1971 GMC Fenderside 4x4 Build

[Carl Spangler]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Well the passenger side looks like it only needs the outer rocker, but the driver side needs it all. Until we get it up and start cutting into it, and get a really good look I don't think we'll really know. Not sure yet if we'll do it ourselves, I may have Terry do it. Yep, got the manifold fixed, and the carb kit done. I may take you up on that lift. We have to lift it onto some saw horses to get a better look at it.

Did you do the carb 'rebuild' yourself? If so, did you check the throttle shaft slop? i.e. the clearance between the throttle shaft and carb body. In a pro-rebuild they ream out the body and press in a brass bushing. When done properly, the throttle shaft will rotate freely but have an almost interference fit. This little detail will help to keep air from leaking past the shaft and messing up the air-fuel ratio. Ask me how I know..................

Congrats on getting the floor out. Looks like "fun".

[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by Carl Spangler

Did you do the carb 'rebuild' yourself? If so, did you check the throttle shaft slop? i.e. the clearance between the throttle shaft and carb body. In a pro-rebuild they ream out the body and press in a brass bushing. When done properly, the throttle shaft will rotate freely but have an almost interference fit. This little detail will help to keep air from leaking past the shaft and messing up the air-fuel ratio. Ask me how I know..................

Congrats on getting the floor out. Looks like "fun".

Hey thanks for the tip. No, I got the carb rebuilt by someone else. Very interesting.
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[Carl Spangler]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Hey thanks for the tip. No, I got the carb rebuilt by someone else. Very interesting.
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Just turn the throttle shaft so that the butterflies are 'open': At that point you can try to wiggle the shaft. The throttle should easily open and close but there should be (virtually) no sideways movement between the throttle shaft and body.

I used this repair kit to fix my Monojet carb: https://quadrajetparts.com/carbureto...ott-p-286.html

Doing this bushing repair to my (wobbly shaft) Monojet made a quite noticeable improvement in how the carb/engine performed.

[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by Carl Spangler

Just turn the throttle shaft so that the butterflies are 'open': At that point you can try to wiggle the shaft. The throttle should easily open and close but there should be (virtually) no sideways movement between the throttle shaft and body.

I used this repair kit to fix my Monojet carb: https://quadrajetparts.com/carbureto...ott-p-286.html

Doing this bushing repair to my (wobbly shaft) Monojet made a quite noticeable improvement in how the carb/engine performed.

Excellent - thanks.

A few more pics, got some painting started today. Included some of the stamped numbers.
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[DeadheadNM]

Quick work!

[StingRay]

Ryan the cab should be braced diagonally up and across the cab as well as triangulated horizontally. Be very careful as now it can twist on you if you are not careful.

[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by StingRay

Ryan the cab should be braced diagonally up and across the cab as well as triangulated horizontally. Be very careful as now it can twist on you if you are not careful.

Got the floor in today - far from easy for 2 of us, but we willed it into place. Still lots to do but happy we’ve got this far. All the bolts are in place on the pillars so we could clamp and tac. Next up is kick plates, then bottom pillars, outer rockers, and cab corners.
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[57taskforce]

Looking great, nice progress!

[Carl Spangler]

Very fast progress there! Make sure the doors fit and open/close properly before welding in the floor.

[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by Carl Spangler

Very fast progress there! Make sure the doors fit and open/close properly before welding in the floor.

Yes will do. We left the original front and back pillars in to bolt the floor to, along with bracing, hoping all of that will help keep it square. But we will be checking all of our panels before final welding.
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[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Yes will do. We left the original front and back pillars in to bolt the floor to, along with bracing, hoping all of that will help keep it square. But we will be checking all of our panels before final welding.
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[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

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Before and after. Progress continues
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[Ol Blue K20]

Looking good! You're on a roll.

[DeadheadNM]

Looks like you'll be ready for summer driving.

[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Looks like you'll be ready for summer driving.

Hoping so - cab, front fenders, and hood will be sent out to blaster next week and then primed/painted while we work on the box. Here are some pics of the progress.
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[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Hoping so - cab, front fenders, and hood will be sent out to blaster next week and then primed/painted while we work on the box. Here are some pics of the progress.
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I realize all of these pics are sideways but I refuse to take double the pictures different ways in my phone as I want these for an album down the road.
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[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

I realize all of these pics are sideways but I refuse to take double the pictures different ways in my phone as I want these for an album down the road.
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[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

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I may go with this look. I had a friend do a quick photoshop. Not sure yet, but need to make up my mind pretty quick Shout out to whoever this truck is. It’s regularly orange and white. Hope you don’t mind me using it for reference.
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['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Excellent - thanks.

A few more pics, got some painting started today. Included some of the stamped numbers.
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Nice progress.
I'm curious what ''dress code'' is stamped on your block, just aft of the distributor hole.
Sequence would be like: A1234BC[D].
A 292 block I have is dressed, F0626UH = Flint, JUN 26th 292 w/manual trans 1967/68.

[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Nice progress.
I'm curious what ''dress code'' is stamped on your block, just aft of the distributor hole.
Sequence would be like: A1234BC[D].
A 292 block I have is dressed, F0626UH = Flint, JUN 26th 292 w/manual trans 1967/68.

Thanks,
Let me look and get back to you.
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[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

Thanks,
Let me look and get back to you.
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This?

['68OrangeSunshine]

Those are the casting numbers. It was run on Conveyor line 2. The clock like thing points to what shift it was cast on. [Guessing 2nd shift 5 PM -- 1700 hrs]
3394258 is the block casting number.
The numbers I'm curious about are hand stamped into the machined pad right after the distributor hole. Sometimes painted over. Sometimes milled off by rebuilders. Sometimes restanped with rebuilders' own numbers. Occasionally intact.
From that shot, pan your camera forward to the distributor area.

[Ryanz]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Those are the casting numbers. It was run on Conveyor line 2. The clock like thing points to what shift it was cast on. [Guessing 2nd shift 5 PM -- 1700 hrs]
3394258 is the block casting number.
The numbers I'm curious about are hand stamped into the machined pad right after the distributor hole. Sometimes painted over. Sometimes milled off by rebuilders. Sometimes restanped with rebuilders' own numbers. Occasionally intact.
From that shot, pan your camera forward to the distributor area.

This?
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[Carl Spangler]

Not there................... see below lower right of image. The machined pad right behind the distributor clamp (see yellow circle). If it's painted over you will have to used paint remover to see the faint stamp. Don't sand/scrape the paint off.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Ryanz

This?
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No. That's a nice shot of your head casting number.
Casting numbers are made in the Mold, and each identical piece that is then molded has the same casting number. Dress Numbers are hand-struck by the factory machinist, when the engine is fully assembled. The first part tells the Plant. and Date, the last 2 or 3 letters tell the application the block was originally intended for. [So a transplanted engine has the numbers for its old vehicle.]
Here are three of mine.
F1116PG....A 1963 model year 292 [spare core]
F0626UH......Came out of a '67 K/20 Stepside in a junkyard
F0627XAE.....Original engine in my '68 C/10 when I bought it in 1973. Spent 1977 to 2002 in crates, while I ran the above block for 250,000 miles. Rebuilt and installed in 2005.