What do ya'll think about these battery clamps?

[In The Ten Ring]

Just got in from making the cables! My dad gave me a bit of help when it came to operating the big crimper: it's a bit awkward to use so an extra pair of hands comes in handy. I used glue-lined heat shrink and a heat gun. I'll get pics up tomorrow night.

Thanks for all the encouragement and advice, very easy to do and a lot of fun.

[gearheadperkins]

I also use those without any issues.. As long as you are not going for a full classic factory style resto.. I say use them ..

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks man. Well the new battery cables are made and I hope to get those on tomorrow and put these clamps (and my 44 year old wiring) to the test.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I have placed an order with O'Reilly's for those top-wingnut clamps. I have priced 4 gauge cable at Advance Auto for $1.79 for black and $2.99 for red at NAPA (also 4 gauge).

I think I'll remove my passenger side wheel (inner fenders are not on) and remove my cables and measure those, even take those with me to the stores.

I am looking forward to crimping my own eyelets on.

Don't forget the rosin core solder and shrink tubing. Once you crimp the ring terminal on, place the terminal in a vice open end up and heat the wall of the terminal with a small torch filling it with solder. Don't forget to slide the shrink tubing on first! If your going to do it, do it right...

[Orange67]

Hey! I'm 44.... Wait. Maybe my wiring is what's wrong!

Good to hear you got them built, thinking of a similar set up on my 67.

[franken]

Maybe already covered, but the big cables are for the starter. We can and should use the small leads to go to a junction block in one way or another. Hanging a lot of stuff off a battery terminal isn't pretty.
Have a look at >72 solutions to some other issues as well, that move the low current junction block closer to the driver.

[In The Ten Ring]

Did not use solder...figured that was "too much."

I'll try and get pics up tomorrow.