Drivers door seal help!!! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Peanut74 · 04-03-2023, 05:47 PM

Ok, I have been trying to install my door seals. The passenger side went on and after letting it set opens and closes fine. The drivers side has been the total opposite. No matter what I do I can't get the door to close all the way. If I close the door with no seal it shuts fine and is even with the cab. I put the seal on and it will not close all the way. I have tried both a Civic doorseal and new seal. What am I doing wrong?

**HO455** · 04-03-2023, 06:24 PM

Try putting an even layer of grease on the door or the seal (Depending on your paint color Pam will work) then shut the door. Then inspect the grease transfer. You may find that an area shows a wider contact band than the rest. If so the door needs to be shifted away from that area. This may cause your gaps to become less than perfect (Like they were from the factory.

).

**Grumpy old man** · 04-03-2023, 07:11 PM

This video might help .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvw5RhbhPVc

**Trash** · 04-03-2023, 10:14 PM

Try loosening the inner door hinge bolts a little. Sounds like something up front is binding.

Peanut74 · 04-03-2023, 10:57 PM

I swear this truck is possessed!! I went back pulled the seal off and reset the door. Gaps were good and it closed nice. Test fit the seal and the door closes a little harder but acceptable. So I start to glue sections of the seal on and suddenly the door won't close again!!

Before I went and got a can of gas and match I thought I would take a break for the night. Hopefully it's just a small adjustment and everything will work out. I'll go through the video again and everyone's suggestions again. Thanks guys

06rdking · 04-12-2023, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

This video might help .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvw5RhbhPVc

I watched this when I had the same problem as you . I took a 2x4 and a hammer and bent the ( tab ) the door seal fits onto inward and also cut angle cuts in the ends of the seal bulb to let air release faster and I was able to get mine to shut like a new truck. good luck !

Peanut74 · 04-13-2023, 11:58 AM

Well it looks like I finally got it to an acceptable level. I did a combination of beating the snot out of the lip, as in the video, and moving the striker plate out about a 1/16". Now I need to put the sill plate on and hopefully nothing changes.

04-03-2023, 05:47 PM	#1
Peanut74 Registered User Join Date: May 2018 Location: Prattville, AL Posts: 590	Drivers door seal help!!! Ok, I have been trying to install my door seals. The passenger side went on and after letting it set opens and closes fine. The drivers side has been the total opposite. No matter what I do I can't get the door to close all the way. If I close the door with no seal it shuts fine and is even with the cab. I put the seal on and it will not close all the way. I have tried both a Civic doorseal and new seal. What am I doing wrong? Attached Images __________________ -------------------------------------------------------- 1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion) 1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk" 2012 Jeep JKU "Crush" 1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer) 1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)

04-03-2023, 06:24 PM	#2
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 10,804	Re: Drivers door seal help!!! Try putting an even layer of grease on the door or the seal (Depending on your paint color Pam will work) then shut the door. Then inspect the grease transfer. You may find that an area shows a wider contact band than the rest. If so the door needs to be shifted away from that area. This may cause your gaps to become less than perfect (Like they were from the factory. ). __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird. 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

04-03-2023, 07:11 PM	#3
Grumpy old man Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Gods country East,Tn Posts: 8,545	Re: Drivers door seal help!!! This video might help . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvw5RhbhPVc __________________ 1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop

04-03-2023, 10:14 PM	#4
Trash Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Bentonville, AR Posts: 66	Re: Drivers door seal help!!! Try loosening the inner door hinge bolts a little. Sounds like something up front is binding.

04-03-2023, 10:57 PM	#5
Peanut74 Registered User Join Date: May 2018 Location: Prattville, AL Posts: 590	Re: Drivers door seal help!!! I swear this truck is possessed!! I went back pulled the seal off and reset the door. Gaps were good and it closed nice. Test fit the seal and the door closes a little harder but acceptable. So I start to glue sections of the seal on and suddenly the door won't close again!! Before I went and got a can of gas and match I thought I would take a break for the night. Hopefully it's just a small adjustment and everything will work out. I'll go through the video again and everyone's suggestions again. Thanks guys __________________ -------------------------------------------------------- 1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion) 1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk" 2012 Jeep JKU "Crush" 1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer) 1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)

04-13-2023, 11:58 AM	#7
Peanut74 Registered User Join Date: May 2018 Location: Prattville, AL Posts: 590	Re: Drivers door seal help!!! Well it looks like I finally got it to an acceptable level. I did a combination of beating the snot out of the lip, as in the video, and moving the striker plate out about a 1/16". Now I need to put the sill plate on and hopefully nothing changes. __________________ -------------------------------------------------------- 1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion) 1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk" 2012 Jeep JKU "Crush" 1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer) 1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)



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