Sun Tachometer Retrospective

[pdxhall]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Please share with us what inverter you are using. I’ve looked on Radio Shack and don’t find what you are describing.

I have been thinking about modifying mine to run without batteries. I know a little something about electronics, so it doesn't seem to be too difficult, but I would also like you to share what you did.
Another thing. I am pretty old school on modern setups so I would like to know what the difference is on what signal is sent from an HEI ignition as compared to standard points ignition. I was planning on studying up on this with the possibility of also converting this tach to work with HEI.

[burbluv]

Hey Mark,
Thanks so much for this awesome thread! So here is my question. I am looking to put a Sun tach in my 62 burb (probably on the column) and I am trying to stay as correct as possible. It seems like my 3 choices are the RC model, the RC model with the bakelite screw and the rc with the red football. I am also seeing all different ranging on RPMs 0-4000, 0-7000, 0-8500 So what do most people think would be the most correct RPM range and model. I do not think the FZ models are until later so I did not put that as an option.
Here are a few photos.
Thanks,
AJ

[pope]

Look on ebay there is an instrument cluster with the factory tach and harness
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[burbluv]

for a 62?

[pope]

It will fit a 62 as long as you have the full gauge pannel. The tach will interchange. The only difference that I have noticed is the font at the bottom that says "rpm hundreds" some have slightly larger type than others. I guess that it depends on what you are after. I bought a repoduction unit that's in my 61 diesel from classic ind. and like it. I also have the factory setup and am getting ready to convert the eb-9a transmitter to run without batteries. If it works I will post what needed to be done so that anyone wanting can do the same and keep the factory appearance.
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[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by fink64

This I Know " thread. 1964-66 Dash

what tach is in the 64-66 gauge cluster pictured is it a sun pro if so what model is it or whats my best option for putting a tach in my gauge cluster

The original tach would have been an EB-8 sun tach. Does not require a converter box to use. Its a self-contained unit.

[aerotruk63]

[burbluv]

OK now I am getting some conlicting info. Aerotruk has the documents above that show it with an RPM range of 5000 and needing a transmitter and as long as that is the documents for a 62 I am leaning towards his info as being correct?

[burbluv]

Hey Pope,
Is this the one you were talking about.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-65-66-C10...sories&vxp=mtr
If so it is for a 64-66. The shape of the surround is slightly different than my 62 and would not fit. Maybe I am not finding the right one. If you know of a different one can you send the link?
Thanks

[pope]

Yeah that's the one, and I think there was another as well. I was thinking of bidding on it for the air gauge . The original tachs do use the transmitter, however there is a place that will refinish them and update them with solid state components, so you wont need the transmitter. But for the price the repros look and work well.
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[pope]

The tach will interchange as long as you have the full gauge pannel in your 62, I was thinking that that's what you had already. I can look tonight and pm you the link. Do you have the full gauge set with the spots for the tach now?
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[1963c-10]

There is a difference in the GM and Chevy factory tachs. The Chevy factory tach I have (EB-8) requires no converter box. The chevy tach mounts in the dash and is not encased in glass or metal. The guage mounts like any other guage in the cluster and fits behind the guage cluster "glass". The tach labeled part # 2233887 is enclosed and requires a converter. This is a reproduction of the EB-8. I can pull the original out of the dash if better pics are needed.

[burbluv]

Thanks 1963C-10! So that one pictured above is what would work if I can find the nicer cluster. Did you find that aftermarket? If so where please also need to find one for the air pressure gauge on the other side. So if anyone knows where I can get all three pieces I would be very interested.
Thanks again

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by burbluv

Hey Mark,
Thanks so much for this awesome thread! So here is my question. I am looking to put a Sun tach in my 62 burb (probably on the column) and I am trying to stay as correct as possible. It seems like my 3 choices are the RC model, the RC model with the bakelite screw and the rc with the red football. I am also seeing all different ranging on RPMs 0-4000, 0-7000, 0-8500 So what do most people think would be the most correct RPM range and model. I do not think the FZ models are until later so I did not put that as an option.
Here are a few photos.
Thanks,
AJ

If we’re just talking “period correct” and not “factory stock”, the RC without the zero adjuster screw would have been most commonly available for a person buying a brand new tach in 1962. For dash top or steering column mounting, it would almost certainly have been mounted in the short “pinch” cup, as shown on your football tach. This is the type with the clamp underneath (centered over a split in the cup) and two holes with grommets for the wiring.

Reproductions of these cups are currently available, but they are not inexpensive:



http://www.show-cars.com/cgi-bin/com...ction&key=3597

Any add-on tachometer would also most likely have an RPM range of 6,000-8,500. Racers bought a tach based on requirements. Most kids bought tachs because they were cool, and a high rpm scale was essential for impressing friends and allowing for that powerful racing engine that was going to be installed sometime in the future.

The earliest photo I’ve seen of the "football" tach was taken in 1956, so it would have been available in 1962, but perhaps not as a brand new unit at the local speed shop. When I obtained a used football tach in the early 70's, it already looked "very" old.

To the best of my knowledge, the “long cup” with the two mounting nuts on the back was introduced with the FZ series, and was designed to accommodate the transmitter section added to the back of the head (eliminating the separate transmitter box). With this design the split in the cup, the clamp, and the grommet holes were eliminated. Wiring exited the hollow bracket mounting nut, and the tach head was attached to the cup by the two acorn nuts on the back. This newer cup design was shortened and replaced the standard pinch cup sometime shortly after introduction of the FZ series.

The earliest photo I have of an FZ tach is shown in the March 1963 issue of Car Craft magazine in a hot rod Model T. According to the license plates on the car, the photo was taken in 1962. The tach head is the standard half sweep with no adjuster screw on the face. I would suggest this confirms the early style FZ tachometer was indeed available at some point during 1962, making this also period correct for your application (as long as it doesn’t have the zero adjuster screw).

I don’t remember exactly when the Bakelite zero adjuster screw was introduced, but by 1964 it was prominently featured on half sweep tachs in period advertisements, along with its replacement, the full sweep Sun Super Tach.

Good luck on whatever you pick.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by burbluv

Thanks 1963C-10! So that one pictured above is what would work if I can find the nicer cluster. Did you find that aftermarket? If so where please also need to find one for the air pressure gauge on the other side. So if anyone knows where I can get all three pieces I would be very interested.
Thanks again

Yes, that's the correct guage for the 60-63 chevy factory guage cluster. It'll will also fit the 64-66 I believe. It installs with no modification to the cluster. Just remove the right delete plate as your looking at the cluster. The air or vacuum guage goes on the left side. There are several guage clusters on ebay. The air guages came in the trucks with air brakes, so be looking in the large trucks. The vacuum guages are a little harder to find and also fit on the left side. PM me about vac guage and I can help find that. The pic above is from Classic Parts of America, but I can provide pics of the side & back views of an original if anybody needs them.

As far as wiring the tach...super easy. The tachs ground is through the metal dash so there are only two wires to connect. The power wire plugs into the fuse panel and the sensor wire is hooked to the (-)negative terminal of the coil.

[pope]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

There is a difference in the GM and Chevy factory tachs. The Chevy factory tach I have (EB-8) requires no converter box. The chevy tach mounts in the dash and is not encased in glass or metal. The guage mounts like any other guage in the cluster and fits behind the guage cluster "glass". The tach labeled part # 2233887 is enclosed and requires a converter. This is a reproduction of the EB-8. I can pull the original out of the dash if better pics are needed.

Sorry, I mi understood what you were saying in the above post with which tachs used the transmitter. There were a couple different ways that they could be had, either from the plant which had a couple different part numbers or added by the dealer which may have included a transmitter. The back of the tach indicated if it needed a transmitter or hooked directly to the distributor. her is a picture of one in my 65 K10. this one does not require a transmitter.








and the one in my 61 k20 diesel which is the aftermarket one from calssic industries.




The other two on ebay were done already one for 300 and one with a clock for 350.

[1963c-10]

Yeah...thats what I was tryna say...sometimes my brain and fingers dont register properly. Thanks for the pics of the back & side, saves me having to pull mine out of the dash. Mine also has a date stamp on the back.....I believe it was april 64. I pulled it from a 64 1 ton couple of years ago.

[kieth]

I sent my sun tach to Williams instruments in Hot Springs Arkansas, they converted the tach to modern internal wiring, cost $200.00 works like a champ....Kieth

[T2vigil]

I have a tach that looks like the one in post 91 with the following exceptions.
The model is: 0E-6 and it is specific for 8 cyl 12 Volt. It is no good to me since I will be keeping the In-Line 6 in the truck. Any information on this tach would be appreciated. The big question is does it need a transmitter.

[pope]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Yeah...thats what I was tryna say...sometimes my brain and fingers dont register properly. Thanks for the pics of the back & side, saves me having to pull mine out of the dash. Mine also has a date stamp on the back.....I believe it was april 64. I pulled it from a 64 1 ton couple of years ago.

We both were trying to say the same thing, just differently Nice truck too!

[pope]

Originally Posted by T2vigil

I have a tach that looks like the one in post 91 with the following exceptions.
The model is: 0E-6 and it is specific for 8 cyl 12 Volt. It is no good to me since I will be keeping the In-Line 6 in the truck. Any information on this tach would be appreciated. The big question is does it need a transmitter.

Does the back of the tach have the post marked Dist? It has been to long to rember now but I think that the ones that required the transmitter had labled the post as "trans" and there was a paper warranty tag on that post of those as well... some one should be able to either confirm or state otherwise.

[1963c-10]

If it looks like this, no converter required.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by T2vigil

I have a tach that looks like the one in post 91 with the following exceptions.
The model is: 0E-6 and it is specific for 8 cyl 12 Volt. It is no good to me since I will be keeping the In-Line 6 in the truck. Any information on this tach would be appreciated. The big question is does it need a transmitter.

No.

[T2vigil]

Thanks for the info. It almost makes me want to put a V8 in the truck but not quite.

[ol_skool_chevy]

Originally Posted by LeftCoast32

Here is my finished Vac and Tac Cluster

can you still get theses vacuum gauges>,,,,,what did they come in?