Accel super coil 140003 question..

[67sss]

According to the instructions, I'm to the ground clip as it shows. I've done that but, my question is the ground strap on the coil inside itself goes to the other corner by the bottom plug tower on figure B. Does the unit ground itself on all four corners, cause the ground clip and strap are on opposite corners. I'm getting no spark, wondering if the ground is incorrect.

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...110-140003.pdf

[67sss]

ttt

[panhandler62]

I'm not totally sure what you are asking.

If you are getting no spark the first place I would look would be the 12v signal wire. Does it provide a constant 12v?

If that is good I would pull it apart and make sure nothing got left out (particularly the insulating washer or the brush.)

[67sss]

I do have constant 12v power and all the correct parts are in. What I'm trying to figure out is this. On the new coil the factory ground strap goes to the opposite side to where the ground clip(pin-connector) goes. Am wondering is if all four corners of the coil are grounded together some how? Make sense. I'll go take it apart and get a pic. Thanks for the input!

[67sss]

here's a few pics to help with my question, I hope.

pic 1- shows ground strap going toward firewall

pic 2- shows factory ground strap which goes AWAY( toward front of engine) from firewall.

I'm wondering if all 4 corners are grounded, or do I need to some how get the factory ground to go toward the firewall to match the strap? Hope this explains it better.

Thanks.

[84_chevy]

I just installed one of these a couple weeks ago. according to the pictures you have everything installed correctly. Remember that the ground is supplied by the center connector to the coil, check the plug that attaches to the grounding strip and make sure you have a good ground. maybe something came loose while you were making the changes.

[84_chevy]

just had a second look at your pictures. if the picture in the top right corner is the under side of the accel coil it looks to me like the ground wire is on the wrong side. It needs to match up with metal grounding strip. just move it to the other side and everything should work fine.

[VetteVet]

Here is a diagram and it looks like you have it right, but I don't see the small black ground wire off the coil in the diagram. As long as you have it connected to the metal frame of the coil with the strip it should work. Be sure to use the screws that came with the coil if they are shorter and be sure you have the yellow and red wire leads in the right places.

http://www.mrgasket.com/Portals/0/do...003_140005.pdf

[HEI451]

OK, lets stop all the speculation, and fix this issue.

Large cap HEI's use an in cap mounted coil (shown above) that MUST have their yokes (outer framework) grounded TO THE ENGINE. If they are NOT grounded, NO SPARK. That path is from the buss bar, to the three pin plug, at cap position GND, down the wire, to the wire loom mounting screw in the distributor.

The ground path is, coil yoke, buss bar ground tab (shown above), CENTER (GND) wire on the 3 wire connector between the coil plug in at the cap and body, ground wire enters the distributor, and travels to the SCREW that holds down either the wiring loom, or wiring loom and NOISE SUPPRESSOR.

I'd check the grounding by using an ohm meter, between that buss bar in the cap that fits under the coil, as in the picture, to the distributor body. Should have NO RESISTANCE FULL CONTINUITY.

Now, IF you want to do it a lot better, obtain one of the kits that move the coil OFF the cap, and use a round, oil filled coil next to the distributor. That way, the problems of module failure from coil layer shorting, and under cap excessive temperature will be eliminated.

I always get flamed for my posts, but, I wonder why all the self proclaimed ignition specialists here that always shout me down when I post real fixes, didn't outline it already. Oh, well, back to fixing what the specialists tell people to do, that doesn't work. Busy day doing that, I just to this work EVERY day.

Also, ACCEL coil gives NO advantage iof any kind over a stock GM or good aftermarket OEM (Wells, NAPA, CarQuest, O'Reilly's, Auto-Zone, etc.) replacement large coil in cap HEI coil. .

[panhandler62]

Thanks for the input HEI ... we *do* appreciate your knowledge around here.

[84_chevy]

But they look cool & you get those neat yellow stickers :p
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[butch86]

may sound funny but run you a ground wire to the dizzy hold down clamp bolt. i have had issues with bad grounding and this fixed the issue.

[67sss]

Finally a day off, so I'll try working on this today and post progress when/if there's any. Here's the ground strap that I have, are you guys thinking I need to run another ground from frame to dizzy? I appreciate all the info.

[67sss]

put everything back together the way I had it. found tdc, put in a new module and it fired right off.........but....after running for 15-20 minutes, while i was checking for leaks,temp, and idle, it just quit running. now back to square one. i have gas but no spark, gunna change module and see what happens.

HEI451- which cap and coil would you suggest if this problem continues?

"Now, IF you want to do it a lot better, obtain one of the kits that move the coil OFF the cap, and use a round, oil filled coil next to the distributor. That way, the problems of module failure from coil layer shorting, and under cap excessive temperature will be eliminated."

[67sss]

changed out module with no luck.
Rule #1- start from the beginning, and come to find out that my unfused power supply the dizzy had/has a bad connection.It'll have power till the engine vibrates and loosens the connection. Now I'll have to find a new power source or replace the complete inside fuse panel with a extra one I have. Oh the joys of working on "old" trucks.

Where is another good keyed power source for the dizzy?

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by 67sss

changed out module with no luck.
Rule #1- start from the beginning, and come to find out that my unfused power supply the dizzy had/has a bad connection.It'll have power till the engine vibrates and loosens the connection. Now I'll have to find a new power source or replace the complete inside fuse panel with a extra one I have. Oh the joys of working on "old" trucks.

Where is another good keyed power source for the dizzy?

If you can find this cloth covered wire on the firewall block you can replace it with the HEI wire to the BAT terminal. It is the stock resistor wire to the factory ignition coil.



here is a step by step of how to do it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=148346

Start at post 12.

[67sss]

That looks to be pretty easy. Will get it done this morning.

Thanks!

[67sss]

Got it done and that cured the problem. Thanks for all the help!