking gas tank you have.
I plan to use a (Blazer or suburban) rear mount tank.
Where is your filler neck going to be?

Thanks. I was going to use a wood bed and come through the floor. Now i have a steel floor, so I'm honestly not certain yet. It's a Boyd's tank, they also have the side fill version or mine can be adapted.