67 C-30 Dually pickup build.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by MrBeast

I was just wondering, when you shortened your frame, did you chop and reweld it, or did you move and redrill your suspension mounts?"

We cut 6" out behind the cab and rewelded it with a diamond shaped plate for reinforcement and cut about 8 more inches off the the end of the frame to mount the 8' box.

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

We cut 6" out behind the cab and rewelded it with a diamond shaped plate for reinforcement and cut about 8 more inches off the the end of the frame to mount the 8' box.

I am thinking about building a whole new back frame out of 3/16" wall box tube. but if I go for that, the question is, why not build the whole frame and have something that is extremely solid and capable of doing damn near anything...?

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by MrBeast

I am thinking about building a whole new back frame out of 3/16" wall box tube. but if I go for that, the question is, why not build the whole frame and have something that is extremely solid and capable of doing damn near anything...?

I'm sure you could do that being a welder, but I'd think it would be major overkill. My '69 C-30 car hauler frame has been lengthened from the factory 133" WB to 163" with a frame section out of another truck and has been reinforced and boxed on the inside from the back of the to spring perches and I have hauled some major weight over the years with no problems. I have hauled everything from small buses, forklifts, tractors, and often I have hauled with one car or truck on the back and another on my 16ft car trailer. I hauled in a 8000# '69 GMC with the big 351 V6 and heavy dump body a few months ago and she never grunted.

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

I'm sure you could do that being a welder, but I'd think it would be major overkill. My '69 C-30 car hauler frame has been lengthened from the factory 133" WB to 163" with a frame section out of another truck and has been reinforced and boxed on the inside from the back of the to spring perches and I have hauled some major weight over the years with no problems. I have hauled everything from small buses, forklifts, tractors, and often I have hauled with one car or truck on the back and another on my 16ft car trailer. I hauled in a 8000# '69 GMC with the big 351 V6 and heavy dump body a few months ago and she never grunted.

That is a cool ole truck for sure.

The reason I am thinking box frame is I want to put a Cummins 12 valve in mine, so it is going to have to absorb a lot of torque on a regular basis. Especially when I build the new engine up with twin turbos, I am just afraid of damaging the frame.

[67_C-30]

After a brief hiatus of working on the dually, I've been doing some stuff it lately. I pretty have much got the shop truck truck like I want it (sans the logo logo) so I'm jumping back on the dually. I bought a 53K mile 6.2L out a Milltary CUCV from JKade and I'm going to pick it next weekend. I'll keep the engine I was going to use a spare. I have been working on it, and I am just about through fabbing up the custom pressure chamber for the turbo also. I took a few pics of the restored vac/tach cluster I'm going to use in it. It is a 4000 RPM cable driven diesel tach that I'm going to run off of the oil pump stub shaft. It found one and modified it and going to run it in place of vacuum pump that came on the engine. I am also modifying a factory wiper knob to put on on a momentary push button switch to manually control the glow plugs. I'm going to mount the switch behind the cluster in the CHOKE location and it will appear to be a standard choke cable knob. Technically, glow plugs do the same for diesels that the choke does for gas engines - it helps it crank when cold - so I thought it would be cool to mount it there.

[Spray-Bomb]

Shiny

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Spray-Bomb

Shiny

The textured part is getting an insert of some sort. I'm thinking of trying to paint some of the woodgrain inserts with some textured paint and make the cluster and glove box door match.

[MrBeast]

Nice to see you working on it again, I haven't really been working on mine, but been working with it since I got the welder mounted.

I built a 3d star with it today. That was wayyyy cool.

I think your dash is going to be very trick, I am anxious to see it done.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by MrBeast

I think your dash is going to be very trick, I am anxious to see it done.

I'm thinking its going to be something a little different and pretty cool. I am even toying around with trying to have some small vinyl letters made up in reverse and putting them on the backside of one of the non functional red warning lights in the fuel gauge that reads "glow plugs". If I do, I'll wire it bulb behind it to the manual glowplug switch and it will light up GLOW PLUGS when I holding the button, kinda like the factory diesel trucks do when they are cycling.

[MrBeast]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

I'm thinking its going to be something a little different and pretty cool. I am even toying around with trying to have some small vinyl letters made up in reverse and putting them on the backside of one of the non functional red warning lights in the fuel gauge that reads "glow plugs". If I do, I'll wire it bulb behind it to the manual glowplug switch and it will light up GLOW PLUGS when I holding the button, kinda like the factory diesel trucks do when they are cycling.

That would be neat, I did that on my semi with a couple of my switches that control lights. It looked really slick. A friend of mine up in Montana has a vinyl shop, so he helped me out with that. You need to tell who ever does it that they will need to have a brand new cutting tip on their machine, otherwise making the small movements to cut out the tiny letters wont work, the vinyl will push instead of cut.

sounds to me like something you are going to have to make a you tube video to demonstrate!

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

We cut 6" out behind the cab and rewelded it with a diamond shaped plate for reinforcement and cut about 8 more inches off the the end of the frame to mount the 8' box.

Excellent info, can you grab some pictures and measurements for me?

Between the rear cab mount and the first bed mount?

I am waffling over my bed choices...

[caminokid]

Heres another kinda cool idea. Back about 20 years ago there was a International Semi truck we were stripping out. I took the vacuum gauge and the light out of it. The gauge had a sensor on the back of it....when the vacuum drop below a certain point the red light came on. I have no idea where you could get it...but it would be a cool idea...and functional if you could find one. Since the vacuum gauge is mounted so low...the light sure would get you attention.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by grendel

Excellent info, can you grab some pictures and measurements for me?

Between the rear cab mount and the first bed mount?

I am waffling over my bed choices...

I'll get those pics and measurements for ya as soon as I can.

[FormerMember]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

I'll get those pics and measurements for ya as soon as I can.

Please and thank you.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by grendel

Please and thank you.

Ok, here are some pics of the frame and dimensions. We cut out 6" and buut welded it, then came back and plated it with 3/16" diamonds on each side. I know the step notch is the best way to go with frames, but my '69 C-30 ramp truck is done this way, and I've hauled more weight than I ever could on a pickup, so I'm not scared of it.

The distance from the back of the cab to the slot in the first mount is 4.5" and the second is 16.5". I ground off the rivets and removed the mounts from a regular pickup. The slot is slighty enlongated from the factory and the measurements are to the center of the slot. I got the measurements when I added the mounts from my truck from the pickup that the mounts came off of. I bolted them on instead of welding them. On the rear, I drilled holes on the frame (no mounts are neede on the rear, the bed sits flush on the rails) using the bed floor as my template. If you need anything else, just let me know.

[67_C-30]

A little update:
Here's the custom pressure I made to turbocharge the Diesel. It is a '71 Porsche air cleaner housing cut down with the standard 6.2L Diesel round base grafted on the bottom. I have to finish grinding the welds, and and get it ready for paint, but the hard part is done. It has the same size outlet as the 6.5TD intake, and will look pretty old school on the engine.

[67_C-30]

Finished grinding and smoothing and finished up the pressure chamber today and got it primed. I think it will look real with all the plumbing going to it and everything painted Detroit Green.

[Spray-Bomb]

Gonna look sweet bro

If you dont have the paint already, I got mine at the local parts store & it was called Alpine green

[68,69 K20]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

Finished grinding and smoothing and finished up the pressure chamber today and got it primed. I think it will look real with all the plumbing going to it and everything painted Detroit Green.

That Detroit green is an awesome color Good choice.

I'm glad to see you using the 6.2. My work truck is a early 80's CUCUV Blazer with the 6.2 and it runs like a dream. Great torque, never runs hot, and will start on the coldest of days. Cant wait to hear it run!!

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by 68,69 K20

That Detroit green is an awesome color Good choice.

I'm glad to see you using the 6.2. My work truck is a early 80's CUCUV Blazer with the 6.2 and it runs like a dream. Great torque, never runs hot, and will start on the coldest of days. Cant wait to hear it run!!

That's exactly what I'm using. I bought a 58K mile CUCV 6.2 from JKade that runs perfectly and I'm going to turbocharge it with a 1993 6.5L Turbo setup. I've had several of these engines, and I've had good luck with them.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Spray-Bomb

Gonna look sweet bro

If you dont have the paint already, I got mine at the local parts store & it was called Alpine green

Yes, I already have it. Thanks though!

[MrBeast]

I am getting pretty anxious to see the motor in the truck, its going to be sweet.

[68,69 K20]

Originally Posted by 67_C-30

That's exactly what I'm using. I bought a 58K mile CUCV 6.2 from JKade that runs perfectly and I'm going to turbocharge it with a 1993 6.5L Turbo setup. I've had several of these engines, and I've had good luck with them.

Real interested to see what that turbocharging will add to its performance

Are you keeping it 24V or going to 12V?

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by 68,69 K20

Real interested to see what that turbocharging will add to its performance

Are you keeping it 24V or going to 12V?

I'm going with 12V. I bought a set of fast heat glow plugs from SS Deisel Supply and I have a new gear reduction starter for it. As far as performance goes, its pretty easy to get 220-230HP and 450 ft lbs TQ out of them. I have a Turbomaster boost spring controller, and I going to set the boost at 10 psi. Some people go 12 with psi with stock compression, and as long as EGT's are kept under 1100 degrees they will live. However, I 'm going to stay a little on this side of "safe". I also have set of marine injectors from another project that I'm going to use also. This engine in front of the NP435 tranny will do anything I need it to, and they generally get real decent fuel mileage for what they are.

[Spray-Bomb]

Hurry up, I wanna see some green