Help me achieve my dream stance - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Krustyone · 12-31-2017, 08:16 PM

I am starting from a stripped 56 frame. Doing mustang 2 front and 4 link rear.
What do I need to do to get there?
Do I need a simple c notch in the rear frame or a tall tower notch ?
MII front with 2” drop spindles ?
Air bags are an option but I don’t need the truck on the ground.

This pic will be the goal... This would be a great ride height but is this a practical idea ? Don’t want to scrape the rockers going to the gas station.
Any thoughts or advice? Thanks!

dsraven · 12-31-2017, 08:27 PM

is that an actual driving truck of a photoshopped unit? wondering about tire clearance on turns. would be a tire size, wheel and offset choice issue.

Krustyone · 12-31-2017, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsraven

is that an actual driving truck of a photoshopped unit? wondering about tire clearance on turns. would be a tire size, wheel and offset choice issue.

Good question, I have no idea. I just used it for reference for stance/height.
I like the tire height as well but i’ll Be running steel with whitewalls I think.

dsraven · 01-01-2018, 01:20 AM

I originally installed a TCI MII kit in my 57, it has 2" drop spindles and a 4 link rear with air bags all around. I cut a notch in the stock frame above the diff because I didn't want to alter the stock box floor. you will need at least 3" above the rear axle and a good quality snubber block as well. boxing that area of the frame will add strength. if I was going to do it again I would simply build the C notch and modify the bed in order to get the clearances required so I wouldn't have to worry about bottoming the axle over speed bumps etc. I haven't actually used that frame (frame swap instead, after thought) but that is the issue I ran into out back at the time. the other thing to do some home work on would be the location of the front axle center line. the lower the truck sits the more forward the center line may need to be (up to a point) because the rear of the front fender opening is angled it makes the tire look like it is actually stuffed into the rear of the opening as the truck is lowered over the wheel. I think with a 2" drop spindle you may want the axle ahead of the stock position some. like I said, it depends on the amount of drop but also the size of the front tire as well.
figure out what you want it to look like and what you plan to do with the rear suspension as well. some guys weld in a clip out front, then weld in a c notch out back. in the end they only use a couple of feet of the original frame. basically the part with the cab mounts on it. if that is the plan you may just want to fab up a whole new frame. check online for a frame dimension image and you will see the frame is basically flat except for the bump over the rear axle and a taper and drop out front.
figure out the rake angle you like and the amount of drop you like then re-ask the questions about the issues they have encountered with the same type of set up. lots of time, effort and money gets spent on projects that have no plan to begin with.
dunno how I would know that.......

when you get ready to start make sure you check the frame for straight, sag and square before you start anything. there is a diagram of the GM procedure in the repair manual. you can find that in the online old car manual project probably or email the GM heritage center for the procedure.

12-31-2017, 08:16 PM	#1
Krustyone Registered User Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Mesa az Posts: 41	Help me achieve my dream stance I am starting from a stripped 56 frame. Doing mustang 2 front and 4 link rear. What do I need to do to get there? Do I need a simple c notch in the rear frame or a tall tower notch ? MII front with 2” drop spindles ? Air bags are an option but I don’t need the truck on the ground. This pic will be the goal... This would be a great ride height but is this a practical idea ? Don’t want to scrape the rockers going to the gas station. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks! Attached Images

12-31-2017, 08:27 PM	#2
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,823	Re: Help me achieve my dream stance is that an actual driving truck of a photoshopped unit? wondering about tire clearance on turns. would be a tire size, wheel and offset choice issue.

01-01-2018, 01:20 AM	#4
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,823	Re: Help me achieve my dream stance I originally installed a TCI MII kit in my 57, it has 2" drop spindles and a 4 link rear with air bags all around. I cut a notch in the stock frame above the diff because I didn't want to alter the stock box floor. you will need at least 3" above the rear axle and a good quality snubber block as well. boxing that area of the frame will add strength. if I was going to do it again I would simply build the C notch and modify the bed in order to get the clearances required so I wouldn't have to worry about bottoming the axle over speed bumps etc. I haven't actually used that frame (frame swap instead, after thought) but that is the issue I ran into out back at the time. the other thing to do some home work on would be the location of the front axle center line. the lower the truck sits the more forward the center line may need to be (up to a point) because the rear of the front fender opening is angled it makes the tire look like it is actually stuffed into the rear of the opening as the truck is lowered over the wheel. I think with a 2" drop spindle you may want the axle ahead of the stock position some. like I said, it depends on the amount of drop but also the size of the front tire as well. figure out what you want it to look like and what you plan to do with the rear suspension as well. some guys weld in a clip out front, then weld in a c notch out back. in the end they only use a couple of feet of the original frame. basically the part with the cab mounts on it. if that is the plan you may just want to fab up a whole new frame. check online for a frame dimension image and you will see the frame is basically flat except for the bump over the rear axle and a taper and drop out front. figure out the rake angle you like and the amount of drop you like then re-ask the questions about the issues they have encountered with the same type of set up. lots of time, effort and money gets spent on projects that have no plan to begin with. dunno how I would know that....... when you get ready to start make sure you check the frame for straight, sag and square before you start anything. there is a diagram of the GM procedure in the repair manual. you can find that in the online old car manual project probably or email the GM heritage center for the procedure.



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