Ignition switch removal

[dave`12]

I bought a new bezel for my 67 ignition switch (in the dash). I got the old one to turn, but it won't come out. The ignition switch gets loose, and I can turn it all day, but it's still connected somehow. Rather than get crazy and scratch up my dash, I thought that maybe there is a trick to get it off?

thanx

[A1971Blazer]

put the key in turn it to acc (left) take a small wire and insert into the tiny hole beside the key and push in.....that will release the lock....turn a bit more to the left and the lock cylinder will come out.....then the bezel will come off.....

[dave`12]

Wow - knowledge beats sweat every time.

Will do - and thanx.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by dave`12

Wow - knowledge beats sweat every time.

Will do - and thanx.

you're welcome...been down the same road...this site is better than 4 years of college....! hahaha...

[dave`12]

Finally got around to doing this. Worked like a charm.

thx again

['70_402]

now if I can figure out to get one out that I don't have the keys to.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by '70_402

now if I can figure out to get one out that I don't have the keys to.

Try taking the passenger side door lock out and see if there is a code number on it. The number should look something like this.....

If it has the code number on it take the lock to your local locksmith and have him cut a key to that code number and if none of the locks have been changed it should fit the ignition. If that doesn't work you will have to drill it.

[franken]

Originally Posted by '70_402

now if I can figure out to get one out that I don't have the keys to.

Not subtle but works: .25" drill 1" into the cylinder and a screwdriver is the key. New cylinders are at the parts store for a couple bucks.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by firedemon

my 67 does not have an accessory position just on and start what gives there

All of the '67's and some of the early '68's came from the factory with the ignition switch with no accessory position.

LockDoc

['70_402]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Try taking the passenger side door lock out and see if there is a code number on it. The number should look something like this.....

If it has the code number on it take the lock to your local locksmith and have him cut a key to that code number and if none of the locks have been changed it should fit the ignition. If that doesn't work you will have to drill it.

awesome i'll give that a try... if not, drill here I come. ugh.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

All of the '67's and some of the early '68's came from the factory with the ignition switch with no accessory position.

LockDoc

I'm working right now on my '68. The key barely works going clockwise, need to jiggle it every time I start it. It's not going counterclockwise past vertical position. Now what do I do?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

I'm working right now on my '68. The key barely works going clockwise, need to jiggle it every time I start it. It's not going counterclockwise past vertical position. Now what do I do?

I presume you have tried jiggling the key while you are turning it counter clockwise.

Try inserting a large straightened out paper clip into the hole in the face of the ignition cylinder and gently push in on it while you try jiggling the key and turning it to the left.

If that doesn't work look at the door lock as I posted in post #7 to see if there is a code # on it. If there is get a new key cut to that code and if the ignition cylinder hasn't been changed it should work much better.

LockDoc

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I presume you have tried jiggling the key while you are turning it counter clockwise.

Try inserting a large straightened out paper clip into the hole in the face of the ignition cylinder and gently push in on it while you try jiggling the key and turning it to the left.

If that doesn't work look at the door lock as I posted in post #7 to see if there is a code # on it. If there is get a new key cut to that code and if the ignition cylinder hasn't been changed it should work much better.

LockDoc

I tried that! I should have taken a closeup picture, maybe you can see the face is not a clean slot but a square hole, I suspect someone screwed with it. I put a slot screwdriver next to the key, and jiggled and wiggled and cursed to get it to go counterclockwise. I also started with a big paper clip, then used a punch because it doesn't bend. I had done this successfully on my previous truck, so know how it works. I'm afraid of breaking the key.

I suspect the door locks are different, this key does not work.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

I tried that! I should have taken a closeup picture, maybe you can see the face is not a clean slot but a square hole, I suspect someone screwed with it. I put a slot screwdriver next to the key, and jiggled and wiggled and cursed to get it to go counterclockwise. I also started with a big paper clip, then used a punch because it doesn't bend. I had done this successfully on my previous truck, so know how it works. I'm afraid of breaking the key.

I suspect the door locks are different, this key does not work.

Drilling it is about your only option then. Start with an 1/8th inch bit and work your way up. Put a piece of tape on the bits about 3/4" up and don't go any deeper than that. Go slow so the bit doesn't catch and break off in the hole. Keep the loose pieces dug out and after you get to about 1/4 or 3/8" put a screw driver in the lock and turn it back and forth to try and get it loosened up. If you get it to turn to the left go ahead an insert the paper clip in the hole and see if it will turn to the left enough to pull it out. Use a small hook tool or dental pick to pull on it after you get it turned.

Let me know how it goes.

LockDoc

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

[...] Let me know how it goes.

LockDoc

Thank you very much for the tip!

I started with the 1/8", worked up to about 5/16". Because it was not centered, did not go bigger. In fact, I used about 1/16" to drill around the perimeter and then what was left in the center. I was looking at the replacement which has a stainless steel stamped sheet face, but the old was one chunk of aluminum. The key (pun intended) was getting the flat tab out, then grabbed with the needle nosed pliers and cursed enough.


The cordless drill has the ratchet chuck, so less chance of breaking a bit, but I started slow too.


Only after the tab came out, did it rotate counter clockwise, but barely. I used a punch instead of a paper clip.


I put a bunch of dry graphite in the new cylinder before installing. I buggered up the main part, but don't see it, and it still works. Guess this will disqualify it for Pebble Beach.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

Thank you very much for the tip!

I started with the 1/8", worked up to about 5/16". Because it was not centered, did not go bigger. In fact, I used about 1/16" to drill around the perimeter and then what was left in the center. I was looking at the replacement which has a stainless steel stamped sheet face, but the old was one chunk of aluminum. The key (pun intended) was getting the flat tab out, then grabbed with the needle nosed pliers and cursed enough.


The cordless drill has the ratchet chuck, so less chance of breaking a bit, but I started slow too.


Only after the tab came out, did it rotate counter clockwise, but barely. I used a punch instead of a paper clip.


I put a bunch of dry graphite in the new cylinder before installing. I buggered up the main part, but don't see it, and it still works. Guess this will disqualify it for Pebble Beach.

Looks like you showed it no mercy...... At least you got it out without destroying the switch or bezel. That tab is actually the sidebar and that is what locks the cylinder when the key is removed. When you get up to the 3/8 bit the sidebar will usually fall out.

LockDoc

[Furno68C20]

NEW ISSUE ...….I was able to get the old switch out and the new one installed but now when cranking the switch doesn't spring back to run. Any ideas what to check or needs replaced?

[Metaldoc]

I just bought the switch with a new key for less than 20 bucks.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Furno68C20

NEW ISSUE ...….I was able to get the old switch out and the new one installed but now when cranking the switch doesn't spring back to run. Any ideas what to check or needs replaced?

Did you drill into the side of the switch housing or the plastic switch plate that the bottom of the ignition cylinder fits into? And/or take the cylinder back out and check the inside and bottom of the hole good. There may be some metal shavings or chunks in there. Also spray a little penetrating oil with teflon in it down into the switch and try it again.

LockDoc

[Furno68C20]

I didn't drill anything, was able to get the old one out. the old one did retract back so its probably sticking due to the new one just not worked enough. Ill spray some good stuff in there and see it that helps. Thank you.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Furno68C20

I didn't drill anything, was able to get the old one out. the old one did retract back so its probably sticking due to the new one just not worked enough. Ill spray some good stuff in there and see it that helps. Thank you.

Let us know how it goes.

LockDoc