'65 idler arm stud to center link fitment

[jmcap]

Wondering how to solve this problem. Bought new front tires and wanted wheel alignment as well. Was shown that there was lateral play between the newly installed idler arm stud, and the mating hole of the center link. I don't recall the brand of the idler arm and wondering if the the diameter of the stud is the issue or the center link hole is worn. Anyone have a similar experience? Hoping it's just a cheap idler arm that's the issue. Any comments would be deeply appreciated.

jmcap

[PGSigns]

Has it had disc brakes put on it? Post a picture of that side. Did you pull it up tight in the taper.
Jimmy

[jmcap]

Jimmy,
pulled up tight and yes PO has installed disc brakes. Not near truck at present time to send pic.
John

[PGSigns]

Pull it apart and see if the hole in the drag link is still round. I have seen the tapered holes egg shaped from being run loose. Also look to see if it pulled up to the end of the threads and not seated in the taper. If it has the 73 and up drag link you may have the wrong idler arm. That is why I was asking about the picture.
Jimmy

[jmcap]

Jimmy,
So the truck is my son's who has inherited my passion for classic cars and trucks but due to his medical profession has limited time for hands on maintenance and repair. I, on the other hand, am retired and free to play at my leisure. So I pulled it apart last night. There are many unknowns as this 65 is highly modified and upgrades performed are questionable from the POs: Power steering, disk brakes up front, etc., etc.

I can assume therefore that the steering components have been swapped out for God knows what GM era. The idler arm that was in place was surely newer and for sure correct for a stock 65. There is no evidence of wear to the center link's tapered mounting hole. I had an available 66 and up "Dog Bone" arm with mounting bracket and all appears to be resolved with a little bit of tweaking.

The idler arm stud to center link 'locks up' nicely. There are stock drilled holes in the chassis for the diagonal mounted frame arm. All of the geometry looks good. The only issue is that the grease fitting on the ball joint closes to the frame needs to be removed for the dog bone to pass under the frame when turning left. At that I would still like to have more clearance. I'm considering marking the area, take the arm out, heat up the frame and beat it to give me more clearance. Hope my approach works. I'll let you know.

John

[PGSigns]

If everything is where it should be that should not happen. I'll look to see if I have a pic of my 66 idler arm. I has all 73 and up hardware on it. I dont have any clearance issues.
Jimmy

[jmcap]

I guess I made too much of the clearance of the 'idler arm dog bone' passing below the chassis. My son buttoned it all up and put it through it's paces. There is no evidence of scraping at all. Guess it's time to move on to other PO mess ups.