Rear drum brakes

[rchavez101]

Has anyone come across a "How to" article on repairing/rebuilding drum brakes on a c1500? I have never had to mess with drum brakes and have always felt intimidated with them. I would imagine they are not that hard to do but having never done them I don't know. Thanks in advance.

[ChevLoRay]

Here's a good rule if you have never done a drum brake job...Before you take anything apart, take some digital pix. Oh, pull the drum off, first.

Do one side at a time. Use the other side as a pattern, so you can refer to it.

The hardest thing is to take the springs off. If you don't have any brake spring pliers, get some. To take the springs off....one end of the tool will fit onto the stud where the springs are attached. (The other end of the spring is attached to the brake shoe). Anyway, fit the end of the tool over the stud and turn it so that the outer end of the tool (at the stud end) gets underneath the end of the spring and it wll come loose. Remove the springs. Now, there will be two round springs beneath a small metal cap that has what some call "nails" with a flat end. There is a screw-driver type of tool that fits onto the "cap". Push it towards the backing plate and turn it 1/4 turn. On the backside of the backing plate, that "nail" can be pulled thru. There are a couple more items attached to the lower ends of the brake shoes...that are part of the automatic adjusting mechanism. Don't lose 'em.

I'm gonna bet that someone has posted a how-to on youtube. Get a Haynes or Chilton manual.

Before you blow all the dust off of the assembly, put on a dust mask. There could be some asbestos in the lining compound.

When you have it apart sufficiently, use a can of Brake Parts Cleaner and spray it all down. Let the dirty stuff wash into a suitable container. It will evaporate quickly.

Get some White Grease and lightly touch it to the backing plates where the shiny spots are; those are the places that the back side of the shoes contact the backing plate. It's intentional.

The other end of that spring removal tool will have a groove and a lip. When you are reinstalling the springs that you first removed, the lip hooks onto the top of that stud and the end of the spring is placed onto the tool. As you lift the outer end of the tool, it will serve to guide the hook end of the spring, onto the stud.

[rchavez101]

Originally Posted by ChevLoRay

Here's a good rule if you have never done a drum brake job...Before you take anything apart, take some digital pix. Oh, pull the drum off, first.

Do one side at a time. Use the other side as a pattern, so you can refer to it.

The hardest thing is to take the springs off. If you don't have any brake spring pliers, get some. To take the springs off....one end of the tool will fit onto the stud where the springs are attached. (The other end of the spring is attached to the brake shoe). Anyway, fit the end of the tool over the stud and turn it so that the outer end of the tool (at the stud end) gets underneath the end of the spring and it wll come loose. Remove the springs. Now, there will be two round springs beneath a small metal cap that has what some call "nails" with a flat end. There is a screw-driver type of tool that fits onto the "cap". Push it towards the backing plate and turn it 1/4 turn. On the backside of the backing plate, that "nail" can be pulled thru. There are a couple more items attached to the lower ends of the brake shoes...that are part of the automatic adjusting mechanism. Don't lose 'em.

I'm gonna bet that someone has posted a how-to on youtube. Get a Haynes or Chilton manual.

Before you blow all the dust off of the assembly, put on a dust mask. There could be some asbestos in the lining compound.

When you have it apart sufficiently, use a can of Brake Parts Cleaner and spray it all down. Let the dirty stuff wash into a suitable container. It will evaporate quickly.

Get some White Grease and lightly touch it to the backing plates where the shiny spots are; those are the places that the back side of the shoes contact the backing plate. It's intentional.

The other end of that spring removal tool will have a groove and a lip. When you are reinstalling the springs that you first removed, the lip hooks onto the top of that stud and the end of the spring is placed onto the tool. As you lift the outer end of the tool, it will serve to guide the hook end of the spring, onto the stud.

Thanks I appreciate the info. Are they self adjusting?

[Good Sport]

I did my rear drums a few months ago. A helpful tip is to have both drums off, and do only one wheel at the time. That way you can have one side as a point of reference. The springs can be a pita, so be sure to have a good spring/brake tool. Yes, the brakes are self adjusting type.

[ChevLoRay]

By design....but, you can adjust them (and you should) before putting them into service. The adjuster is at the bottom of the backing plate. There should be a knock-out on the backing plate to allow you to insert a brake spoon. But, it's tricky. You also have to insert a small diameter screwdriver to push the "lock" away from the star wheel on the wheel cylinder.

Seriously, you need to look for some video that someone has posted to watch. If you have never done drum brakes before, it would be a good thing to have an experienced person on standby. If not, and if you have any reservations....have 'em done.

This is one of those jobs that is easier to do than to tell how to do it.

[95haganml]

The Brakes can be cleaned using a spray bottle filled with soapy water and a clean solvent brush. Spray, then brush. Spray again. Repeat until the dust is removed. Capture the runoff in a catch pan. Allow the water to evaporate and clean up the dust. Most brake friction components (brake pads, shoes) haven't used asbestos for some time but contrary to popular opinion it hasn't been phased out completely. Always wear protection (breathing masks and gloves) when working on these systems. I wouldn't use the paper filters that do not seal on your face, the dust will get past the edges.
Brake Clean is a Non-Chlorinated Hydrocarbon volatile fluid. It is expensive. It is also flammable and can cause nerve damage with repeated exposure. Use in an open area, do not allow fumes to concentrate.

[rchavez101]

Thanks for the input everyone. My father in law said he would help me. I just like to get as much info before starting the job.
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