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Old 08-02-2016, 12:45 PM   #1
JIMs70GMC
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06 D-max rear brake line

My son has an 06 2500HD, his hard brake line that runs along the top of the driverside frame rail is leaking above the fuel tank. What is you all's advice as far as replacing the line? He has a hydraulic line from rock auto on order. Should he drop the tank or lift the bed? I guess the line is one long run from the ABS unit to the rubber line. Thanks
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:35 PM   #2
68c10airstream
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Re: 06 D-max rear brake line

I fixed a friend's 2004 2500 hd for the same thing. For his safety sake I replaced all lines from the abs unit out to the wheels. Your frustration will be that the bleeders don't open up. Replace the lines as needed and gravity bleed out the air as close to the wheel as possible, then push in the caliper piston or wheel cylinder as you crack open the closest new fitting at the wheel to remove the air. Removing the box will give you the most room but if you opt to remove the tank you may get fuel leaks in the process. Box removal isn't too bad, you need 4 guys to do it comfortably.

When I replaced the lines I removed the driver's side front wheel and inner fender rubber flap and worked from there. The rf wheel took a 2 piece line to negotiate all of the turns, but not bad.

Pay attention to the cab mount where it attaches just below the driver's door hinge area. The frame has a cup welded onto the outboard side of the frame and there is a couple of grounds that screw into the back of this cup, one being the abs unit ground. Remove the bolt, scrape the frame shiny, shine up the eyelets, and shine up the bolt. Reinstall the bolt and put grease all over the bolt including the threads sticking out and forget this ground from ever getting corroded again.

Before you go to drive the truck make sure the master cylinder is at the max full line and no more!!! If you over fill the master your rotors will be blue color because there will be residual pressure on the brake system even with your foot off of the brake pedal because there is no air pocket above the brake fluid inside the master cylinder to allow room for warm fluid expansion
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:38 PM   #3
68c10airstream
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Re: 06 D-max rear brake line

I need to correct my post, I removed the driver's side inner fender liner completely, not the rubber flap. I looks involved but is very easy.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:39 AM   #4
95 S_Trucker
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Re: 06 D-max rear brake line

You should be able to fish it through with out taking the bed off or removing the fuel tank.

I don't know how much your spending on the line, but go check with the local gm dealer. You can buy a pre bent kit with coated lines(that wont ever rust) for the entire truck for about $65-80.

Look at the brake lines between the drivers floor board and the frame, close to the grounds in the last post. They rust there pretty bad.

It takes me about 3.5-4 hrs to do a complete truck, and I usually do 8+ trucks per year.
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:58 PM   #5
JIMs70GMC
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Re: 06 D-max rear brake line

Thanks for the info. We did unbolt the bed and lifted it about 5" to get to the line easily. We bought a hard line kit that is AC Delco from rock auto. The lines are coated, had no problem installing. going to bleed the brakes tomorrow. took about 2 hours to get the old line out and snake the new line in. Thanks again.
__________________
1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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