Bilstien shock experiment $$ photos

[akart]

Here are some photos

[akart]

Photos show difference in body line front/back. Also where I had to drill new shock holes for my shock to reach. Before ORD springs Rancho shock compressed 4" to install and was supposed to be good for a 2" lift. W/shock moved to lower hole I only have 1.5" down travel. So I lost like 6.5". Does this look like a 2" lift? Front shocks fit okay w/about 1.5" down travel and the lift in front was 3". Also rear shackle which I had to move back 4" to get it like this. And the truck.

[Stephen Watson]

Let's drive the truck straight onto a level surface with the wheels pointed straight to get started. Then measure right over each wheel instead of at the very ends of the truck. This will tell us what is actually going on at each spring. I think the current measurements will be a lot different from before the hangers were moved.

[akart]

Originally Posted by Stephen Watson

Let's drive the truck straight onto a level surface with the wheels pointed straight to get started. Then measure right over each wheel instead of at the very ends of the truck. This will tell us what is actually going on at each spring. I think the current measurements will be a lot different from before the hangers were moved.

I did that last year and the improvement was 1.5 inches,still 3.5inches higher in the rear. Will measure again as soon as I can to verify.

[akart]

Originally Posted by Stephen Watson

Let's drive the truck straight onto a level surface with the wheels pointed straight to get started. Then measure right over each wheel instead of at the very ends of the truck. This will tell us what is actually going on at each spring. I think the current measurements will be a lot different from before the hangers were moved.

Just did some numbers and by taking the measurements from center of the wheel well as opposed to the overall length reduces the difference by 35%.

[cadillac_al]

You shouldn't have to make a new hole to make a shock fit. I guess it is a quick fix if your shock is a little too short and should still work just fine. Most trucks do sit higher in the rear. I put a 2" lift on the front of my K20 to level it out. Now the rear is 1" lower and may not look right to some people but it is always in attack mode and ready to power through a mud hole.

You pretty much have to measure your compressed shock length with the springs off and axle hitting the bump stops. Then you get the longest shock with that compressed length.

[CUCV2]

You may want to check the thread stick out on the top bolt of the shackle. I have a 87 K30 with the stock shackle hanger and a ORD shackle similar to what you have. Initially, I mounted the top shackle bolt the same way but the stickout hit the shackle hanger in rotation. I flipped the bolt around so it would clear and all was fine. May have even used a stock one vs. a greasable unit for clearance.

[akart]

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

You shouldn't have to make a new hole to make a shock fit. I guess it is a quick fix if your shock is a little too short and should still work just fine. Most trucks do sit higher in the rear. I put a 2" lift on the front of my K20 to level it out. Now the rear is 1" lower and may not look right to some people but it is always in attack mode and ready to power through a mud hole.

You pretty much have to measure your compressed shock length with the springs off and axle hitting the bump stops. Then you get the longest shock with that compressed length.

The shock was way too short that 2" lift came out to almost 7" in the back. Working on that. Yes sir,I need new shocks and I do know how to compute there length. Thank you!!

[akart]

Originally Posted by CUCV2

You may want to check the thread stick out on the top bolt of the shackle. I have a 87 K30 with the stock shackle hanger and a ORD shackle similar to what you have. Initially, I mounted the top shackle bolt the same way but the stickout hit the shackle hanger in rotation. I flipped the bolt around so it would clear and all was fine. May have even used a stock one vs. a greasable unit for clearance.

Spot on w/that. My photo; you're looking at the nut side,bolt head is on the inside. Thank you!

[CUCV2]

Originally Posted by akart

Spot on w/that. My photo; you're looking at the nut side,bolt head is on the inside. Thank you!

It looks like the greasable end is on the outside in the pic.

If you installed it with the weight off of it, then put weight on it, and it got hung up on the shackle hanger, that would certainly explain the increased height in the back and the stiff ride.

[akart]

Originally Posted by CUCV2

It looks like the greasable end is on the outside in the pic.

If you installed it with the weight off of it, then put weight on it, and it got hung up on the shackle hanger, that would certainly explain the increased height in the back and the stiff ride.

It is a greaseable end w/a nut on it that you see. Bolt head is on the in side and it swings and rides fine and is not hanging up. Thank you.

[nonstop]

Just throwing this out there - you could probably bring the back down a little bit by using 2wd rear spring hangers. No more dealing with springs, just replacing the hangers, and they should bolt up to the holes you already made.

[akart]

Originally Posted by nonstop

Just throwing this out there - you could probably bring the back down a little bit by using 2wd rear spring hangers. No more dealing with springs, just replacing the hangers, and they should bolt up to the holes you already made.

Here are photos of lift before and after the 2" ORD lift. Does that look like a 2" lift to you? Wish I had a better photo of the before lift but this all I have,but you get the idea.

[nonstop]

No, but that’s already been established. I simply am pointing out another option that looks like it would lower the rear and MAY be less headache than dealing with the springs.

[Stephen Watson]

And again, that's a picture from before the hanger was moved back. Get some current info and help us help you.