Just bought this '67 lwb - sat on a farm most of it's life.

[BlueBullet]

After doing work on my cab the next time I will be buying the complete floor. It is really time consuming to do it right. After adding up price on prices and my time it would of been better to go that route. For another $150 I could have bought the hole floor. I also had to fab some pieces. Like others have said rust is like an iceberg. Once you start digging you find more. Just a thought

[Shelby0099]

Thanks Guys. I really want to keep it mostly stock but I am tempted to convert it to a short bed. I have to weigh the time involved, but once I take the cab off the frame it'll be really tough to not think about cutting the frame. Please tell me it will still be worth a decent amount of money if I keep it a long bed...lol.

[Shelby0099]

Thank you BlueBullet, yes I agree. I could save a bunch of work with just doing an entire new floor. Considering the areas that are currently rotting I'd have to buy a new floor just to get the sections I'll need. They sell them in halfs I think, but might as well get the full floor. The sheetmetal cost with all the panels I need and including a new floor is roughly a total of at least $1000.

I'll get patch panels for the doors and i'd like to fabricate a few things. The lower front fenders need patching and I just can't see buying all new fenders just to patch them or replace them entirely. I want to keep the fenders and the doors original. I've found patches for the lower rear portion of the fenders but can't find for the front. Same thing for the inner fenders, they've rotted in the front corner but other than that they're good.

[kehstr]

subscribed to watch the updates

[Shelby0099]

I'm still doing preparations in garage before I really tear the truck down but I had a chance to take off one of the valve covers. This truck has the PowerPack heads as you can kind of make out the triangle symbol on the front of the head underneath the muck.

So far, with the valve cover off, this side looks pretty clean...the engine only had slightly less than 10k miles on it.

My plan is to focus on keeping it mostly stock for now, just cleaning everything up, do the metal work, rebuild stock components but convert single exhaust to dual, maybe headers but I do like the ram horns. Will probably put in a mild cam with C3B intake and 500cfm Edelbrock. I want it to have great throttle response and bring out that Chevy sound.

[dazza]

Were those tires on it when you picked it up? Who makes them with pin stripes like that? Just curious.

[sherm6413]

Caution!! My semi-low-budget is at 13,000 currently and that's me doing the work on everything but paint! I think another 3,000 should finish her though(3rd time I have said that)!!!!

[Shelby0099]

Yes, these were the tires that were on the truck when I got it. The name on the tire is ROADEO BOOTS, the model says COUNTRY. I looked it up and apparently they were a private label brand designed and marketed by Art Borgeson of Roadeo, Inc. but manufactured by GoodYear beginning in 1997....and ending in 1998. They didn't sell very well.

[Shelby0099]

Wow Sherm, 13k already without paint? I know it gets out of hand.

I've learned my lesson from previous projects. For this truck, i've made my list and its around $4600....that's for sheetmetal, new wiring, glass, bushings, tires, drum brake rebuild...etc..most everything I'll need to make it nicely functional and presentable....nothing majorly custom...i probably will move gas tank to rear...maybe even build my own tank now that I have a TIG welder....but focus is on a stock rebuild...except carb and intake..which i might find cheaper on eBay or swap meet etc.

But now for the paint, I'm gonna try to get away with a Rustoleum hand rolled job and spraypaint the bumpers and grill trim. If it looks a little fauxtina that's just fine, I may play with the ride height but im gonna try to stay away from custom suspension for now.

I'd love to do a short bed conversion, but I'll see how I really feel about that later.

The engine/transmission should not need a rebuild...I hope. I'm counting on it because it only has 10k miles. That may change but the big dollars I spent on my last project were for all custom drivetrain and suspension components. I don't want that for this truck.

I'll check out your thread...thank you.

[68Gold/white]

Keeping this thing low budget can be done...My thought is to do things with priorities...
1. Cab has to be repaired.
2. True engine condition will be known when you pull the intake and look at the cam lobes,
hoping for no shiny lobes!
3. Rebuilding the stock carb would be cheap, would help w/ budget.
4. Completely rebuilding stock (although I HATE drum brakes) would not be too
expensive, even if you bought all new parts, including drums and cylinders.
You could re-do the stock brakes, buy the new 5 lug axles from Moser ($260.00/pair)
and buy 5 lug drums for the rear, this would work exactly the same as the stock
setup, then you'd be ready for the front disc conversion, possibly later, if your wallet
is like mine, mine runs dry too often...
5. Lowering parts can come later...they are some of the more costly parts, $$$ wise and time wise (at least to me...)

Keep up the good work!
Is Plainfield in the states?

[5567Cruiser]

Nice find, I just finished a 67 LWB which took about 6 years and I am still working some bugs out like leaks etc. A piece of advice, I replaced about everything on suspension, brakes, steering and I forgot about rear axle seals and pinion seal. My truck had sat for about 25 years and the seals were shot. My word for you is perservence as sometimes you feel like it will never be on the road but then the end is in sight and that 1st cruise makes it all worth it. Good Luck!

[Shelby0099]

Hey 68Gold/White,

Thank you, yes S. Plainfield is in the constipated state of New Jersey.

I agree, the Cab is where most of the effort and cash is going to go. Although it doesn't completely need it, I am most likely going to get an entire floor and just replace the whole thing. Going to build a rotisserie first so I can comfortably replace all the bad metal.

Drum Brakes - yes I really would prefer big brake disc conversion but I want to give the drum brakes a chance. I'll put in a power booster and drill some holes in the drums. Is there any other reason you hate drum brakes other than their problems with brake fade?

Good point on doing the rear 5 lug conversion first, I just want to keep the wheels as they are, at first. Down the road I can get 5 lug wheels.

For lowering I was going to 'assume' that the springs still have life in them, however for sitting so long they probably pitted too much to really expect a lot. I think i'll just cut a coil out for each and see how they last.

What do you think about a SWB conversion? I have so much work to do on the cab I may not have the patience to cut up the frame as well. I think with this truck it's going to be a driveable work in progress, so once im done with the metal work then I can see if that's what i want. I may wait to get a bigger place to do so.

I think the order should be clean up the frame, rebuild components and then start the majority of metal work. I'll be able to make more progress that way and then I can take my time with metal work. I know how to MIG weld but I need practice to learn how to TIG first.

[Shelby0099]

5567Cruiser.

Thank you, yes that is a good point. I probably would have skipped that too but I'll make a note to do the seals in the rear.

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by Shelby0099

Hey 68Gold/White,

Thank you, yes S. Plainfield is in the constipated state of New Jersey.

I agree, the Cab is where most of the effort and cash is going to go. Although it doesn't completely need it, I am most likely going to get an entire floor and just replace the whole thing. Going to build a rotisserie first so I can comfortably replace all the bad metal.

Drum Brakes - yes I really would prefer big brake disc conversion but I want to give the drum brakes a chance. I'll put in a power booster and drill some holes in the drums. Is there any other reason you hate drum brakes other than their problems with brake fade?

Good point on doing the rear 5 lug conversion first, I just want to keep the wheels as they are, at first. Down the road I can get 5 lug wheels.

For lowering I was going to 'assume' that the springs still have life in them, however for sitting so long they probably pitted too much to really expect a lot. I think i'll just cut a coil out for each and see how they last.

What do you think about a SWB conversion? I have so much work to do on the cab I may not have the patience to cut up the frame as well. I think with this truck it's going to be a driveable work in progress, so once im done with the metal work then I can see if that's what i want. I may wait to get a bigger place to do so.

I think the order should be clean up the frame, rebuild components and then start the majority of metal work. I'll be able to make more progress that way and then I can take my time with metal work. I know how to MIG weld but I need practice to learn how to TIG first.

Drum brakes are at their best when new, w/ all new components, then they are still not good stoppers compared to disc (2 wheel disc, 4 wheel disc is not needed, my opinion).
Drums act goofy when wet, and I'm a fan of all things Chevy, but they used 11X2 shoes, front and rear, not enough friction area on fronts, my opinion.

Folks cut in front of you in traffic, have no idea that that seemingly large distance you were leaving in front of you, was so that you could stop your 4 wheel drum 4500 pound antique pickup (complete w/ antique original brakes)

Drilling 6 lug drums for 5 lug conversion can be done, however one of the 5 holes overlaps one of the original 6 lug holes. Just buy a set of 5 lug drums for a 73 w/ 11X2 shoes. Same goes if you are thinking of converting your 6 lug axles. Beware center pilot hole in drum/on axle is larger on 6 lug stuff.

I might do the drum deal for a year or so on my 67, converting rear to 5 lug, using stock wheels, they are abundant and cheap.

I plan to leave front springs as is on my 67, they sag some from age, and suspension geometry can get screwy, even though there are answers to that deal, they also cost $$$, I want my ride to be a usable pickup, function wise.

I'm not a big fan of the short bed deal, when you haul stuff, ALL the weight is on the rear axle. It's a lot of work, many builds here w/ detail how to do it, just not my deal. If I wanted a cowboy cadillac, I might go the short bet route...LOL

Keeping stuff driveable is a GOOD thing, once it starts sitting you can't drive it, and someone will not like that, wife, neighbor, city laws...etc.

[Shelby0099]

Hi everyone, I am continuing this thread on an official build thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...94#post7545994

Thank you

[johnperri]

Can you trace the emblem onto a sheet of paper and send it to me. I am looking to have it remade but need a better sample/drawing to start from. You can email me it to johnperri@comcast.net.

I will keep you posted on my progress and what it might cost to have made.

Thanks,

John