I need a new carb for a 72 292

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

I need a new carb for a 72 292. I've put a kit in it, but it has a unfixable leak in the bottom of the bowl in the accelerate pump power valve area. I used to be a carb specialist back in the 70's so I know what I'm doing, but I can't it. Back in the early 80's I had a 66 nova with a 153 four banger that I hopped up and I bought a new Holley carb for a 292 that was great and I wonder if they still make it.

[dmjlambert]

I got a very nice Quadrajet from National Carburetor for a couple hundred bucks to replace my basket case Quadrajet. Very inexpensive, lifetime warranty, and just bolt on and start using it. I even had them build me a custom one with electric choke for my 1969 CST-10 and there was no extra charge.

[dmjlambert]

And the way the lifetime warranty works is when the carburetor acts up, you just put it in a box and ship it to them, and they fix it and ship it back. I've done that one time and it worked out great. It was less expensive than buying a carburetor kit and doing it myself, and certainly more convenient.

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

I want the one barrel though.

[Llay R. Rac]

a few months ago I replaced the rochester B on my 292 with a carter 4371S, I have only driven it about 60 miles so far, but I like it alot.

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by Tiiimmmaaayyy

I want the one barrel though.

I believe they do carburetors of all types and brands.

[irl104]

I ordered my Rochester one barrel carb. from O'Reilly Auto Parts. It was for my 1968 Chevrolet 292 with a manual choke. It was about 140.00 with a core. They have several warehouses around the US. Their product was exactly as I needed.

['68OrangeSunshine]

You will need an aftermarket 4 barrel intake to run any 2- or 4Bbl carb. Either an Offenhauser or Clifford.
I ran a Holley 390 CFM 4160 R8007 over an Offy intake on my 292 [with Clifford headers] for 25 years. After I rebuilt the engine, the Holley would not settle in with the new set-up. I figured it had a warped baseplate, so it was cheaper to switch to an Edelbrock 1404 500 CFM. Very happy with the AFB clone. Still running the Same Offy intake and Clifford headers 40 years later.
Both aftermarket intakes are made for squarebore carbs. No way a Q-Jet would ever work.
[GM of Brazil did make an L6 cast iron Q-Jet intake for a 1000 CFM pure sugar cane alcohol Quadrajet, but they never were imported here].

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

I've found many new carbs online so problem solved. Thanks everyone! :-)

[Llay R. Rac]

what carb are you getting?

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

This is the one I thought was the best deal I could get.

https://www.amazon.com/Partol-Carbur...ct_top?ie=UTF8

I also thought it would be a good time to upgrade from points.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

['68OrangeSunshine]

Buyer beware. I bought one of those red Asian L6 HEI distributors from Amazon. The ignition module was dead right out of the box. No response from customer service. I kept the lower assembly and rebuilt it with good parts, and changed to the Low Boy, remote coil unit as used on L6 HEIs on Chevy 292s from '75 - '77.
They called themselves ''Assault Racing'' then. After the scathing customer review I wrote on Amazon, they changed their name and started over, I'll bet.

Partol carb looks OK. Does your truck have no choke cable? That carb has an automatic choke. Personally I prefer manual control. Arizona has a wide range of elevations and climate zones, and auto choke wasn't up to the task, I found.

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

Yeah, I wondered about the distributer too. I hope it's ok. The reviews were mostly good so I went for it. The bad reviews were few, but they said about what you're saying.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Tiiimmmaaayyy

Yeah, I wondered about the distributer too. I hope it's ok. The reviews were mostly good so I went for it. The bad reviews were few, but they said about what you're saying.

Just upgrade the module anyways...

[68Stepbed]

Just for giggles.
https://www.shop.cliffordperformance...ion-68C250.htm

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

Ok, I've installed the new carb & distributor. I learned something the hard way when it got down to the single digits and a freeze plug popped out. From now on when I buy an old vehicle I'm checking the antifreeze right away! When I took off the manifolds I found broken bolts on the ends of them. The exhaust was leaking into the intake. It took 3 days for the gaskets to get here so I did the plugs while I waited for them. I had to power flush the cooling system 3 times to get it cleaned out. It was like rusty mud the first flush! It's back together and runs better than new now and the heater works good. I timed it as advanced as she would tolerate which is a lot (good ol 8:1 CR and long stroke) and it runs great and gets decent gas mileage now. Now I'm looking for a simple air cleaner for the 1 barrel carb. Any suggestions for the air filter guys??? New pictures as soon as I degrease the engine.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Tim: Are you sure the end ''bolts'' are broken? OEM L6s use non-threaded studs as guide pins on the ends of the stock manifolds. These pins keep the manifolds in place and allow for expansion and contraction during operation [hot] and shut down [cooling].
The head manifold mount bolt holes at #1 and #8 are threaded 3/8-16 unc. Since I run aftermarket Clifford headers on my 292, I have replaced the guide pins with real bolts, since the expansion/contraction idea doesn't work for headers.
On a stock manifold set up, guide pins are perfectly normal.

For one-barrel air cleaner ideas, you might ask at www.InlinersInternational.org
or www.12Bolt.com
or www.cliffordperformance.com
I've been running 4 Bbls for 30 years.

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

It must have been done already because they are bolts, I just hit em with the torch for a bit and the stubs screwed right out.

[jfnar]

Did you need an adapter for that carb? It look like a 2 bbl. What kind of gas mileage are you getting?

[RichardJ]

>>Are you sure the end ''bolts'' are broken? OEM L6s use non-threaded studs as guide pins on the ends of the stock manifolds.<<

I'm sure he meant to write "THREADED" studs. If you replaced them with bolts, tighten no more than light snug.

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

No, just the stock one barrel manifold. I haven't really kept track of the gas mileage yet since I just replaced the severely leaky carb and all the other stuff that was screwing up engine efficiency. All I know for sure at this point is that I don't have to put $20 of gas in it every day anymore.

[burnin oil]

I feel your pain on an old carb. I have a 70 C30 dump truck that came with my place. When I was trying to get it running I found out that the carb leaked more gas than went into the motor. The throttle shafts were so loose that I ended up shimming them with plastic from a coke bottle! This was just a farm repair to get it mobile that I have since abandoned for now. I did learn one thing on that endevor though. A four foot black snake can get into the raised part at the front of the hood and will scare the crap out of ya when you are working on the fuel pump and he slithers out!!!!! My wife said something and I turned to see what she was saying. There he was hanging from the inside of the hood where the latch is. Face to face!

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

Roflmao!!!

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Tiiimmmaaayyy

No, just the stock one barrel manifold. I haven't really kept track of the gas mileage yet since I just replaced the severely leaky carb and all the other stuff that was screwing up engine efficiency. All I know for sure at this point is that I don't have to put $20 of gas in it every day anymore.

I'm confused??? Your amazon link took me to a Toyota Landcruiser carburetor.. It's definitely a progressive 2 bbl model.. Description says manual choke but the pictures show an electric choke stove..

If you actually have that carburetor, you'll need an adaptor plate to install it.. But --- You say the replacement carburetor bolted directly to the stock manifold?? I suspect the carburetor in the link is not the replacement you have..

Under any event, if the locator pins at the end of the exhaust manifold have been replaced with bolts, and you're retaining the stock exhaust manifold, You'll need to put those pins back in place.. Or the manifold will crack from the heat cycles.. Because of the "bolt together" design of the intake and exhaust manifolds, there is a trick to getting every thing lined up prior to tightening the manifold to head bolts.. If the procedure isn't adhered to, you WILL HAVE leaks -- both on the intake side and exhaust side...

[Tiiimmmaaayyy]

Sorry for the wrong link. It's the same 1 barrel carb that was from chevy. I copper permatexed the manifolds and was careful not to use too much torque on the end bolts on the manifolds so I doubt that I'll have any trouble. Thanks for the tips and I'll keep an eye on those manifolds.