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Old 05-11-2019, 07:06 PM   #1
WorkinLonghorn
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One more electrical question.

If you turn the Ign.switch to the left (Acc) on a '69 will the gauge needles move toward the correct position? Mine does not do this and I think they used to, and I think this may be related to why my wipers don't get any power. I remember changing out the Ign. switch about the time this all started. Thanks, -BA
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'69 GMC C2500 Custom Camper, 8 1/2' bed (same as Chevy "Longhorn"), 350 ci. mild RV cam, NP 435 CR 4spd. Trans., 3.73 Dana-60 open.Camper and Trailer wiring, PS, PB, AC, tach , three gas tanks, 2nd owner, Work-Truck supreme. Best $300 I ever spent.
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Old 05-11-2019, 09:39 PM   #2
toolboxchev
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Re: One more electrical question.

I just checked my truck. No the gauges do not move when in the Accessory Position. They do when moved to the run position.

Request to move to the Electrical Section...VetteVet is really good at this stuff.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:03 AM   #3
dmjlambert
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Re: One more electrical question.

Fuel and temp gauges and warning lights get their power from a single fuse. It is the only fuse on the panel that is not powered in the accessory position. Here is a thread with details about what parts of the fuse box get power in the various positions of the ignition switch. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=741245

Last edited by dmjlambert; 05-12-2019 at 10:04 AM. Reason: clarity
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:29 AM   #4
dmjlambert
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Re: One more electrical question.

Regarding wiper not working after replacing ignition switch: Use a tester, such as one of those test lights with a poker end and a ground wire,

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Attach the ground clip to a nice clean bare metal ground point. Test that you are getting power at both sides of the wiper fuse when the key is on and when it is in the accessory position. It should get power in both positions. Test the other fuses in the accessory section of the fuse panel (the different zones of the fuse panel are covered in that thread I gave previously).

Here is a picture of the plastic connector that goes on the ignition switch (picture from one of VetteVet's posts a while back).



Sometimes what happens is you push that connector onto your new ignition switch, and one of the terminals inside it does not engage the switch, but instead it slips out the back of the connector. Look up under there directly at the connector and make sure all the terminals are fully seated. Each terminal in the connector is supposed to have a metal tab that latches into the plastic connector and holds it in place, but if that tab is broken or the plastic ledge that the tab engages is worn or broken, the terminal will pop out the back of the connector.
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:32 AM   #5
WorkinLonghorn
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Re: One more electrical question.

Great info here, thanks a lot. I'll get on this and report back to close the thread. Brian
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'69 GMC C2500 Custom Camper, 8 1/2' bed (same as Chevy "Longhorn"), 350 ci. mild RV cam, NP 435 CR 4spd. Trans., 3.73 Dana-60 open.Camper and Trailer wiring, PS, PB, AC, tach , three gas tanks, 2nd owner, Work-Truck supreme. Best $300 I ever spent.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:02 PM   #6
WorkinLonghorn
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Re: One more electrical question.

I finally (now that there is no chance of further rain) took the time to trouble shoot the no-wiper condition.

With key ON or Acc, 12.5v found at the fuse (both sides). 12.5v found at the motor connection Yellow wire. Reached through the empty hole where the radio once lived and discovered that the connection to the back of the switch was hanging loose. I must have knocked it off when I reconnected the defrost hose in that area. Not an easy reach at all but I managed to get it back on. Now I'm all set for next year, if it ever rains here again. -BA
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'69 GMC C2500 Custom Camper, 8 1/2' bed (same as Chevy "Longhorn"), 350 ci. mild RV cam, NP 435 CR 4spd. Trans., 3.73 Dana-60 open.Camper and Trailer wiring, PS, PB, AC, tach , three gas tanks, 2nd owner, Work-Truck supreme. Best $300 I ever spent.
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