uni vs. standard points?

[silvertip67]

I found a box of parts when I bought my recent truck a few years back...have been using them ...but found some new points that I have never used before..."Blue Streak" uni points...there ws about 6 sets in the box, half uni's and half standard.the Uni's look very quality made w/ a copper color anodizing on them. plus they are pretty precise compared to some points I have seen.

I tried them and have a bit of problem setting the .019 gap...but imagine its just a matter of practice working around the condenser thats in place...do I need to disconnect the older condenser that is still strapped onto the coil if I use these...?

also what is the opinion of those here about using them...and any little details for advice.

['68OrangeSunshine]

L6 or V8? With a V8 you have to use an allen key thru a trapdoor in the side of the Distributor. On the L6 you have to use 2 flathead screwdrivers, and open the gap with one while you tighten the set screw with the other. Get it in the neighborhood with a matchbook cover, then tweak to fit a gap gauge. [.019 New and .016 used]
If you're tuning an L6 with a dwell-meter, you have to open up the Distributor Cap and lift off the Rotor then reset gap for best dwell angle. With the V8 you can fine-tune it while running with the allen key.
Standard and their premium line Blue Streak were very good F.L.A.P. parts in their day.

[silvertip67]

Thanks...I opted for the standard style this time, since I have several of them left ...it is a 327/CST btw...so its pretty easy on standards to get a feeler gauge in there and set the dwell with a 1/8" allen...the way the "unis" have the condenser right over the gap area it is a bit harder for me to deal with it....when I run out of the standards I will have to go for it...

funny thing this morning I broke the condenser wire off when I was finishing up...maybe this "uni" guy knew something...and got fed up with the one real pain for me too...setting points in the rear of the 67's engine compartment...

when they designed the 4WD's the engine sits back about 4" farther than the newer ones for clearance I guess for the transfer case etc...so not having to deal with the condenser exterior to the coil does make a lot of sense...one less wire hanging out back there...

also can you tell me about when those style "blue streaks" were made originally...the boxes I have are in perfect shape ...the cost written on them in ball point pen was $5.49...nothing costs that anymore...

['68OrangeSunshine]

I've never used the Uni style. Now I know what you're talking about.
Actually, I went to HEI on my 350. On the 292 L6, I used points for a long time, finally switching to Pertronix Ignitor II.
Let's guess a set of Blue Streak points went for $5.49 about mid '80s.

[cableguy0]

The real question is why are you still fighting with points. Its entirely too cheap to upgrade to an hei ignition and have something consistent and reliable.

[silvertip67]

I saw them today in an LMC catalog...you are right its not that much$$

before I would get a new distributor or repair one that is probably what I will do...the allure of dealing with points is getting old...

how long does a rig like that(REI) last?10,20, 30K??

thanks...t

[Gumby]

last points car I had, made a cutoms Y coil cable and ran dual coils, really perked tings up and the points didn't seem to care.

[cableguy0]

100k+ on a decent unit. That doesn't include the wear parts such as cap/rotor plugs and wires. But all of that stuff lasts longer too with hei. Also looking at probably 2-3 mpg increase because of the hotter spark.

[silvertip67]

OK...the 2-3mpg sold me...@10mpg I can use a little help...I saw 2 units for sale @LMC...well actually three...is the basic one good enough to go with?

[cableguy0]

Just as a general rule skip over the overpriced junk and poor customer service that lmc sells. You can get a cheap unit for under 100 bucks. Stick with brand name and try for made in America if possible. A refurbed factory hei is generally the best bet.

[ERASER5]

Setting points with feeler gauge is the hard way. Use a Dwell Meter. Dials in much like setting timing. Still harder than not doing points at all. I'll stop beating the dead horse now.

[crazy longhorn]

On your 4x4, with tight clearance....you might stick with the stock distributor, use a Blue streak ,or Accel point set & add an MSD box to the mix? Toss the condenser in the trash, you wont need it....Longhorn

['68OrangeSunshine]

Pertronix uses a stock distributor and will fit the tight firewall clearance of an SBC in a K/ series truck.

[silvertip67]

the pertronix unit is with the system that does not use points, correct...one of the "rei" type ignitions?

a lot of this is only something I have seen in ads or catalogs etc, and have never had any personal experience with. I generally have been strict on the "all stock" set up...but after dealing with this for awhile , and then realizing I can increase gas mileage some it takes on a whole new perspective.

I have never taken a distributor out while the engine is is place...is this just a matter of "switching out" one system for the other?

on the MSD box...if you dont mind explain what that actually is...

thanks

[Gumby]

the dual spark of a MSD 6AL box reall perked up my Buick.

can be pricy if you can't get a deal on used.

[storm9c1]

FWIW, a MSD box tends to add a bit more extra wiring underhood and can get messy if you are used to a simple/stock setup. Do the benefits outweigh the lack of simplicity? Do you sacrifice some reliability? Possibly. The boxes can (and do) go bad... And the kicker is that there are offshore fakes out there.

A real benefit (that I see) of running a MSD box is that you can also add on a timing adjustment module and have a dial in the cab. Now THAT is a worthy mod especially if you run variable gas or tow variable loads.

A little off topic, but it was brought up.

Back on topic -- I'd go the HEI route myself -- you can even go other remote coil HEI setups if you'd rather stay away from Pertronix. But if you have the room, nothing beats a good stock GM HEI setup. I liked points for about 15 minutes when I first learned how to mess with them. But every engine (including old lawnmowers and marine outboards) get converted to electronic ignition in my world. I've even spent considerable time experimenting with small engine conversions (after admiring solid state ignition so much on big engines).

[silvertip67]

OK...this topic maybe should have been better called "good ignition for old cruisers"

I am an OK mechanic...but not close to the par of some of the officienados here...and quite frankly the presence of you folks is why I trust the forum so much...

yes I loved using the stock stuff...of course I have done so for over 40 years in all my old chevy trucks...a '55(full on wrap around rear windshield)...my '63 a good basic work truck...my '65 actually a place I stole more parts from...(a 283 block)...and my final find...the truck I aways wanted...a 4WD '67 w/ a 327...

but learning what is available out there by staandard channels has been very illuminating for sure...

did I get my new "UNI" points dialed in...yes( but the truck is still popping a bit under stress, I can see the evolution here in design actually))...am I aware of the possibilities of how much better my 327 wil run with the alternative...yes too...

I just need to save some allowance money for the change over...more than likely I will be back here asking for some answers to all the dumb questions...and I thank you all in advance for bearing with them...

thanks to all that have helped me out here...I just hope I can be of some help too someday...t ...

[cableguy0]

Originally Posted by silvertip67

OK...this topic maybe should have been better called "good ignition for old cruisers"


I just need to save some allowance money for the change over...more than likely I will be back here asking for some answers to all the dumb questions...and I thank you all in advance for bearing with them...

thanks to all that have helped me out here...I just hope I can be of some help too someday...t ...

No problem and your welcome. This is exactly why this forum exists and has so many members. Ask away.

[crazy longhorn]

I don't care what ign system that you play with...eventually, it will need some help? I have run the stock HEI , on most of my street bound toys...I played with points in the early days...(tween 5000-10000 miles on the street), she was ready for a tune up? I have also run the Pertronix Ignitors, really did not see an issue....if I got 15,000 miles out of the unit, My thoughts are that it payed its dues Take all the info, from all of the good guys here...then make you own dission. Have fun, shiney side up...Longhorn

[storm9c1]

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

I don't care what ign system that you play with...eventually, it will need some help? I have run the stock HEI , on most of my street bound toys...I played with points in the early days...(tween 5000-10000 miles on the street), she was ready for a tune up? I have also run the Pertronix Ignitors, really did not see an issue....if I got 15,000 miles out of the unit, My thoughts are that it payed its dues Take all the info, from all of the good guys here...then make you own dission. Have fun, shiney side up...Longhorn

+1. It's fun to play with all sorts of ignitions and learn. Points are good to know since it takes us back to our roots. Understanding points really makes you understand how timing, coil field collapse theory, and dwell all work together. In some applications, you can't beat the simplicity (or, eh, brute force) of them. You can be surprised at what can be learned from the old ways -- for example, it wasn't until I studied and experimented with points that I learned that the spark is produced at the moment when the points OPEN.

Understanding stuff like that eventually leads you to making better decisions about your ignition system -- including whether converting to electronic ignition is right for your or not.

[silvertip67]

all I can say is that I agree with the recent post 100%...learning the functions and mechanics of whats actually going on in the world of 327 integrally is pretty important to being able to be a good mechanic...

40 years ago dealing with points etc was a way of life...I must admit I became a bit slack due to having friends help me out with my old chevs...of course I retained the basics...but with most peroblems engine related it is always more of a claculus equation...

generally problems are never simple and ususally cross related...

I am starting a new thread on what is the best electronic system to go with a 327 in a '67 4WD...the motor is a bit farther back in that year due to the dealing with the solid front axel and the need to make room in the engine compatment etc...I know in my friends that have later years chev made some adjustments...

I found out that some change outs in my year truck(CST 67, K-20) that some ignition systems require actually jacking up the bell housing and temp undoing a motor mount??

if this can be avoided and just do a simple(sort of) R&R with the existing distributor...that is what I would like most...

thanks again for all the expertise here...if you have the dope as to what I need for my specific year & model...please post...OK...

all the best...t

[Gumby]

done it all, on a carb engine, the MSD box was the best. one of them things ya kick yourself later for not doing.

like a high stall TC, so simple, but big changes.

[cableguy0]

If you want something with the small cap theres about 100 options. You could go with and msd ready to run distributor or an msd with a 6al box. Theres also Mallory but Im not a huge fan of the unilite because they are extremely voltage sensitive. The petronix with a good coil is also an option. Theres also a Summit branded small cap hei as well. Your going to get many different answers from different people. Just stay away from the 50 dollar Chinese specials on ebay and you will probably be ok.

[burnin oil]

HEI fit my K20 with no problem but it is tight. The back 2 plug wires have to be just right and you cant use just any screwdiver to get the cap off. Definatly doable. Most people will tell you not to buy a new HEI distributer. Study up on shimming the dizzy for endplay, install a good factory module, and get a quality coil. Good as new and less than a chineese import.

[silvertip67]

OK...you are saying the HEI unit will fit the k-20...thats really all that matters...a short stubby to remove the cap is no problem...

my main concern is that the 67 is def different than the 69-72...dont know for sure on the 68...they moved the motor forward( making more clearance for the distributor) and also increased the height of the hood(not that its the issue here)

I like to play the radio with the key on and some here have said the petronix isnt good for that...but it is a better fit???

LMC sells the whole kit and kaboodle for 200 bucks...(HEI) this is probably what I will end up going with...my distributor is shot...and wont advance...plus I am tired of the 1/8" allen all the time to adjust the points ( I mean all the time) the biscuit is done plus there is some wear on the Distributor overall...time for a change...

I am not so concerned about being stock, just want the truck to run good...and the possibility of getting some better gas mileage is for sure a plus...

by the way...I dont speak the code so well, but I am learning...all the acronyms?? not all of us have all the stuff taken for granted by many front and center in their brains...

thanks as always for the remarks and help...and please bear with...t