1972 Blazer CST Frame off Project in NC

[UGAK5]

Long time lurker - first time poster!

So, I decided in April to buy a 1972 Blazer CST that was someone else's project. They were 6 years into the project, its in pieces, and they had bought tons of parts (mostly trim, interior, bumpers, etc.) but had run out of passion, money and interest. I joking tell people I bought a brand new 1972 blazer - some assembly required.....

I am not building a lifted offroader or a show vehicle. I am building a mild lift (3 or 4 inches) pavement pounder, mostly stock as a fun spring/summer vehicle. I will reuse the TH350 and NP205 (after a rebuild) and haven't decided about the stock 350 engine (stock except double hump heads).

I know the price of admission - - PICS - - so they are included.

After getting the motor, tranny, transfer case, drivelines, fuel cell and a EVERYTHING off the firewall, i separated the body and frame alone in my driveway.....quite the sphincter clencher.... PICS of that included too (not the sphincter)!

So, this week the body goes to blasting, then to my body guy for the cold hard truth - I already see some garbage repairs around the rockers and rot around the rear wheel wells. Sheet metal purchases are in my future.

Also, since I am a belt and suspenders kind of guy, I am taking the frame to a different body shop and having it checked out. I figure why not. Its easy to take over there and just a few hundred dollars for the confidence in knowing its true before I start to rebuild everything upon it.

So - here is what I need from you guys (just the first of many things I am sure):

1) What suggestions/advice/things should I look at and/or modify on the frame before I have it blasted and painted? I know a steering box brace is a good idea (moreso on Gen 2s), but what else - knowing it'll be a small block going back in.

2) Since I need doors (I have the originals, but they are rusted on the bottom, been poorly fiberglassed and have speaker cutouts in them - would cost more to fix than replace) and other body pieces and parts, who is the best OEM quality supplier of those? I would rather pay more for the higher quality part than pay more for labor with fitment issues.

I really appreciate any wisdom you can offer - Thanks in advance!

[4oldcars]

No visible bracing in the door openings. There may be a day you'll regret that.

[jaros44sr]

nice start and welcome to the boards....

every bracket I took off my frame had rust behind it
bought my doors from tri-pro, make sure you check shipping charges, carrier tried to charge me 600.00

make sure your doors fit BEFORE any cutting, as said above. do you have a hardtop for it

[UGAK5]

Thank you both for the responses 4oldcars and jaros44sr

I did test out bracing the door opening and it was super rigid (PO replaced the torsion boxes under the rockers with all new metal), nothing really made it shift. So, I lifted it carefully without them. The dolly I put the body on it shimmed to mate up and support the body well - - much better than the POS body mounts I found rotted away under it!

Maybe I will regret it - time will tell. I already have a few regrets on this project, so a few more won't kill me. Chances are I will be taking these back off and putting them on properly -- crap welds.

jaros44sr - I googled tri-pro, looks like they are out of business - any other recommendations? I do have the hard top, but again, the PO bondo'ed the top of the rear panels, so there were no holes left to attach it to.......funny how all POs are hacks and all current owners are geniuses!

Also, I found the frame dimensions for a 1971 4x4 - does anyone know where I can get them for the 1972? I went page by page through my 'Assembly Guide' but couldn't locate anything. Would like to have some to take to the body shop with me this week.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Thank you both for the responses 4oldcars and jaros44sr

I did test out bracing the door opening and it was super rigid (PO replaced the torsion boxes under the rockers with all new metal), nothing really made it shift. So, I lifted it carefully without them. The dolly I put the body on it shimmed to mate up and support the body well - - much better than the POS body mounts I found rotted away under it!

Maybe I will regret it - time will tell. I already have a few regrets on this project, so a few more won't kill me. Chances are I will be taking these back off and putting them on properly -- crap welds.

jaros44sr - I googled tri-pro, looks like they are out of business - any other recommendations? I do have the hard top, but again, the PO bondo'ed the top of the rear panels, so there were no holes left to attach it to.......funny how all POs are hacks and all current owners are geniuses!

Also, I found the frame dimensions for a 1971 4x4 - does anyone know where I can get them for the 1972? I went page by page through my 'Assembly Guide' but couldn't locate anything. Would like to have some to take to the body shop with me this week.

try looking up top banana, I think that is what they changed their name to

[Ta12sec]

That truck looks framiliar, I looked at one in the Carolinas that all the body work was "done"

[tjsblazer]

Welcome aboard another one to watch.
I got beat to the bracing.

Looking forward to your build. Keep the pictures coming.

[UGAK5]

I bought this one out of TN. And yes - - PO said 'very little rust and we've done all the body work except the front clip' - - yeah, right.....

I knew what I was buying, but still find things that are hard to believe. LOTS of rework in my future.

Any info on frame specs would be really appreciated. I can find every frame EXCEPT the one I want....a 72 4x4.

Also, anyone know a source for the front left bump stop bracket? Apparently my blazer on has a right one!

[tjsblazer]

for the axle when bottomed out
or for the front spring for crash test improvment?

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

for the axle when bottomed out
or for the front spring for crash test improvment?

Hey Jeff - I think its for the front axle bottoming out - here's a pic of the right side (with) and the left side (without).

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Hey Jeff - I think its for the front axle bottoming out - here's a pic of the right side (with) and the left side (without).

Yes, you're right. You shouldn't have any problem finding one on this board. Dwayne in PA, which isn't too terribly far away from you for shipping might have one. He has tore down a few Blazers over the past few months although this would be a common bracket on K10 also. I have linked his members page below.

Based on this project I would highly recommend you spend the $25 and become a forum member. You need this to be able to post "wanted to buy adds" or to sell on the forum. You can buy from existing posts without being a member but for $25 what you will get out of this forum will be money well spent.

Cheers,

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/member.php?u=99600

[UGAK5]

Thanks Jeff - Good advice and I will join.


Like other posters, I have answered a portion of my own question. I contacted the GM Heritage center this morning and got a copy of the 1972 4x4 frame AND specs! Hopefully others will enjoy this too.

Chris

[jaros44sr]

hey congrats, you turned blue, best money you've ever spent. getting to your pm, answer is rather long winded

maybe, you should move this over to the projects and builds, starting to look like something to follow

I have an extra rubber snubber, if you find the bracket, sorry all I have are rear brackets

[Chad22873]

I have been very happy with the quality and figment of all of the sheet metal and replacement parts that I have bought from GMCPAULS. I would not hesitate to recommend them at all.

[mcmlxix]

My best suggestion is to make sure the frame is straight and true, then reinstall the body with new body mounts. Align all original body panels with doors and TOP on. This will make sure all will realign when repairing and replacing sheet metal. Also, truck doors and be cut down to Blazer doors. 1972 doors are different than 1971 and older. Easy to ID by the screw/dimple by the vent window.
Welcome to the addiction!

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by mcmlxix

My best suggestion is to make sure the frame is straight and true

Thanks Rich - Thats what I was thinking as well. The body shop did ask me for any help I could offer in locating frame specs - hopefully I will find some. Also, here are 3 pics of some bends on the frame I have found thus far. 1st is right front horn....2 and 3 are the drivers side at the tranny mount.

Anything else specific to look for?

[raggedjim]

Good clean place to start. The first blazer I bought (eBay) I almost cried when I finally realized how bad it was, MUCH worse than yours.

Good luck, Rg

[UGAK5]

Thanks Roger - I appreciate the reassurances. My body guy said he'd seen way worse too - just surprised me that there is not ONE PIECE of OEM steel that doesn't have rot somewhere.....

[1972CST]

Nice project, good to see another local K5 guy!

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 1972CST

Nice project, good to see another local K5 guy!

Hopefully you will see me on the roads around Charlotte before the year 2020!

[Tynee]

Interesting build.

[tjsblazer]

I got my springs through ORD also with a similar lift amount. I will say when it came time to install the Rears there was a bit of pre-load required similar to a coil pack. Took a couple of red-neck tricks to get them in. In the end they nailed the stance but I don't have mine back together yet to see what the ride is like.

[DeadheadNM]

Great progress, thanks for posting. Where did you get the NP205 rebuild kit? I have one to rebuild and want all USA made replacement parts.

[UGAK5]

Thanks - - I got my kit from Off Road Design - - they build a ton of 205s and I felt they would use good quality parts in their kits. Torque King 4x4 is a great resource too - - their kits are very $$$ though. I did buy a few seals from them and a new speedo nut.....PO used a chisel to get it off at one point and butchered it badly. Like I said, I did get some Japanese bearings, but they are great quality.

[UGAK5]

Does anyone have good measurements for the distance between the B pillars? Just trying to make sure we have everything lined up properly.