Butt Splice Connection Question

[SeventyOne]

I was working on my 64 F100 over the weekend and needed to replace the positive battery cable because the terminal clamp broke.

Got a new generic cable from the parts store and it has a smaller accessory wire with a butt splice connector coming off the larger terminal end (just like the one i removed).

Now time for the dumb question: once i strip the end off the wire that needs power and slip in into the splice connector...do i just crimp it? Heat it? Both? Throw the whole thing away because it's a Ford?

Pic of generic cable i got with open ended splice connector:

[VetteVet]

The butt connector is for a positive feed to any circuit that needs it, in the case of our trucks it would be for a fusible link over to the right fender junction.

I think a good crimp should do.

[Stormin08]

the style is crimp and go....but you are able to install heat shrink (good idea) before making the connection.

[SeventyOne]

thank you both.

[LH Lead-Foot]

Since what is shown is a "Red" cable with a battery end, the "Butt" connector lead would go to the alternator. If you have a junction block or a fuse box, I would prefer to solder it and then shrink tube it.

Other manufacture or different years, used several fusible links at the starters B+ terminal to feed the fuse box and the rest of the system.

Too many wires are shoved into the butt connector with several tiny copper wires not inside the metal crimp part. Only more expensive butt connectors are shrink tubing with some glue inside to help seal it.

The wire gauge is measured by the cross section or the actual wire core. If a 12 AWG wire has 16 tiny copper wires in it, if you loose 4 or 5 tiny copper wires from cutting the insulation off, or a bad crimp, the wire is effectively reduced to a 14 AWG wire and the ability to carry current is reduced.

Either way, if you have open ends and no shrink tubing over it, the possibility of water getting in and causing corrosion over time, is higher. If you have already crimped it just as shown, a good electrical tape will work to help seal it. I develop the habit of finishing a taped joint with a small dab or black weather strip adhesive. It hold the tape in place without un-raveling over time & heat.

Just too picky on electrical stuff as I have seen corroded scotch-locks for trailer lights, to a guy who cut his dash with a soldering gun, then fitted an actual house light switch to turn on the headlights. It worked...I guess.

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by LH Lead-Foot

Since what is shown is a "Red" cable with a battery end, the "Butt" connector lead would go to the alternator. If you have a junction block or a fuse box, I would prefer to solder it and then shrink tube it.

Other manufacture or different years, used several fusible links at the starters B+ terminal to feed the fuse box and the rest of the system.

Too many wires are shoved into the butt connector with several tiny copper wires not inside the metal crimp part. Only more expensive butt connectors are shrink tubing with some glue inside to help seal it.

The wire gauge is measured by the cross section or the actual wire core. If a 12 AWG wire has 16 tiny copper wires in it, if you loose 4 or 5 tiny copper wires from cutting the insulation off, or a bad crimp, the wire is effectively reduced to a 14 AWG wire and the ability to carry current is reduced.

Either way, if you have open ends and no shrink tubing over it, the possibility of water getting in and causing corrosion over time, is higher. If you have already crimped it just as shown, a good electrical tape will work to help seal it. I develop the habit of finishing a taped joint with a small dab or black weather strip adhesive. It hold the tape in place without un-raveling over time & heat.

Just too picky on electrical stuff as I have seen corroded scotch-locks for trailer lights, to a guy who cut his dash with a soldering gun, then fitted an actual house light switch to turn on the headlights. It worked...I guess.

Makes sense and good info.

I haven't done anything with it yet, both ends are loose currently. Truthfully I haven't even been able to determine what the wire I had to cut powers. It goes along the firewall and into the cab. I need to spend more time looking at it but when i was working on the truck Saturday this wasn't the intended project, the rear wheel seals were. I just needed to be able to move the truck to begin work and that broken terminal was an issue.

Anyways here's a pic i found on my phone of the original setup (and you can see the cracked battery terminal)



And all her glory

[Killer Bee]

first of all, nice truck! I wouldn't kick that out of my driveway

long time professional heavy junk mechanic and I have encountered many various versions of this type of connection..

my personal opinion would be to cut it clean at the lead poured socket and run a ring terminal elsewhere..

more than once, I have found those cheap generic/aftermarket cable junctions frayed and weak with broken wire strands..

also not ideal for sanitary wire routing.. loose wires floating around there are more vulnerable while performing other fending leaning work in the engine room..

my first choice would be to terminate that connection at the solenoid B+ where the heavy cable lands..

if that's not feasible, a ring terminal on the cable lug stud at the battery can be secure if routed neatly with enough slack to not be suspended in the air..

the nut side usually works but the stud can be pushed out of the socket and ring terminal installed there so not rotate when tightening the nut

if you decide to butt it to that existing wire tail it came with, I would cut that cheap nylon butt off and replace with quality heat shrink n solder type..

that being an important distribution feed, last place you want unnecessary resistance from weak connection and corrosion..

good luck!

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

first of all, nice truck! I wouldn't kick that out of my driveway

long time professional heavy junk mechanic and I have encountered many various versions of this type of connection..

my personal opinion would be to cut it clean at the lead poured socket and run a ring terminal elsewhere..

more than once, I have found those cheap generic/aftermarket cable junctions frayed and weak with broken wire strands..

also not ideal for sanitary wire routing.. loose wires floating around there are more vulnerable while performing other fending leaning work in the engine room..

my first choice would be to terminate that connection at the solenoid B+ where the heavy cable lands..

if that's not feasible, a ring terminal on the cable lug stud at the battery can be secure if routed neatly with enough slack to not be suspended in the air..

the nut side usually works but the stud can be pushed out of the socket and ring terminal installed there so not rotate when tightening the nut

if you decide to butt it to that existing wire tail it came with, I would cut that cheap nylon butt off and replace with quality heat shrink n solder type..

that being an important distribution feed, last place you want unnecessary resistance from weak connection and corrosion..

good luck!

I like that idea of adding a ring connector to the wire with heat shrink. Theres a spot right on the fender where a bunch of other wires get a positive feed - you can kinda see it in the picture. Not the cleanest looking but thats for another day.