47-55.1 If I had to do Over Again.... What would I change On My Build?

[e015475]

Don't know what I'd change since I have not driven it yet (this fall I hope) but I'll comment on the investment aspect.

I've got about 3-400 hours of paid labor in the metal work and paint and about 1200 hours of my own time in my truck.

I figure I could recover my parts cost and paid labor if I sold the truck - but my labor is a 'donation'

For me, the truck is just an excuse to go play in the shop and I'm not too concerned about finishing it and what it is worth when it is done. My big objective is to not be upside down on paid labor and parts so I have money for my next project without having to dip into family funds. (read as 'tell my wife I'm going to spend some money')

I started this truck with the vague nostalgic notion that I'd like to have a truck like one I'd seen as a hot rod in high school. That's a pretty flimsy pretense for having a project in the shop to play with.

Of the dozen or so car/airplane projects I've over the last 40 years, I've only managed to recover some of my labor on two of them - one at about $7/hr and another at $10. The only thing they had in common was that both were sold on ebay.

[joedoh]

yeah adding up labor would make me sad haha, it has to be a donation.

"playing" is a good way to think about it, I am only on contract about 16 weeks of the year and most of that is waiting for approvals, so I would go nuts sitting around.

[mr48chev]

One thing I don't regret is never putting the needs of the truck in front of the needs of the family.

Before Jean and I got married I wanted to drag race pretty seriously and had planed to have a dedicated race car to race with. Then we got married, our son was born and family responsibility took precedence over any form or race car. When we were first married I ran around with some Central Texas dirt track racers that raced at Heart O Texas speedway in Waco or the Devil's Bowl in the DFW area. Going to a guys house and seeing his kids eating beans and weenies or boiled hot dogs every time I was over there while the race car always had the new part it needed settled it for me that my kids would never do without because of a car.

I put the 48 together in three months in 1973 to drive it from McGregor Tx to Tulsa for the street rod nationals. That was going from a running and driving 194 Chevy II powered beater to a painted and upholstered truck in three months. It did lack a lot but it looked pretty decent and we had about 400 1973 dollars in it at the time.

I bought a stack of parts from a guy in Waco who had had a V8 powered AD that he had sold and then the kid who bought it broke or bent the frame by loading cement blocks in front of the tailgate and trying to do a wheelie. The kids dad made some threats and made him buy the truck back and he parted it out. I got nice running boards, super nice rear fenders, a chrome seat frame and some other pieces for pocket change because the guy took a liking to me and donated them as much as sold them to me. I wheeled it past his house to show him after getting back from the street rod nationals and he was pretty happy with the results.
did
Still as 1project2many said about his, I scrounged, traded and did what ever to keep the cost down including hauling a load of parts to the swap meet at Pate Museum so that I could sell them and buy parts I wanted for the truck. The Z28 Rally wheels came from a coworker who had them in his garage after selling his Z28 with mags on it. 25.00 for those missing one hub cap. The rear axle came from another coworker who was junking a 61 Chevy. We pulled it out one night and the next night at work another coworker cut off all the brackets with the torch at work for me. He also welded on a pair of spring pads I had scrounged up.
The grill was made of bars from several grills that I bought at a couple wrecking yards for a couple bucks each. Lots of drilling and pop riveting later I had a presentable grill The roll and pleat seat was done by Bobby Russel of Waco in his home shop in the evening after he worked in his dad's upholstery shop in the day time. I'd hate to have to pay what that seat would cost today but it was beyond nice when he did it and he also did the tonneau cover for it.
I do wish I had been as worried about the mechanical aspect of the redo as the cosmetic. The truck looked great when we left for Tulsa on a Thursday morning but it was one of those eventful trips with gold paint clogging up the carb and filter, a coil failing while crossing the red river into Oklahoma because we had never driven it that far before and the yoke welded it's self to the tail shaft a few miles further up the road and I limped into a gas station where I borrowed a jack and something to block it up with and Bob Davis of the F100 world and an instructor at TSTI and I pulled the trans and took off in his truck to a little wrecking yard where I bought the remnants of a trans for 10 bucks and pulled both tail shafts and swapped the other one into my trans and then locked the gate behind us as the yards owner had asked when he left an hour before. Back to the gas station, stab the trans, put the extra yoke I had on the driveshaft, install it, fill it with grease, pay the kid at the station after we filled up with gas and on our way to Clairmore OK to to spend the night in the Will Rogers Hotel. We drove home on Sunday without a mishap except my wife was sleeping with her head on my lap and her bare feet out the window and headed south though Oklahoma and Texas she got the bottoms of her feet sunburned.

[gigamanx]

Love a good story! I can't imagine doing a whole truck in 3 months. You mustn't have slept much.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by e015475

Don't know what I'd change since I have not driven it yet (this fall I hope) but I'll comment on the investment aspect.

I've got about 3-400 hours of paid labor in the metal work and paint and about 1200 hours of my own time in my truck.

I figure I could recover my parts cost and paid labor if I sold the truck - but my labor is a 'donation'

For me, the truck is just an excuse to go play in the shop and I'm not too concerned about finishing it and what it is worth when it is done. My big objective is to not be upside down on paid labor and parts so I have money for my next project without having to dip into family funds. (read as 'tell my wife I'm going to spend some money')

I started this truck with the vague nostalgic notion that I'd like to have a truck like one I'd seen as a hot rod in high school. That's a pretty flimsy pretense for having a project in the shop to play with.

Of the dozen or so car/airplane projects I've over the last 40 years, I've only managed to recover some of my labor on two of them - one at about $7/hr and another at $10. The only thing they had in common was that both were sold on ebay.

My time "donation" is no different than any other hobby. Some people spend time on video games, some on hiking and biking, I just sit in the garage and build stuff. I certainly wouldn't want to have to pay bills with my car building lol.

[iriereggaeman]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

I'm really happy with my truck overall. It's stock with the exception of an electric fan, efi conversion, and a sway bar. My biggest mistake was using the stock tank for EFI. It's required several attempts to reduce the fuel smell in the cab over the years. It's good now, but the easiest answer would have been to move the tank under the bed.

I wish I had understood that I would not be "going back" after the EFI swap. I would have handled the harness and ecm placement differently.

If I'd realized that I would be keeping the truck for 30+ years I might have installed power steering and power brakes at the beginning. These days its tough to find time, money, and ambition together.

May I ask what EFI conversion you used? I'm considering the same for my '72 K10 Suburban small block 350.
Thanks!

[mr48chev]

One thing to remember on the money spent no matter how much or little one spends on his/her truck. There are very few activities or hobbies that one can do that don't require an expenditure to do and some of those are money spent and gone and only the memories to hold on to. I've got a buddy who lives to fly to Vegas for a long weekend about 3 times a year. He really has no other interests and doesn't care about yours. Flies to Vegas, drinks and gambles and maybe sees a show for a few days and comes back and talks about it until he goes again. I live a half mile from a golf course and watch the constant stream of golfers towing their golf carts and heading to or from the course. Not cheap but they are happy. A lot of folks on here would love to have one of those guys annual golf budget to spend on their trucks though.

That Bayliner I have sitting out front has a 60 gallon tank that takes 4 buck a gallon gas and the truck uses a tank of gas to get it to the closest water that I can launch it in. The fishing is good on the river right down below Hogfarms place though. I don't use it near as

[mr48chev]

All I am going to say on the money spent on our trucks is as long as it is well spent and not frittered away or you don't get ripped off It is probably no more than what you would spend on what ever activity you did if you weren't building a truck.

Golf? soft ball tournaments? season tickets to one or another sports teams games? Trips to Vegas or the casino? Team penning competition? Any boat related activity including Jet ski, wake boat, fishing,ai water skiing or dragging the kids around the lake on tubes? Hiking trails in the mountains almost every weekend and traveling lots of miles to get to said trails. I've got friends who do every one of those activities
and their investment is substantial even the dude who hikes as he has a late model suv and wears 300 buck hiking boots and has a 500 buck special design back pack. His gear to hike a trail overnight probably has more money tied up in it than some of the guys trucks do here not counting the Suv as everything he has is the latest and best there is.


As I said before I am guilty of buying parts and then changing my mind time and time again. Then I have parts like all the bolt on pieces of a Dakota front suspension that I bought to go with an Industrial Chassis cross member only to have them quit making them as they got tired of dealing with mail order. I just sold a set of valve covers and chrome headers for a big block that I bought in the early 90's and never installed. Got more for both than I paid though. The headers were absolute show quality even though I had bought them from JC Whitney. Came from Immerso enterprises as in Ernie.

Shows: I may be one of the few on here who loves taking my truck to shows even though I quit worrying about getting awards years ago. I can remember when I started looking around at events as soon as I got there comparing other trucks to mine and trying to figure out if I could beat them out of an award. I even knew a bunch of street rodders in Texas in the 70's who would call around to see where certain clubs were going to an event the next weekend and then heading somewhere else in hopes of getting a trophy or two. I don't like the title "best" on show awards as it always gets someone's nose out of joint when their rig doesn't win. If I want trophies I'll enter one of the indoor shows in the region where they judge the rigs with the ISCA judging sheets and let the points fall where they may.
I go to events to see other folks rigs, get ideas and visit with long time car friends and make a few new friends in the process. A few guys who probably don't even know my name have figured out that I am the guy from the area who post car show photos on the net either here, on the HAMB or on FB.

[MikeB]

When replacing the 250 six/3-speed manual with a 350/TH350, I wish I would have used a manual trans, like a TKO500, or an AutoGear Muncie with 2.98 1st gear. Or at least kept the clutch pedal and linkage instead of selling it. With a manual trans, I could have kept my old 3-on-the-tree column. I even had a brand new "blank" shift bowl that was used with 4-speed manual trucks, so the column wouldn't have an empty shift handle hole.

Also, instead of new stock leaf springs and dropped hangers I would used dropped springs, or maybe the entire kit from RideTech.

[1957 Chief]

I regret not sticking with my original plan of making a streetable 500hp LS/T56 primered 1957 daily driver truck with just the basics in it.

Instead, I have a supercharged 1000hp LS/full roll cage/painted up/air ride/AC/full power, radical trailer queen, that I cant wait to finish so I can sell it, and go back to my original plan.

Bubba

[Marty68]

i just re read this whole thread. the common theme is regret of taking it all apart and not getting it back together. 2007 ish i bought a 68 short step that was supposed to be able to run and drive. no compression and junk trans. my Dad a retired painter that i had worked with for several years talked me into fixing the rust.. the project stalled. it sat in the garage unfinished, i bought a 91 gmc "daily driver" once again dad talked me into fixing the rust. Dad passed away last year and i decided. i am selling some stuff to buy a driver. i sold the 68 sold a running driving 51 4dr. to buy the 51.
i just paid a shop to instal a t5 i had bought and a s10 4x4 rear end, MustangII and coil rear.. my wife has drove it a few times already and said "you dont know how much grief you saved me buy payng someone to do it"... "i dont want to hel you restore the suspension on any truck"... i did start my 91 and move it to the other side of the garage... spring it will get finished

[crossfire84]

Regret #1 I would of bought a restored 50 then modified it for my needs, when I look back would of Been much cheaper in the long run.

Regret# 2 I would of purchased the extra long wiring kit and mounted it behind the seats on the back wall of cab. Just not enough room under dash. Like they say trying to shove 10lbs of you know what in a 5lb bag.

Regret#3 don't buy cheap weather stripping, I had to replace the rear window gasket that cracked in the corners, the truck isn't on the road yet, went with Steele rubber now what a difference. I need to replace the front gasket as well, you bet Steele rubber again. Don't be cheap you'll pay twice.

[65blackfleetside]

Wow this thread should be a must read for anyone before they start on a build of any year make or model!!

I would like to add another to my original list:

Don't waste money on new aftermarket door Latches and for that matter always buy the OEM or top quality/most expensive repo parts first. Buying cheap you will always pay twice!

I tried 2 different $45.00 new aftermarket Door latches i am sure they are "made in china" or possibly Tiawan? Neither afttermarket latch fit or worked the door correctly. I was able to track down a NOS "NEW in the box GM latch on Ebay for $80.00- So I ended up buying 3 latches wasting time installing all 3 instead of just going OEM the first time around.

I thought about bear claws I know they are a superior design than the OEM latch but didn't want to go through the pain and suffering of the install and cutting up the doors.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 65blackfleetside

I tried 2 different $45.00 new aftermarket Door latches i am sure they are "made in china" or possibly Tiawan? Neither afttermarket latch fit or worked the door correctly. I was able to track down a NOS "NEW in the box GM latch on Ebay for $80.00- So I ended up buying 3 latches wasting time installing all 3 instead of just going OEM the first time around.

Had a similar experience with rocker panels for a 69 C10 (back around 1990). Ended up paying around 3 times a much for OEM parts at a Chevy dealer, but they were heavier gauge, had nicer bends, fit perfectly, and are still on the truck 29 years later with zero rust.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Regret #3: Cheaping out on the steering column with an eBay special instead of a quality ididit or flaming river.

I'd add, cheaping out on trying to use a 110v welder when life got so much easier with a proper 240v MIG welder.

If it's a Chinese tilt column, I've read were the tilt mechanism can break which separates the top shaft from the bottom shaft. Scary stuff!
Details here: https://www.nzdra.co.nz/racer-info/h...n-safety-alert

As for the welder, using a friend's department store 120v MIG a couple times pushed me towards a 230 volt MillerMatic 175 that I bought 15 years ago! Not only more current, but higher duty cycle.

[MikeB]

To the guys with noisy electric fuel pumps:

Have a friend with an inexpensive Carter pump mounted to the frame that was super noisy. You could actually hear it from the driveway when the car was coming down the street! We ended up re-mounting the pump with vibration isolators, and also used a short section of rubber hose on each end instead of hard line.

I have to say it's much quieter now that the frame and fuel line aren't "transmitting" the noise. In fact you can only hear it with ignition on/engine not running. Sound deadener and heat insulation on the floor also helped.

[65blackfleetside]

Mike B- I may be a candidate for those rubber insulators. I have a corvette style returnless external walboro pump mounted under cab that screams like a sears router. ( I am running a Gen 3 LS motor.

I thought this walboro may have been defective- Speedway sent me another one still very loud. I will try these isolating feet and see what happens?


OK add one more to my list: LOl

.... If anyone is building an LS and have not plumed their fuel system yet- : Get yourself an in take pump! They run cooler submerged in fuel - have to work less hard to do the same thing. But most of all they are quiet as a mouse at play :-)

OK maybe with all of these do overs I need to build myself another truck to apply all of this newly learned knowledge!!!

[jweb]

Originally Posted by 65blackfleetside

Mike B- I may be a candidate for those rubber insulators. I have a corvette style returnless external walboro pump mounted under cab that screams like a sears router. ( I am running a Gen 3 LS motor.

I thought this walboro may have been defective- Speedway sent me another one still very loud. I will try these isolating feet and see what happens?


OK add one more to my list: LOl

.... If anyone is building an LS and have not plumed their fuel system yet- : Get yourself an in take pump! They run cooler submerged in fuel - have to work less hard to do the same thing. But most of all they are quiet as a mouse at play :-)

OK maybe with all of these do overs I need to build myself another truck to apply all of this newly learned knowledge!!!

Not to side track this thread but this is odd. I have an LS with the same filter/regulator and pump mounted under the cab and it is really quiet. My Walboro came with a rubber sleeve and mounting bracket, did yours? Also is your a stock behind the seat tank? If so, where is the feed line for your fuel pump?

[65blackfleetside]

Originally Posted by jweb

Not to side track this thread but this is odd. I have an LS with the same filter/regulator and pump mounted under the cab and it is really quiet. My Walboro came with a rubber sleeve and mounting bracket, did yours? Also is your a stock behind the seat tank? If so, where is the feed line for your fuel pump?

I am using a stock S10 tank (S10 frame too ) so the tank is mounted at about the same height as the pump. Not sure if that matters? I mounted pump as low as I could on the frame. Single line no return . I checked fuel rail with gauge and its Putting out the required 58PSI. I am also using the foam rubber sleeve that goes over pump to help with noise.

I have had others tell me too that it should not be that loud. Not sure what the issue is?
The Good thing is I have the cab triple insulated so at least it can not be hear inside.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by 65blackfleetside

I am using a stock S10 tank (S10 frame too ) so the tank is mounted at about the same height as the pump. Not sure if that matters? I mounted pump as low as I could on the frame. Single line no return . I checked fuel rail with gauge and its Putting out the required 58PSI. I am also using the foam rubber sleeve that goes over pump to help with noise.

I have had others tell me too that it should not be that loud. Not sure what the issue is?
The Good thing is I have the cab triple insulated so at least it can not be hear inside.

If your pump is pulling the fuel from the top of the tank that could be the cause. I have a stock behind the seat tank. I added a bung to the bottom of the tank so the fuel just runs down to the pump.

I did an LS swap on an '86 Cutlass last year and used a Tanks Inc. tank with in tank pump and it made a ton of noise. So an in tank pump may not always be better.

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by 65blackfleetside

Also...If I had to do over again i would not have gone to the trouble of installing power windows . The first set of generic hot rod motors just would not work. with the 49-54 curved doors. The second set were more like a stock regulator with bolt on motor were very $$ expensive.
Honestly this cab is so small its very easy to reach over and roll up or down the windows. These trucks are not big like modern trucks. I wasted dozens of hours and several hundred dollars wanting power windows.

I'm glad to have read this. I sort of wanted to keep the manual windows so my kids would know what they are. You just sealed the deal.

[solidaxel]

uel Tank Return Line Bung Kit, Universal
Fuel Tank Return Line Bung Kit, Universal
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Universal Fuel Tank Return Line Bung KitUniversal Fuel Tank Return Line Bung KitUniversal Fuel Tank Return Line Bung KitUniversal Fuel Tank Return Line Bung Kit


Part #:40004-9
Weight:1.00 lbs
Our price:$25.00
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CA Prop 65 Warning - cancer and reproductive harm www.p65warnings.ca.gov

The Fuel Tank Return Fitting provides a threaded hole in the fuel tank without having to reach inside the tank. If you are planning on running fuel injection, you will need a return line to the tank. This kit allows you to add the threaded bung with out having to do any welding. If you can drill a 1/2" hole you can do this. It is that simple!

Kit includes:
Bung
9/16"-18 to 6AN Fitting
Gasket
All necessary hardware
Notes:
Will work on material up to 1/4" thick.
No Welding required

This may be helpful for a tank that has had fuel in it, no welding

[vintovka]

I would have finished it in 1999. Instead i waited till now with sky high prices on parts and labor (and too old to do much of the work)

[65blackfleetside]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

uel Tank Return Line Bung Kit, Universal
Fuel Tank Return Line Bung Kit, Universal
View detailed images (4)
Universal Fuel Tank Return Line Bung KitUniversal Fuel Tank Return Line Bung KitUniversal Fuel Tank Return Line Bung KitUniversal Fuel Tank Return Line Bung Kit


Sorry i should have clarified this- i am using both stock oem lines that go into the top of the S10 tank. One is return one is supply. It is then connected to an fittings braided high pressure fuel line and walboro external pump . Ia single line then runs up to LS fuel rail. did all of this 15 months ago -so forgive me if i listed wrong order. I like the idea of a bottom plumbed tank better- wish i would have installed something like the above before i put the 601 bolts nuts, metal strips and boards on top of the tank :-/


Part #:40004-9
Weight:1.00 lbs
Our price:$25.00
Qty

Add to cart

Add to wish list

Calculate Shipping for Product

CA Prop 65 Warning - cancer and reproductive harm www.p65warnings.ca.gov

The Fuel Tank Return Fitting provides a threaded hole in the fuel tank without having to reach inside the tank. If you are planning on running fuel injection, you will need a return line to the tank. This kit allows you to add the threaded bung with out having to do any welding. If you can drill a 1/2" hole you can do this. It is that simple!

Kit includes:
Bung
9/16"-18 to 6AN Fitting
Gasket
All necessary hardware
Notes:
Will work on material up to 1/4" thick.
No Welding required

This may be helpful for a tank that has had fuel in it, no welding

Posted via Mobile Device

[Darthintel]

My first 1954 I changed the entire drive train and front clip with power steering and disc brakes.
20 years later I wished I kept it all original.

Now I bought another 1954 truck and keeping it mostly original.