Will these motor mounts work?

[joey8383]

I can't say I know much about motor mounts. I see most guys use the clam shell type or aftermarket stuff but would this work? It's just some stock mounts off a 72 C10.

[BR3W CITY]

Plenty of folks use the SBC mounts with the adapters on those perches. I used the similar setup for my '66. It was the only thing available before all the tubular/crossmember/full replacement type perches existed.

[ls1nova71]

Unless you plan on modifying the stands, be prepared to buy headers as they are the only thing that will clear them. No exhaust manifolds will work.

[joey8383]

Do you guys know of any build threads that show the stands? I can't find any mention of them anywhere.

[truckdude239]

I used them the stock ones in my 71 with drity dingo wlider mounts and had to use trailblazzer ss manifolds to clear the mounts

[uxdesigner]

Yes they will work, I'm using the exact same setup with Trailblazer SS manifolds. Check out my build, there are pictures of the setup.

[68c10airstream]

I'll throw my 2 cents worth in, i can't tell by the pics if those mounts will allow the motor to move around if the rubber splits apart. I believe the clam shell style doesn't allow the motor to move very far if the rubber splits. I used the 2001 organ donor mounts and made my own adapter plates. My style serves a couple of key items in my mind; new style mounts are designed to address nvh (noise vibration harshness) and more importantly are safe and if the rubber splits movement is kept to a minimum. My style sit fairly low, a/c compressor fits perfectly down low, no header clearance troubles, looks tidy. If i was to do it over again i would source mounts and brackets from a 98-02 f body 5.7 ls application. Nice cast iron brackets attach to the side of the block and the mount i would call a biscuit style. You would only need to make a small bracket from the under side of the biscuit to the crossmember. Stock manifolds from a trailblazer 5.3/6.0 and possibly other gm applications would work and any header would clear the mounts. Also replacement mounts sometimes come from india and are rock hard and can slit open. I'm old enough to remember gm recalling defective mounts that when split apart resulted in full throttle in reverse. Gm fix was cables from exhaust manifolds to the frame. If you can fabricate and weld i believe you will be happier with the f body set-up, if not dirty dingo will work fine. My viewpoints will probably come under fire by a frequent visitor here but a common sense approach sure worked great on my 5.3 in my 68c10. Good luck, Brian Fuller

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by 68c10airstream

I'll throw my 2 cents worth in, i can't tell by the pics if those mounts will allow the motor to move around if the rubber splits apart. I believe the clam shell style doesn't allow the motor to move very far if the rubber splits. I used the 2001 organ donor mounts and made my own adapter plates. My style serves a couple of key items in my mind; new style mounts are designed to address nvh (noise vibration harshness) and more importantly are safe and if the rubber splits movement is kept to a minimum. My style sit fairly low, a/c compressor fits perfectly down low, no header clearance troubles, looks tidy. If i was to do it over again i would source mounts and brackets from a 98-02 f body 5.7 ls application. Nice cast iron brackets attach to the side of the block and the mount i would call a biscuit style. You would only need to make a small bracket from the under side of the biscuit to the crossmember. Stock manifolds from a trailblazer 5.3/6.0 and possibly other gm applications would work and any header would clear the mounts. Also replacement mounts sometimes come from india and are rock hard and can slit open. I'm old enough to remember gm recalling defective mounts that when split apart resulted in full throttle in reverse. Gm fix was cables from exhaust manifolds to the frame. If you can fabricate and weld i believe you will be happier with the f body set-up, if not dirty dingo will work fine. My viewpoints will probably come under fire by a frequent visitor here but a common sense approach sure worked great on my 5.3 in my 68c10. Good luck, Brian Fuller

You said it "square"...your view points will not come under fire hereI may have different ideas, & will share? If you run the stock stands/ls plates, toss the rubber mounts, & opt for a set of urethane mounts? They are stiffer/harsher than the rubber pcs,but they will take the beat down! You will have header issues, with the stock stands/mounts...(No argue), espiceilly, on a stick shift truck/mech linkage? I run Hooker street rod shorties, on my swap& it all fits? Longhorn

[joey8383]

Thank you guys. I thought I was ready to start sliding this in the frame but I'm going to do some more reading before I start welding on my cross member/engine cradle. I have a very nice Miller Mig and have no problems fabricating most things. I will report back.

[BR3W CITY]

Joey, the setup in your picture shouldn't require any welding, unless you choose to weld them in.

[joey8383]

I didn't mean to sound like I was going to weld that set up. Crazy Longhorn is saying there is no OEM exhaust manifold that will clear those stands and I'd have to go custom headers. So I'm considering welding and creating my own stands. I may just buy the CPP kit and be done... Or I may get creative and build something that uses the LS OEM motor mounts.
When you guys build your own, do you bolt the adapter and motor mount on to the engine, set the engine in place where you want it, and build up to it?

[BR3W CITY]

I'm not sure about that; I have a 72 front crossmember in my truck, and the frames would be otherwise the same afaik. I have the o.e stands, swap plates, and regular sbc mounts (basically what you pictured), and I clear that setup with stock TBSS manifolds.

I did trim a little around the flange for easier access to the bolts, but otherwise they fit. Maybe he meant that non of the truck manifolds would fit, as some folks use GTO, Fbody, and TBSS manifolds with the adapters.

Maybe I missed something, but afaik your swap would go pretty much the same as my '66 was, sans a few wiring differences.

[ls1nova71]

When I tried this I had to cut the top part of the stand off and recess it for clearance for the manifolds, thats what I was getting at. I suppose you could run them with little to no clearance, but I didn't feel comfortable doing that. The manifolds were just damn near touching the stands, you probably could have gotten them on, but couldn't get a nickle between them. But to each their own.

[Clyde65]

When I did my swap, the CPP perches were the only ones available. I got the stock perches to work, but man that was a real PITA!

I finally went with the POL perches, this sits the motor up a little bit more, making headers fit easier and maintenance much easier. Oh, BTW be sure to swap your oil pan out prior to setting the motor in, I learned the hard way.

Good Luck!

[joey8383]

Clyde65-- I just bumped an old thread on POL stands. Do you know if stock or TBSS exhaust manifolds will clear these stands? What headers are you using? Did the stock truck pan hit the POL stands? Did you go with an F-Body pan? What transmission are you running? Did you have to go with a high hump tunnel?
Thanks for all the input everybody. I may have another 30 questions after these are answered

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

When I tried this I had to cut the top part of the stand off and recess it for clearance for the manifolds, thats what I was getting at. I suppose you could run them with little to no clearance, but I didn't feel comfortable doing that. The manifolds were just damn near touching the stands, you probably could have gotten them on, but couldn't get a nickle between them. But to each their own.

Oh its CLOSE, but it fits. I agree that a couple of nickels would take up all the space, but after 12k-ish on the road, I have yet to actually make contact with the stands (even with worn our 50k old sbc mounts)

[dec010974]

I used those mounts for my 1971 c10 LSx swap. It wasn't the easiest thing to do but what is, and I managed to do it by myself. Everything fell into place. The sun shined on a dog's butt that day. I also used the trail blazer ss manifold. Good luck.

[joey8383]

Where can a guy find some TBSS manifolds since GM Performance is back ordered and no estimated date of arrival? Any ideas?

[dec010974]

I found my tbss manifolds on ebay. I think I paid $150.00 shipped. I did have to clear or grind the frame rail slightly on the passenger side.

[Xeen]

Hooker makes TBSS clone exhaust manifolds that are reasonably priced, you can find them on Ebay.

[Clyde65]

Originally Posted by joey8383

Clyde65-- I just bumped an old thread on POL stands. Do you know if stock or TBSS exhaust manifolds will clear these stands? What headers are you using? Did the stock truck pan hit the POL stands? Did you go with an F-Body pan? What transmission are you running? Did you have to go with a high hump tunnel?
Thanks for all the input everybody. I may have another 30 questions after these are answered

The TBSS may work, I didnt try them. The stock truck and fbody manifolds would hit the frame and I wasnt going to cut it any more( had to on the top of frame rail for perches to fit).
I used Sanderson Shorties CSLS1, I like them and those were the only thing available then ( 2009). I had the truck pan and no it didnt hit or interfere anywhere, just hung down too low for me, so I pulled the motor two years ago and went with the Hot Rod pan that Summit sells. Oh and I also used the Fbody dipstick because it comes out more to the center of the engine so I could retain my factory heater on the FW.
I have a low hump tunnel, I used a stock 4L60E, no issues with fitment.

Hope this helps!

Ask away Guy, I am glad to share my experiences.

[Matt Cramer]

Another option is 2010 and later Camaro manifolds. They point straight down and use conventional 2 bolt flanges, but have been a bit more expensive than the TBSS parts.