Where to start??? RUST REPAIR

[1971c10La]

Ok parts that's rusted out floor pan /rocker /inner rocker /front/ back pilar /footwell /outer cab floor /front and back cab support don't think I left something out where to start what part to replace frist don't have enough money to buy all parts at once or a whole floor and help please thanks

[1971c10La]

Pics

[GR8-68]

I hate to say it but the best thing you could do is save your money to buy a complete floor pan, that is a considerable amount and is even crawling up the a and b pillars. How is the cowl and roof line on this cab ?

[In The Ten Ring]

I was thinking the same thing........although I have zero experience welding up vehicle sheet metal....that may be "too much rust."

[1971c10La]

The roof and cowl is in good shape last thing I wanted to do was the roof lol but a whole floor pan could b a way to go but I'm to scared to cut the whole floor out and I was gonna buy pieces at a time so what parts could I start with also cab corner is bad

[Orange Crate]

Before you get too far into disassembly, brace that cab with some welded in struts to the door jamb and hinge area, also from side to side from the same spots. The cab will twist and you won't be able to adjust your doors or they will flat out not fit. It will also play H3LL when it comes time to align your fenders to door gaps and grill. Most weld in 1" square tubing. Leave enough room to still crawl in to the cab if you need to weld inside.

[GASoline71]

Save your money to do it right the first time. Piecing that together is gonna take awhile. That rig needs a whole new floor pan and like mentioned above, the rot is far into the A and b pillars. Might even look at saving for a different cab.

No way to go about it without throwing money at it.

Gary

[1971c10La]

What parts do I need to buy that's don't come with a whole floor pan

[BlueBullet]

If I am understanding the question correctly and with going by the pictures. The pieces you will most likely need with a complete floor are A and B pilers kick panels outer rockers and cab corners.

[raggedjim]

I'll just throw this out there, people repaired these trucks WAY before a complete floor pan was available... You need to take a hard, critical look at your floor, it can probably be saved.

Not trying to sway you one way or the other, but I've had a few of these trucks and never had to replace the whole floor pan.

Good luck, Rg

[1971c10La]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

I'll just throw this out there, people repaired these trucks WAY before a complete floor pan was available... You need to take a hard, critical look at your floor, it can probably be saved.

Not trying to sway you one way or the other, but I've had a few of these trucks and never had to replace the whole floor pan.

Good luck, Rg

Ok so what panel do you start with if I don't do the whole floor pan I don't want to weld something up and realize later the other panel should have went first

[dfwright]

The nice thing about the whole floor is that it's the whole floor, one piece. Big, bulky, and takes some work to get right, but it's so much better than this:

1: Passenger Front cab brace
2: Passenger Rear cab brace
3: Passenger floor pan patch
4: Passenger inner rocker patch
5: Passenger kick panel patch
6: Passenger A pillar patch
7: Passenger B pillar patch
8: Passenger cab corner
9: Passenger outer rocker

10: Passenger sheetmetal fabrication for areas patches aren't available

Repeat for Driver's side.

To be fair, you'll still need some of these patches even if you do the whole floor, but it will save you a great deal of time, effort and potential heartburn, as every one of those individual patches gives you an opportunity to mis-align parts.

I did my floor with individual patches, it can be done, but it does take a long time, and a lot of extra effort to do well.

[raggedjim]

DFWRIGHT has the correct order.

Do one side at a time. Don't cut out everything all at once and then start replacing things.

For some reason I always have more trouble with the drivers side (may just be my perception).

The front fender lower mounting bracket isn't reproduced, you will need to keep the originals or find good ones.

IF you decide to replace the whole floor as a unit you WILL have to make sure you brace the cab. I have pulled off and on the front fenders and doors on my jimmy at least 10 times to ensure everything is lined up. The cab of the truck is no different, you will have to check alignment throughout the process.

Even using the complete floor you will still have to do these;
5: Passenger kick panel patch
6: Passenger A pillar patch
7: Passenger B pillar patch
8: Passenger cab corner
9: Passenger outer rocker

and the same for drivers side.

Good luck, Rg

[AussieinNC]

After looking at the pics, in my opinion, it seems you have two choices:

1/ Replace the entire floor section in one piece, after cross bracing the cab across at least 6 planes...when bracing, don't trust the current cross measurements as they will be off due to the loss of the inner rocker floor areas...

or

2/ Find yourself another cab that is in better condition...

A full floor without freight will run you around $450 to $500, plus the additional pieces. There are various vendors out there...

Depending on your welding and fab skills, you would most likely be looking at around 100 hours of labor to repair the current cab...if the pics show all the damage.

Best of luck...hope this helps...

[BlueBullet]

Efabman has a DVD set that is very helpful or there is some videos on YouTube that are helpful but not to detailed