Cuttin' a Turret Top

[BigJackDaddy]

Mr. Potato Head: How did I get stuck with you as a moving buddy?
Rex: Everyone else was picked.
- Toy Story 1995


It probably doesn't look too different from a lot of the previous posts other than paint on the front end, but there's a lot of things getting done that nobody will ever notice.

For instance, if you look at the front of the truck in the previous posts, you'll notice an ugly cut-out on each side of the radiator. Evidently one of the previous owners were unable to get to the top of the front body mounting bolts and had a torch that was a little too handy.

With the grill in place, these holes were mostly hidden from plain view, but the cuts went through the front sheet metal <em>and</em> the radiator support. Now's the time to fix it:

This pic is as I started to fix it and the next one one shows the completed patches.



Each front fender also had a good size hole rotted out in the rear from the drain holes being plugged for too many years. No big deal, I know. But progress isn't slowing. It's just somewhat more detailed.

FWIW, as you look at the pics, know that the pieces are fully attached. No more mock-up with a bolt here and there.







Progress continues.

[GRIMSS]

Looking good BigJackDaddy.

[hotrodsbyray]

this truck is awesome
i have a 57 short step side and a big ole front end like that would make it look like one of those 60's cartoon cars! i love that look.
in 55 - 57 did they make trucks like this with a standard size cab with the big front sheet metal???
if so - i want one!! is there a certain badge number like 3200 or 3600 or something to look for?
anybody know about one some where in the southeast (i live just outside nashville, tn) - i want one bad!!

[1-ton of fun]

it would be bigger than a 3600

[BlueJeep]

And yes, it is the same size cab.

[BigJackDaddy]

I went the traditional "score and crack" method. The pics show it in place with only a few old gasket pieces around holding it in. Now that I'm sure it fits, I can comfortably finish the metalwork and then re-install.

[nuke1]

I dig it and thanks for the idea on cutting the glass

[BigJackDaddy]

Although I’ve still been going at it, there’s just not too much exciting to post. I’ve been doing a lot of sanding lately inside the cab and some pictures are updated in the gallery. In addition to working the compound inside curves of the ‘B’ pillars, I’ve filled the dash holes that will not be used any longer and now have the modified brake pedal mounted.




As you know, the ‘58 originally had pedals that went through the floorboards and the newer chassis uses pedals that swing from under the dash.





I also started doing the doors. ' got the driver's window channel & vent window frame disassembled and I figured out where I need to cut it for it to fit back in. Good thing for me it's not even stainless, but all the rubber is too brittle to even try to save and the felt is gone.




Here's one of where its been welded back together after the 4" chop came out.




And the difference in the vents. I cut the second one down as well after taking this picture.

[55dude]

cool project! can't say i have ever seen one of these chopped before. i have seen one of the LCF trucks chopped and it was to bad it never got finished.

[BigJackDaddy]

Here's a little something I threw together last night while reminiscing and thinking about future mods. The music and truck are from the same year.

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by BigJackDaddy

Here's a little something I threw together last night while reminiscing and thinking about future mods. The music and truck are from the same year.

That was cool ! Nice work !

[JML55]

I like the video , very cool.

[_Ogre]

saw your truck, saw your website; any updates on your viking?
last video on coloradomelons.com was you sawing the frame short
very cool, like the viking frontend

[BigJackDaddy]

It's gone through some transformations over the years and it pretty-much looks like this right now. The average person still never even notices the chop & just sees some old work truck, which I'm totally good with since I did it for me.


I hope to get back to work on pretty-ing it up this summer... a few other irons in the fire prevent it from being a priority at the moment.

But I did take and old GM bracket I had lying around from a passenger-side under-slung accessory and adapted it to fit a second alternator (which was also on the shelf from some other vehicle). In this image I was checking clearance and alignment and still needed to make a piece of flat going to the top bolt of the bottom alt to hold it secure.


I have a couple of larger CS models that would put out more, but this 12SI already had the V-groove pulley so I went with it to get everything lined-up on the front of the engine.


I'll add a control panel to vary the input for 110V and need to order the diodes to replace the avalanche ones GM used to rectify the 3ph out [image right] to be able to do any adequate DC welding "in the field".

[BigJackDaddy]

I've used traditional A/C compressors as a source of onboard compressed air in the past. The refrigerant carries the lubrication in those so they're not supposed to last too long when you use them that way. Although I haven't had one seize up, I picked-up a York style that has it's own oil reservoir in its crankcase and will be making brackets for it when I'm done with the onboard welder / 3ph source.


Just like the cylindrical compressor, the wire running to to back of the pulley controls an electromagnetic clutch. Run 12VDC through the air tank's pressure switch to this wire for on/off operation at your desired pressures. Add an additional switch inline with that and you can ensure it's disengaged when you're cranking the engine or wanting the little extra for passing.

[mr48chev]

Somehow I missed the thread the first time around but the chop shows that you really did and do your homework before starting on something.

One of my friends got his hands on a belt sander designed for glass work and uses it to either cut the glass down or do the fine tuning for the fit. I haven't been up to his place to see exactly how it works though.

Years ago in Texas when you could find those York compressors all over the place and brackets to mount them on what ever engine you wanted to in any wrecking yard I had a couple of friends who had them set up as air compressors on their trucks using the air tanks off semi trucks for reserve air. One of them that I rode around in quite a bit sure worked great for airing up flat tires on cars and trucks when we went out looking for project cars or parts cars. I had one rigged up as a stationary air compressor that used and old AC refrigerant tank that I bummed from a heat and AC guy when he was going to throw it away when it was empty. Crude but I aired up a lot of tires with it.

[1project2many]

I've used traditional A/C compressors as a source of onboard compressed air in the past. The refrigerant carries the lubrication in those so they're not supposed to last too long when you use them that way. Although I haven't had one seize up, I picked-up a York style that has it's own oil reservoir in its crankcase and will be making brackets for it when I'm done with the onboard welder / 3ph source.

We have some experience using these compressors in air applications as we have three transit buses that use them. The a/c compressor is not the same as the purpose built air compressor. The air compressor has different piston / rings and uses modified oiling to reduce the chance of oil exiting through the exhaust ports. At one point we were not able to purchase the air version for a reasonable price so we purchased an a/c compressor and disassembled it to note the differences. We were able to make some modifications and make it work. I believe I have some photos to help illustrate...

[MARTINSR]

That chop work looks awesome! One piece of advice if you haven't done it, have the windshield cut before you call the top done. Cut the glass and then fit it to the top because you will will need to modify the lower corners of the roof to fit the newly cut glass.

Don't send it off thinking you are done to have the glass shop break three new windshields for you trying to fit the glass to a top that it can't fit!


Ask me how I know..

Brian

[_Ogre]

was wondering the same thing (when i posted 2 yrs ago)
top pic shows a windshield in place
i like that viking

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

was wondering the same thing (when i posted 2 yrs ago)
top pic shows a windshield in place
i like that viking

LOL, oh yeah, didn't see that.

Brian

[BigJackDaddy]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

was wondering the same thing (when i posted 2 yrs ago)

Ogre, I kind of fell off the edge of the world for a while as far as this board and the '58 are concerned. I came back to find your post and was motivated to update.

It's good to be back at it.

Thank you.

[BigJackDaddy]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Somehow I missed the thread the first time around but the chop shows that you really did and do your homework before starting on something.

One of my friends got his hands on a belt sander designed for glass work and uses it to either cut the glass down or do the fine tuning for the fit.

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

That chop work looks awesome! One piece of advice if you haven't done it, have the windshield cut before you call the top done.
Brian

Thanks to both of you for the kind words. They're greatly appreciated.

Here's a link to a page with some older video about glass cutting I did for a friend who was working on something similar if your interested:

[_Ogre]

''remember: you can't cut curved glass''

you make it look way too easy, that might be from your can-do attitude
sounds like an electric router under the plywood
what bit did you use?

not that i'd ever chop a top, i'm too tall