55.2-59 Operation 55

[65Robb]

Alright guys i am new to these 50s trucks idk much about them this is a special secret project i am working on right now. give you guys a little back story on what i am doing, I bought this 55 3200 a few months ago for my dads 50th birthday present. this is his favorite Chevy truck of all time he had one once before I was way too little to remember it anyways it was his baby everything was done minus paint. the sad day came one morning he was on his way to work and a tractor pulled out on the highway as another car was passing in his lane so he ended up rolling it into a ditch. so after the accident he started to rebuild but with four kids at home it made it difficult to finish so it got sold. that was roughly 25 years ago so he's been looking for another one since my whole love or working on old rigs started with dad talking about the 55 and so I was able to find one definitely not in the best shape but its a titled 55 that when im done an give it to him he can daily drive it. would love to hear some input and I know ill have questions so I hope everyone can chime in and help me out thanks in advance.

So without any further ado here she is 1955.2 235ci with a 3 on the tree don't know the bed length yet I do know the engine is seized

[65Robb]

Came to start tearing out the old engine and 3 speed there was no way this 235 would of ran it was so rat turd infested I just didn't wanna mess with it so I got a 305 and a np 440 (aka a833) 4 speed od. im working on the heads for the 305 found a set of vortecs at the machine shop that im putting together for it. ill post engine and trans combo pics later idk if the clutch fork out of the 3 speed will work with the 4 speed or do I need an other style clutch fork? this clutch linkage is different then what im used to from 63-87

[RockinKees]

Sounds like a cool project, I’ll follow along.

3200 is normally a longbed, but you can make it a shortbed by shorten the chassis/wheelbase.

[65Robb]

That's the plan we have a short step side already dad was just waiting for a cheap truck to come along lol. I got the heads back from the machine shop just waiting on gaskets for the 305 and a throw out bearing for the trans I'm going to use the clutch fork out of the 3speed so everything should bolt all together

[dsraven]

cool project. keep posting pics, sometimes thats what it takes to get us off the couch and working on our stuff too.
if you can't find a box, fab one up and stick some step side fenders on it.lots of them on here.

[65Robb]

I'll post as many pics as I can as I'm putting it together. I totally get the reading builds to get the insperation going think that's why I watch roadkill so much for the insperation lol doesn't matter if it looks good or it's done right aslong as it's powered on it's own.

[65Robb]

Alright got progress done got the 305 vortec buttoned up got the np440 bolted up and fired on the shed floor prior to installation only issue I have now with the np440 is I need a different shifter the one for the square body is too short and hits the seat so I cant shift into 2nd and od so I think a 15.5" straight van shifter should fix the issue.

[dsraven]

if you can't find a shifter that fits you could always lop off the original one, thread the shaft, bend the leftovers so they fit, then thread that and put it all together with a long nut, like the threaded rod connector nut but more handsome looking. unless it is under the shift boot and then it doesn't matter what it looks like as long as it works.

[clegg]

Cool impala steering wheel. Looks restorable.

[65Robb]

Ok got pics took of the shifter in the 55 they aren't the best but you get the idea it feels too croweded in the drivers seat so I pulled it and need to order a different shifter

[duramax55]

all you have to do is heat it up close to the floor and bend it forward to where you want it. Might have to bend the top back afterwards

[65Robb]

Yeah I could but with this being a MY6 shifter kinda rare squareboy peice I'd rather not heat it an bend it lol

[dsraven]

bucket seats?
notched bench seat so room for shifter?
auto trans? haha

[65Robb]

I pulled the shift took the stick out going to order a straight stick like for a van should do the trick

[65Robb]

alright got a new shifter installed that doesn't hit the seat, had to change out the slip yoke from a 18 spline for a 27 spline did not have to shorten the drive shaft, also had to swap out the radiator got a nice three core aluminum rad. I drove it down to dads party with no exhaust no license insurance no lights and no brakes it was roadkill at best but man it was epic!! hard to put it all in words but man he loved it it was great lots of laughs he cried we cried it was great turn out.

[hobo]

Cool thread! Good on you for getting it to his party! No brakes???

[65Robb]

Haha I towed my brothers ranger for brakes haha it was a damn good time now time to get it in the shop and figure out what's wrong with the brake system

[dsraven]

whaddya got for brakes? whats the issue?
good thing ford puts tow hooks on the front and gm puts trailer hitches on the rear, eh? haha

[65Robb]

All original drums haha

[dsraven]

best to pull it apart and see what you have to start with.
check
-steel brake lines for rust, pitting, kinks and other mechanical damage, integrity of connections and flare nuts
-rubber brake lines for cracking (flex them and check on the outside of the bend), mechanical damage, wet spots from leakage, and general integrity around mounting etc. some would replace the rubber lines due to age because they get rotten and can burst under a hard brake application. the stock system is a single system, meaning all the brakes run on a single circuit. when one system leaks the whole system suffers the loss and if one system fails both the front and rear brakes fail together. they changed that back in the 60's to a dual system for that reason.
-master cylinder mounting and condition of actual unit, inside the reservoir can get pretty badly rusted, cap can be missing or damaged, cap seal can be missing etc etc. sometimes better off to replace the stock unit with adual system master cylinder anyway. you don't wanna push the dirt from one end of the system through the rest of the system.
-wheel cylinders, pull back the rubber dust caps on each end and check the condition of the cylinders from each end. there is a little metal thing and behind that is the rubber cylinder cup. when the brakes are disassembled you should be able to push the guts of the wheel cylinder from one side right out through the other side of the cylinder. then you can check the cylinder for pitting etc. at that point you might as well simply replace the cylinder though. cheap enough.
-bleeder screws, check to ensure they move and are not plugged. if replacing the wheel cylinders the new parts usually have a new bleeder screw installed already.
-brake shoes, self explanatory
-brake drums, an auot supply place that machines drums usually can check your drums for size. if they are too big the new shoes will not fit well and the brakes are not gonna be very good until the shoes wear enough to fit the drums. by that time you have sacrificed a bunch of brake lining. better to replace the drums and shoes and have good brakes almost right away
-rear axle seals. check these when the brakes are off and if they leak at all replace them and check the axles for wear in the seal area. an oil leak causes brake issues and can cause a wheel to lock up when the brakes are applied.
-front wheel hub seals. since the brake drums are riveted to the hubs, usually, it is a good idea to clean, check and repack the wheel bearings and replace the hub seals at the same time. install a new cotter pin at the same time for the axle hub nut.
-brake hardware. springs, star wheels and hardware kits are pretty cheap. might be a good idea.
-park brake cables and levers etc. check and replace as required. ensure the system works because it is part of the brake shoe adjustment and should be adjusted after the star wheels are adjusted. all the linkages need to be free moving as well. a missing or non adjusted park brake will make the system require a brake pedal "pump up" because the shoes don't fit against the drums properly on the wheel cylinder end of the brake shoes.
-brake pedal linkages and return springs. ensure free moving and non worn parts. there is also a rubber bumper on the pedal to stop the pedal at the correct height. it bumps against the firewall
-brake light switch. ensure it is adjusted and working.
have fun, post pics

[65Robb]

Will do just ran out of money and time so that's next on the list but I also didn't wanna take too much away from my dad either he enjoys turning wrench's as much as I do haha

[65Robb]

Well we found another cab and chassis that is in way better shape so we will be doing a full swap this chassis is suppose to be a 6' bed chassis means we wont have to chop the frame we have already ill post pics and the build as we get it going.

[joedoh]

thats dedication to drive it that way!

if you got a new cab and chassis, isnt that technically a new truck? haha

[65Robb]

Yes it is but still the same vision haha

[dsraven]

I guess you could say your old chevy has ford brakes, as long as you use the ranger "in tow". lol.
new cab = new truck, yup. truck rich. seems like it gets in your blood doesn't it? pretty soon your cruising the back roads looking for roof profiles sticking out above the grass horizon, or old broken tail lights between the trees.
post up some pics man, we're all waiting.
hopefully the new one is the same era. the 58-59 stuff is different up front. longer so if needed you can always make it work by cutting off a couple inches and moving the rad support brackets back.