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Old 12-09-2013, 09:18 AM   #76
Jahloha
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp rat View Post
That's some great motivation! Your making great progress, better than me thats for sure.

One thing caught my eye unrelated to the build, that it appears you have some kind of an entry way above the truck, looking at the banister it goes up then comes forward to the garage door area.. That would also mean you have a really tall garage ceiling too?
Yup. Out garage ceiling is probably 12-14 feet or so, maybe a little more then that.
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:18 AM   #77
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

My grandfather was also called Gramps. Your thread title caught my attention. You've got a great story to go along with your build.

I know how the weather can ruin your motivation. I grew up in Oregon, so I'd much rather work in the winter here in Texas than in the summer. I guess every place has its draw backs. Just keep going and you'll get that ride with your Gramps. It's awesome that your wife supports you in your efforts. Even bearing the cold with you.

Great progress so far. I'll be following along from here on. Keep up the great work!
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Old 12-09-2013, 12:10 PM   #78
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

Very nice progress on the truck.
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:11 PM   #79
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

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Originally Posted by knomadd View Post
My grandfather was also called Gramps. Your thread title caught my attention. You've got a great story to go along with your build.

I know how the weather can ruin your motivation. I grew up in Oregon, so I'd much rather work in the winter here in Texas than in the summer. I guess every place has its draw backs. Just keep going and you'll get that ride with your Gramps. It's awesome that your wife supports you in your efforts. Even bearing the cold with you.

Great progress so far. I'll be following along from here on. Keep up the great work!
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Very nice progress on the truck.
Thanks guys.
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Old 12-10-2013, 12:24 AM   #80
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

UPDATE:

I have been waiting for some time to work on the frame using a wire wheel, to see what kind of shape the frame is in. Here is the short list of things I learned after 2 minutes of wire wheeling:

-My Makita wireless drills will drain battery too fast, gotta use a wired drill
-The frame seems to be in great shape with mostly minimal surface rust (gotta love CA frames)
-It is definitely not safe to do this sort of thing without a mask/respirator; so I will be buying one tomorrow before I continue on with this part of the build
-I am now more excited to get warm enough weather to prime and paint the front end of the frame.

I plan on addressing the frame in three steps: front end, back end, then under the cab. Seeing as I plan on leaving the cab on for this restoration, I want to work on the frame as I work on that section. I think this will keep me focused with the task at hand and not get ahead of myself tearing everything down, just to paint the frame, then not know where to start once I begin putting things together.

Here are some pics from my 2 min session, I chose an 18" section on the front end to work on.

Before:
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After:
Name:  After Wire Brush.jpg
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Additional Photos:
Name:  More Wire Brush Cleaning.jpg
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Name:  Wire Brush More.jpg
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Name:  Wire Brush Product.jpg
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Mahalo!
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Old 12-10-2013, 12:32 AM   #81
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

INSIGHT:

I was using Marine Clean on the frame after I had wheeled it for a minute, but the nothing was coming out of the spray bottle. I pumped and pumped the handle, but nothing came out. I finally realized that it had frozen.

So for everyone in cold states, dont keep your Marine Clean outside, it might just freeze!
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:57 AM   #82
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahloha View Post
INSIGHT:

I was using Marine Clean on the frame after I had wheeled it for a minute, but the nothing was coming out of the spray bottle. I pumped and pumped the handle, but nothing came out. I finally realized that it had frozen.

So for everyone in cold states, dont keep your Marine Clean outside, it might just freeze!
LOL! Too funny!

Something to consider, and i don't know if your planning on using rattle cans or a gun but bare metal and cold moist air means you will probably flash rust before spring, I'd consider cleaning an area then get your heater on it and warm it up and prime it as you go.

BTW: i'd love to have a tall ceiling like that.
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Old 12-10-2013, 03:25 PM   #83
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

...Or you could just coat it with WD40 for the cold months to keep the moisture away, then use a grease and wax remover to clean it up really well before you paint.

Just another option for you.
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:03 PM   #84
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

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Originally Posted by swamp rat View Post
LOL! Too funny!

Something to consider, and i don't know if your planning on using rattle cans or a gun but bare metal and cold moist air means you will probably flash rust before spring, I'd consider cleaning an area then get your heater on it and warm it up and prime it as you go.

BTW: i'd love to have a tall ceiling like that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by knomadd View Post
...Or you could just coat it with WD40 for the cold months to keep the moisture away, then use a grease and wax remover to clean it up really well before you paint.

Just another option for you.
I am thinking about Rustoleums bare metal primer for the front end. I will clean to bare metal of pass side tonight, primer tomorrow. Not sure if this will be successful, but I dont feel like I can wait til spring to do paint. Hopefully I am not acting foolishly
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:30 PM   #85
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

read the directions first. I believe, even the bare metal primer is suggested to be sprayed in a 72 degree environment. Meaning it won't cure for a LONG time if it's cooler than that. It's never advised to paint in sub 50 degree weather without some sort of heater to warm up the room... or at least a high powered light that generates a lot of heat to warm up the metal. Don't use a heater as it could set the paint on fire.

EDIT: I mean to say, don't put a heater facing the painted part as it could cause a fire. Using a heater to warm up the metal first isn't a bad idea. If you heat up the metal first, you can paint the surface and use a flood light type lamp to help keep it warm to cure correctly.
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:37 PM   #86
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

I posted this on your frame thread but using paint stripping discs work good as well for stripping off the paint as well as the grease that built up.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=584223
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:41 PM   #87
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

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Originally Posted by knomadd View Post
read the directions first. I believe, even the bare metal primer is suggested to be sprayed in a 72 degree environment. Meaning it won't cure for a LONG time if it's cooler than that. It's never advised to paint in sub 50 degree weather without some sort of heater to warm up the room... or at least a high powered light that generates a lot of heat to warm up the metal. Don't use a heater as it could set the paint on fire.

EDIT: I mean to say, don't put a heater facing the painted part as it could cause a fire. Using a heater to warm up the metal first isn't a bad idea. If you heat up the metal first, you can paint the surface and use a flood light type lamp to help keep it warm to cure correctly.
That makes sense. It might be worth a decent flood lamp for this because like I had mentioned, I gotta get the frame painted and ready by Feb to keep with my schedule. Does that make sense? Also, a laser temp gauge might be helpful, so one at HF for about 25 bucks.

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Originally Posted by KMC3420 View Post
I posted this on your frame thread but using paint stripping discs work good as well for stripping off the paint as well as the grease that built up.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=584223
Thanks bud, I saw this on that thread. Appreciate the thorough follow up.
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Old 12-11-2013, 12:08 PM   #88
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

Something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-wa...ght-66439.html

I have one similar to this, and it has a high and low setting on each lamp. They get pretty warm, so they should be able to keep your painted area at a decent temp, assuming it's not like 20 below in your shop. If you can keep your shop in the 40s or 50s, it would make painting a much simpler task. If not, paint a small area that the light can keep warm, them move on from there. It will take longer, but it beats waiting until it's warm enough to paint without it.

I would definitely try to heat the metal up to about 65 degrees or higher first. That way the paint that's touching the metal won't be soft for weeks while the top cures. If you can keep the metal and the top painted surface at a similar temp (say within 10 degrees of each other), it will cure pretty evenly all the way through.

It sounds harder than it really is. If you've got a small space heater, use it to heat up the frame, then move it while you paint. After you're done painting, put the heater behind the frame, but not so close to cause the paint to heat up too high, and put the shop light on the other side of the frame so the surfaces can maintain an even temp.
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Old 12-11-2013, 01:17 PM   #89
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

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Originally Posted by knomadd View Post
Something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-wa...ght-66439.html

I have one similar to this, and it has a high and low setting on each lamp. They get pretty warm, so they should be able to keep your painted area at a decent temp, assuming it's not like 20 below in your shop. If you can keep your shop in the 40s or 50s, it would make painting a much simpler task. If not, paint a small area that the light can keep warm, them move on from there. It will take longer, but it beats waiting until it's warm enough to paint without it.

I would definitely try to heat the metal up to about 65 degrees or higher first. That way the paint that's touching the metal won't be soft for weeks while the top cures. If you can keep the metal and the top painted surface at a similar temp (say within 10 degrees of each other), it will cure pretty evenly all the way through.

It sounds harder than it really is. If you've got a small space heater, use it to heat up the frame, then move it while you paint. After you're done painting, put the heater behind the frame, but not so close to cause the paint to heat up too high, and put the shop light on the other side of the frame so the surfaces can maintain an even temp.
Thats what I am thinking of getting. But with degrees sub 25 for over 10 days now, the frame is ice cold. I am now trying to figure out how to warm up the metal and the air haha. Not sure if this will be possible.

In the meantime, I am prepping the tear down of brake lines and wiring.
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:32 PM   #90
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

I'd suggest that if you are set on painting the frame in this weather, take it somewhere else that is a heated garage.
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:30 PM   #91
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

I have at times built an enclosure around the area to be painted to trap the heated air, large pieces of cardboard ect, plus i also heat the paint cans too (very carefully) to get the paint up to temp too.

O have also found that altho expensive self etching primer from an auto paint store is some super good primer..
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:59 PM   #92
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

If you can build up, and retain, heat that well - looks like next Wed. may be more favorable to you. 40+
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:59 AM   #93
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

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I have at times built an enclosure around the area to be painted to trap the heated air, large pieces of cardboard ect, plus i also heat the paint cans too (very carefully) to get the paint up to temp too.
This is very good advice.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:38 AM   #94
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

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Originally Posted by swamp rat View Post
I have at times built an enclosure around the area to be painted to trap the heated air, large pieces of cardboard ect, plus i also heat the paint cans too (very carefully) to get the paint up to temp too.

O have also found that altho expensive self etching primer from an auto paint store is some super good primer..
I was thinking about this same thing. Building up some sort of enclosure around the frame or a section to be able to lay paint. Only problem I see is getting the frame temp up, still experimenting with different options.

I think a bigger heater is in order, like a torpedo/salamander kind.

Quote:
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If you can build up, and retain, heat that well - looks like next Wed. may be more favorable to you. 40+
Yeah, I have been looking at the forecast for the next month. Wed would be a good day because we leave out of town TH.

Quote:
Originally Posted by knomadd View Post
This is very good advice.
I agree
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:40 AM   #95
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

Also, how do I "rough" up the bare metal in preparation for primer? Sandpaper? Scotch Brite?

I am assuming I cannot leave the metal smooth like it sits now. Or can I?
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:58 AM   #96
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

From what it looks like, it seems like the wire wheel should be abrasive enough to provide a good enough surface for priming. Have you considered powder coating it?(I didnt read through pages 2-3)
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:02 PM   #97
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

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From what it looks like, it seems like the wire wheel should be abrasive enough to provide a good enough surface for priming. Have you considered powder coating it?(I didnt read through pages 2-3)
Thanks for the input Nibs. Thats what makes our forum great.

Absolutely, but for this particular project I will be leaving the cab on, so pc is not an option. Also, with the funds available and seeing it will be a dd, I am ok with primer and paint.

Also, the metal is extremely smooth, I am concerned the wire wheel has polished the metal as the pic above shows. So should I scuff it up?
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:22 PM   #98
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

Honestly, I think you'd be okay to use a self-etching primer, followed by the primer you want to use. The wire brush leaves marks on the metal, like sand scratches, so it should be fine. If the metal were really "polished" like a billet part, then you'd want to scuff it. You can use a red scotch-brite pad, or some sand paper... but that's more work. Use anything from 80-220 grit.

The self-etching primer is supposed to help make that mechanical bond between the bare metal and the next paint/primer surface, so as long as the metal has a little bite to it, you should be good.

Another suggestion for warming your paint would be to put it in the house until you're ready to use it.
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:13 PM   #99
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

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Honestly, I think you'd be okay to use a self-etching primer, followed by the primer you want to use. The wire brush leaves marks on the metal, like sand scratches, so it should be fine. If the metal were really "polished" like a billet part, then you'd want to scuff it. You can use a red scotch-brite pad, or some sand paper... but that's more work. Use anything from 80-220 grit.

The self-etching primer is supposed to help make that mechanical bond between the bare metal and the next paint/primer surface, so as long as the metal has a little bite to it, you should be good.

Another suggestion for warming your paint would be to put it in the house until you're ready to use it.
Could you send me a link for whatever etching primer you like? Is it paintable or come in a spray can? Seeing as I don't have a spray gun.
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:39 PM   #100
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Re: For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

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Thanks for the input Nibs. Thats what makes our forum great.

Absolutely, but for this particular project I will be leaving the cab on, so pc is not an option. Also, with the funds available and seeing it will be a dd, I am ok with primer and paint.

Also, the metal is extremely smooth, I am concerned the wire wheel has polished the metal as the pic above shows. So should I scuff it up?

I hear ya on the cab not coming off... Thats how I went about on my build as well. However I used a chassis specific paint that pretty much sticks to anything. Like POR15.

The metal being smooth, to the eye yes. However that wire wheel has done what it needs to, but if you are concerned about it you can always use the other methods. ie. scotch brite, sand paper, etc
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