No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Cbo

@robnolimit

With that kind of drop, clearance doesn't start becoming an issue? ( Both ground clearance and exhaust routing)


I remember seeing a crossmember with the center section hummed and two cutouts for exhaust routing, but im not sure who made it, i wanna say Porterbuilt but im not positive

The obvious answer to this is yes, clearance becomes an issue w/a 5"F/7"R drop. The exhaust needs to be routed up as tight as possible to the frame. Within the frame yields best results. That can be achieved via aftermarket T/A x-member (Porterbuilt, ECE, CPP, etc...) or cutting holes & reinforcing the factory x-member. Certain long tube headers might be a clearance issue as well so shorter 3/4 length or manifolds might be needed.

As far as ground clearance, w/a 5/7 drop one needs to become more aware of the roads they drive on for best results (minimal damages) depending on overall conditions where you live & just plain slow things down when traveling in unfamiliar areas. The usual point of contact is the front lower a-arm pivot points when there's an abrupt change in road surface @ speed.

[Cbo]

That's kind of what I'm getting at:

"Designed to work with stock crossmembers" and "will not work with aftermarket crossmembers" are two different things.

If it can be bolted on to a low profile one like porterbuilts,with its exhaust route already accounted for, I would rather install it that way.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by Cbo

That's kind of what I'm getting at:

"Designed to work with stock crossmembers" and "will not work with aftermarket crossmembers" are two different things.

If it can be bolted on to a low profile one like porterbuilts,with its exhaust route already accounted for, I would rather install it that way.

I don't think there exists an aftermarket crossmember that doesn't afford more flexibility than stock; if a system works with the stock crossmember, it will almost certainly work with an aftermarket.

[robnolimit]

please be careful. Yes, our kit is designed to work with the OE crossmember. This was done to keep cost inline and keep the install easier. It DOES however include new front trailing arm mounts, designed to replace the OE mounts. The "Monster Ball" dimensions are NOT the same as the OE trailing arm bushing. So, the new mounts MUST be used. (or duplicated) If the custom crossmember your looking at has the trailing arm mounts welded on for the OE spec bushing, this will NOT fit the new trailing arm pivot ball. Since most crossmembers I have seen have welded mounts, I don't know of any that will be a direct swap. (please share information if you know of any) Knowing this, modifying the OE crossmember may work out best.

[smbrouss70]

FYI, the Early Classic Enterprises trailing arm crossmember does have the bolt-on mounts, Rob. But the crossmember is flat with one "ear" of the mount longer than the other to make up for the fact that the OEM crossmember is angled where the mounts attach.

[SMKN TA 95]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

FYI, the Early Classic Enterprises trailing arm crossmember does have the bolt-on mounts, Rob. But the crossmember is flat with one "ear" of the mount longer than the other to make up for the fact that the OEM crossmember is angled where the mounts attach.

I have recently bought the No Limit Trailing arm setup for my truck project, and also picked up the ECE/brothers/etc trailing arm cross member too. I am having some steel bushings made to fit No-Limit's trailing arm setup. All thats needed is a lathe, and some material to make some simple steel bushings to take up the gap due to the smaller width of the monster balls versus stock trailing arm bushings.

I also have a Porterbuilt cross member on order to see which one I like better as far as fitment and exhaust pass through.

[Cbo]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

I have recently bought the No Limit Trailing arm setup for my truck project, and also picked up the ECE/brothers/etc trailing arm cross member too. I am having some steel bushings made to fit No-Limit's trailing arm setup. All thats needed is a lathe, and some material to make some simple steel bushings to take up the gap due to the smaller width of the monster balls versus stock trailing arm bushings.

I also have a Porterbuilt cross member on order to see which one I like better as far as fitment and exhaust pass through.

Let us know how your install goes!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

I have recently bought the No Limit Trailing arm setup for my truck project, and also picked up the ECE/brothers/etc trailing arm cross member too. I am having some steel bushings made to fit No-Limit's trailing arm setup. All thats needed is a lathe, and some material to make some simple steel bushings to take up the gap due to the smaller width of the monster balls versus stock trailing arm bushings.

I also have a Porterbuilt cross member on order to see which one I like better as far as fitment and exhaust pass through.

I was thinking the same thing. What's the dims on your bushings?

[Rickjz]

A question for Rob. I purchased the trailing arm kit for my 71 Blazer.

1: In your installation photos, you show two pan-hard bars connected to the bracket. Are there two?

2: The front trailing arm mount has two holes for the arm to attach. Which one do I use?

3: Should I remove the stock shock brackets from the frame?

Thanks

[Rickjz]

I think I have figured out question number one after going over the previous posts.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rickjz

I think I have figured out question number one after going over the previous posts.

1: In your installation photos, you show two pan-hard bars connected to the bracket. Are there two?

One of those bars is a 'gusset' for the Panhard bar. It triangulates the frame mount.

2: The front trailing arm mount has two holes for the arm to attach. Which one do I use?

Whichever gives you the best geometry for your set-up.

3: Should I remove the stock shock brackets from the frame?

If you have the equipment, why leave them behind? If you don't, find someone to nix them.

[Rickjz]

Thanks for the response. I did remove the shock mounts. What am I looking for regarding rear end geometry? Am I trying to match pinion angle with transmission yoke angle?

[robnolimit]

Thanks for the help Scoti

[effects66]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

I have recently bought the No Limit Trailing arm setup for my truck project, and also picked up the ECE/brothers/etc trailing arm cross member too. I am having some steel bushings made to fit No-Limit's trailing arm setup. All thats needed is a lathe, and some material to make some simple steel bushings to take up the gap due to the smaller width of the monster balls versus stock trailing arm bushings.

I also have a Porterbuilt cross member on order to see which one I like better as far as fitment and exhaust pass through.

Would like to know how the fitment is with the porterbuilt cross member. I currently have the PB crossmember now and was thinking of getting the training arm kit from no limit.

[Coldshot]

Sort of a weird project that I'd like to know if this could be made to work with.
I'm swapping my 51' Chevy body onto a 01' Silverado/sierra frame. I need to shorten the wheel base about 17" and want to ditch the leafs.
If I was to get the PB crossmember and your kit, would I run into any frame width issues you think?

I'm open to any other options you have as well. I saw you have a kit for the stock frame for my truck as well on your site. Would that be better?

Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Coldshot

Sort of a weird project that I'd like to know if this could be made to work with.
I'm swapping my 51' Chevy body onto a 01' Silverado/sierra frame. I need to shorten the wheel base about 17" and want to ditch the leafs.
If I was to get the PB crossmember and your kit, would I run into any frame width issues you think?

I'm open to any other options you have as well. I saw you have a kit for the stock frame for my truck as well on your site. Would that be better?

Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

Well, I won't say that this 'can't' be done, but I'm not sure I would advise this as a good idea. You could install a PB crossmember, but the front trailing arm mounts would need to be swapped for ours, not sure that is as easy as it sounds. And, that is the easy part. The rail shape of the '01 is not really conducive to the trailing arm suspension. More than that, I need to point out that a bigger concern may be width. The 47-54 Chevy's need a WMS (wheel mount surface) width of appx 58 1/2" to set down and fit a normal spaced wheel. The '01 WMS is close to 65" - I don't know for sure, that's web data, as I don't work on them, - you should measure. But this extra width will push the wheels outside the wheel openings and not let the truck sit down. If you want it 'up' that's OK, I guess. So you have this 01 chassis, which gives you front and rear suspension, rear axle, and eng/trans. Now, you have to shorten the frame, you want to change the rear suspension, the rear axle is too wide, and so is the front suspension, Also, I will take a guess that you will want to lower the front at some point. If your OE 3100 chassis is in good shape, start there. the body will fit correctly, and modifying the front/rear suspension will be easier. Just my $.02, Good Luck.

[Coldshot]

Thanks
The width is something I wanted. I know this is the reason people stay away from these frames but I'm planning to radius the fenders for clearance. Seen one truck with it done and I like the look.
I don't have the original chassis and the other reason I'm doing it this way is to use the wiring from the sierra to transplant into the other truck.

I can't shorten the frame as there's not enough from under the cab to shorten what needs to be taken out. I've thought about 4 link and 3 link setups as well but I've been threw your make it handle thread a few times and like this style.

So if I were to just use your kit for the 47-54, besides track width, would it be close enough to work with. The part I'm thinking is going to be an issue would be the coilover mounts.

Thanks again.

Once again if you have something else that would be simpler I'm open to it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[SMKN TA 95]

Mỹ project is going together, and got spacers made to run the No Limit Trailing arms with the Porterbuilt Boxed inner stiffener. These are made out of steel plate on a CNC machine.

[SCOTI]

Nicely done.

[aboyer]

Originally Posted by SMKN TA 95

Mỹ project is going together, and got spacers made to run the No Limit Trailing arms with the Porterbuilt Boxed inner stiffener. These are made out of steel plate on a CNC machine.

Hey SMKN TA95,

Would you be willing to post where you had these made or information about them. I will we willing to buy two of these for my future build.

[effects66]

Originally Posted by aboyer

Hey SMKN TA95,

Would you be willing to post where you had these made or information about them. I will we willing to buy two of these for my future build.

I second that. I have just installed the porter built crossmember and was thinking is upgrading to the no limit trailing arm kit

[implanenuts]

So in one of the posts it sounds like you cannot use original drum brakes due to parking brake cable routing issues. Is that correct or did I miss something? Being bolt on is great but if I then have to swap to disk brakes that would make me second guess.

[Jrainman]

Originally Posted by implanenuts

So in one of the posts it sounds like you cannot use original drum brakes due to parking brake cable routing issues. Is that correct or did I miss something? Being bolt on is great but if I then have to swap to disk brakes that would make me second guess.

No you can use OEM drum brakes with this kit, what was asked was why is there was no bracket ( Tab) to hold the parking brake cable to the No Limit trailing arm so the cable can be routed along the trailing arm Like the OEM trailing arm ,

[implanenuts]

Ok, I thought one of the post's mentioned that the coil-over was in the way of the cable routing.

[SCOTI]

Rob..... 2 questions for you:

1) Was there a reason you chose the sleeve mounting arrangement top & bottom vs a dbl shear bracket set-up?
2) What is the angle on the C/O's? I'm curious is it looks close to what my shocks have & I was worried about angles impacting their performance. Didn't know if its just as important w/the C/O arrangement.