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Old 07-11-2005, 03:26 PM   #1
chickenwing
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It's me again. I have gotten a little closer with the required parts. Just got in my parallel flow condensor (thanks BobbyK for the link) and a new R-4 compressor. I allready have a new poa elimenator kit, a new thermostatic expansion valve, and a new reciever/dryer. Re-using the evaporator. All that is left is to fab lines and decide if I am going to a Fixed Orifice Tube instead.

Here comes the question:

Where did you get the parts to fab the rigid lines? What size tube? Looks like 2 differant sizes in BobbyK's pic (3rd pic in 21st post). Do you use compression fittings?
Any help appreciated.
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Old 07-12-2005, 01:05 AM   #2
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The aluminium lines are the stock hard lines.I just turned the larger line horizontal and it lined right up to the new condensor(lucky).The upper,smaller line,is just rebent(carefully).It looks like crap though and I'll most likely make a new,rubber,hose for that connection.

The Pic your talking about is a pic of the hard lines connected to the orig. style Condensor.I had only Laid the bottom line down in the horizontal position when I took the pic.I hadn't and still do not have a pic of both lines connected.Here is all I have of the connections to the new Parallel flow condensor.


The hard lines use the factory style O-rings.

You can get the hard lines from any-one of the vendors on the board.

Hope that helps.
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Last edited by augie; 04-13-2011 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 07-12-2005, 09:41 AM   #3
chickenwing
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BobbyK: Thanks for the responce. I hopped on last night and looks like you edited your post a little. You have helped me generate even more questions.

I remember seeing #'s 8 and 12? for the hose. Is the tube sized in gauges also or is it a standard measurement like 1/2" and 3/8"? If so, do you know the diameters? Understand you have reused factory hard lines. Do you think I can fab the rigid lines myself? Was thinking of finding the tube (somewhere) and using compression fittings. Think my bender goes up to 1/2". Understand you were adverse to using compression fittings for your FOT mod. Do you have the same missgivings for these lines?

The larger line in this newest pic is pressure from the compressor? I was under the impression this line should be connected to the upper connection. It must work either way. Just a maximum efficency thing?

Sorry for all the questions... I can definately wait until you are back from your trip for a reply. Still gathering all my marbles.
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Old 07-26-2005, 02:51 PM   #4
BobbyK
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"Larger line on bottom"
I've never heard if it makes a difference to be truthfull.
Yes,it's from the output of the compressor.

The hose sizes-I believe it's just an industry standard thing.
Like the #12 ia about a 1/2" i.d tube,#10 is something like 5/16",#8 is 3/8" etc.

the compreson fittings are on the market so they must work but for how long is the question.Our trucks are not the smoothest running vehicles out there and a compression fitting will prob. fail eventually.

If you want to splice in a tube so you can reuse the fatory "o" ring ends I'd get it tig'd together or aluminium brazed together.I'm going to try my hand at aluminium brazing some lines once I'm off vacation and back to work.

"Edit"

I've since learned the larger line from the compressor (high pressure vapor line)should be connected to the top of the condenser.
As it cools going through the condenser it turns into high pressure liquid,then into the into the receiver/dryer and then off to the FOT where it gets metered into the Evap. Core.
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Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI.
See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE

Last edited by BobbyK; 03-01-2008 at 08:45 AM. Reason: new info.
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Old 07-24-2004, 11:47 PM   #5
GSFMECH
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BobbyK,

You are the man. Thanks for the info, this is a great post. This is the reason I keep coming back here. A lot of 1st class info and great people. I think I am going to try the FOT and see what happens. I have been running these AC's for the last 25 to 30 years and have tried a lot of different combos from R12 to "freeze 12", cooling fans, R134A in a stock system etc. etc. Back when R12 was cheap and everything was right these systems worked OK. I have had a lot of trouble getting converted to 134A but my current configuration is better than it has ever been since I made the change. Right now going down the highway it is better than my 98 Z71 but in traffic it sucks. Thanks again for the great post,
Mike
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Old 07-25-2004, 01:00 AM   #6
BobbyK
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68C15- the way I had it set up(my hoses I mean)I was able to pull vacume after changeing cans.
It was like this:screw can to tap.Close valves on gauge.Open valve on can tap,pull vacume on lines,cut off vacume,close can tap valve,pierce can,open can tap valve,then open low side valve on gauge.


Also in regaurds to the blend door.I rebuilt the whole A/C/heater box.The blend door was cleaned,lubed and the seal around that door was in remarkable shape,soft,supple and not deformed.
I made sure the door was closeing properly when I reconnected my cables as well.
To top it off I clamped off both my inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core,just to make sure no hot coolant was effecting things.

I think I will try to fab up an outer shroud to try and direct more air through the condensor.
I don't really want to add ANOTHER e-fan (that would make 3)and would prob. go to a parallel flow condensor before I did that.

I still need to adjust the cutoff switch to cut the compressor off at the presures you guys have mentioned.
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71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension.
Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI.
See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE

Last edited by augie; 04-13-2011 at 01:04 AM.
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