Manual paddle valve routing

[w00dst0ck]

Trying to finish up the '65, running Dloe's valves. Unsure where to mount them, but I'm more curious as to how everyone is running/routing all the lines inside their cabs to their valves. Just looking to get some cool ideas.

[catch2otwo]

Also interested in this. Also how is everyone hitting the same ride height everytime? Not too fond of running gauges in my unmolested dash.

[w00dst0ck]

Originally Posted by catch2otwo

Also interested in this. Also how is everyone hitting the same ride height everytime? Not too fond of running gauges in my unmolested dash.

Probably by gauge/feel.

I want to run 2 gauges, but I'm in the same situation. I'm going to be running NVU 1967 series gauges and any other gauges I put in the dash will look really bad in comparison, so I'm trying to figure out a good mounting location that can be hidden when not in use.

I think I will probably do copper lines with compression fittings inside the cab, then to PTC 3/8 line outside, but still curious as to how people are routing them inside the cab (ie, grommet, bulkheads etc).

[kamikazekyle05]

Why not route them up where the gas line exits through the cab floor. Thats what i plan on doing

[w00dst0ck]

That's a pretty small hole, and it's behind the seat... Would probably work if you want to mount switches on the side of the seat though. Or unless you want a hideous box laying in your seat.

[NEWFISHER]

On my 65 I ran them through the drivers side frame and up through the o.e. clutch pedal rod hole wrapped in a 3/4 rubber hose. Then attached the hose to the inner firewall and ran it just above the sterring column where it exits the firewall. Hidden by the firewall mat, you couldnt see them and was able to slide the lines through the hose with some dry silicone spray when I needed to change one. I also ran a dual paddle dual gauge board from Borris and mounted it to the left of the column just under the dash lip. With the door closed you couldnt see it and it was in a comfortable spot.
I have found that making all the air lines the same length helps when airing up and keeping them consistant. On the shorter runs i loop the extra up and zip tie them to themselves hidden out of sight.

[w00dst0ck]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

On my 65 I ran them through the drivers side frame and up through the o.e. clutch pedal rod hole wrapped in a 3/4 rubber hose. Then attached the hose to the inner firewall and ran it just above the sterring column where it exits the firewall. Hidden by the firewall mat, you couldnt see them and was able to slide the lines through the hose with some dry silicone spray when I needed to change one. I also ran a dual paddle dual gauge board from Borris and mounted it to the left of the column just under the dash lip. With the door closed you couldnt see it and it was in a comfortable spot.
I have found that making all the air lines the same length helps when airing up and keeping them consistant. On the shorter runs i loop the extra up and zip tie them to themselves hidden out of sight.

Not a bad idea. I was going to weld up that hole now that the truck is auto.

I'm thinking of doing the interior lines in copper to avoid having to get under the dash to change them. Then have bulkheads on the floor that transition to the PTC underneath.

[SCOTI]

On my 89 CC dually, my lines are routed along the inside of the driver side frame rail until the gas tank where they then go through the rail to the outside of the frame (between the gas tank & frame rail in a rubber hose).

From there the lines go into the cab under the base of the rear seat. The floor sound deadening has a 'trench' cut out so the lines are comfortably under the carpet.

They come out from under the carpet under the drivers bucket seat. My paddle valves are the basic units Ride Tech offers & are located @ the base of the seat @ the front of the seat tracks. The left side valves are the fronts (L/R) & the right side are the rears (L/R).

Where the lines go into the valves, I have them Tee'd w/1/8" airlines routed back under the carpet to the firewall where they go into the dual needle gauges.

It's all out of sight....
You don't see any airlines.
You don't see the paddle valves.
You only see the gauges if the ashtray is open.

Where the lines go through the floor, I used rubber grommets to protect the lines as well as seal the outside elements from coming in. There's also a rubber grommet where they go through the frame. Where they travel inside of the rail, I have them wrapped in the DEI heat wrap to minimize heat transfer from the exhaust (approx. 4" away @ the closest point).

[w00dst0ck]

So I spent quite a bit of time researching, and haven't really seen a setup I like, aside from Dino's, but I didn't want them on the side of the seat.

Which gave me the perfect idea for the ashtray that will never be used. Unfortunately the spot welds didn't want to drill out, so I had to cut out the curved framing of the ashtray.

About an hour later I now have a false ashtray, running Dloe's valves. Will have enough room for an angled gauge in the corner. And best part is with the door closed it will look completely factory.

Now I'm just trying to find the perfect small/slim 90 degree hinge.

[catch2otwo]

Are you going to be running 4 valves or just two? Also where are you going to stuff the gauges? Looks good!

[w00dst0ck]

I'm running 3. Sounds weird, but I was looking to cut costs as this build has already spiraled out of control, and individually controlling each side of the rear is not needed.

I will be able to fit 1 gauge in this ashtray panel, and the tank gauge I will probably put in my gauge cluster.

[w00dst0ck]

This is what it looks like so far: Top valves have more space between them than I would like, but do to the exhaust port, I have to leave some room for either fittings, or the little mufflers that Dloe sells.

[catch2otwo]

Originally Posted by w00dst0ck

I'm running 3. Sounds weird, but I was looking to cut costs as this build has already spiraled out of control, and individually controlling each side of the rear is not needed.

I will be able to fit 1 gauge in this ashtray panel, and the tank gauge I will probably put in my gauge cluster.

If you use one valve in the rear, how do you keep the air from transferring from side to side?

[w00dst0ck]

Rear doesn't articulate nearly as much in these trucks, and with a majority of the weight in front of the rear wheels I don't think it would be as noticeable.

However, I've decided just to run 4 valves to play it safe. I'll also be re-designing the panel I made a tad.

[w00dst0ck]

Built a new box this morning to accommodate 4 valves. Flat in the center for a dual needle gauge, and angled sides for the valves. Turned out well, stitched a dozen or so small scrap 16 gauge pieces together.

[catch2otwo]

thats a great idea. very smart angling the panel. Awaiting your final product