Attempting my first build 72 K5

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Mike I'm not sure I fully understand your problem, and I know you've had these things apart a couple of times, so I know you know what your doing... but I completely know how you feel. I fought my front axle at several spots. And it's only more frustrating when you've got your final finish on there. You're better than me, in that you powdered coated. All my axle bits are painted. Anyway, I fought the top ball joint adjusting sleeve. I couldn't get it torqued to spec without blowing it out the bottom (this may be what your saying). Then when I did get to the castle nut, it ended up well below the hole for the cotter pin. I put it together and took it apart a hand full of times. The two things that were really helpful to me were:

#1) This thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=430367&page=6 (you may already be aware of this one, but his final sequence of torquing things was very helpful to me, and what I used)

#2) I rolled the axle upside down. For some reason (probably gravity ), it seemed easier to get the ball joint to bite in the taper, and the angles seemed easier to work with on the jack stands. I don't really see why it would make a difference but it did for us.

...none of this may help you at all...but at the very least, just know I feel your frustration...and your post allowed me to instantly re-live it. And you'll get it. Your will is stronger than the truck's. It has to be.

Edit: Corrected the link...the first showed the sequence, but his build thread has more info.

Hey Brad, thanks a lot for sharing this. The same issue you had is the exact same for me. The spanner nut wants to push through past the threads in the housing.

Is post #144 in the thread the one you are talking about in reference to the sequence? I haven't tried this yet, but I think I'll give it a shot tomorrow after work.

Fortunately, the powder coat holds up well and I've managed to not chip it with all of the attempts I've made at it.

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Hey Brad, thanks a lot for sharing this. The same issue you had is the exact same for me. The spanner nut wants to push through past the threads in the housing.

Is post #144 in the thread the one you are talking about in reference to the sequence? I haven't tried this yet, but I think I'll give it a shot tomorrow after work.

Yep. That's the one. Good luck.

[sockalaminski]

I just got caught up on your build. Man am I jealous of all that solid sheet metal. I know I've said it before, but you're doing a great job on the build, but 3 weeks since an update? I hope you're just that damn busy and not stalled on the Blazer.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by sockalaminski

I just got caught up on your build. Man am I jealous of all that solid sheet metal. I know I've said it before, but you're doing a great job on the build, but 3 weeks since an update? I hope you're just that damn busy and not stalled on the Blazer.

Thanks a lot. Appreciate the compliments

I have been very busy (both work and working on the truck) I'm waiting to finish a couple of things before I do a big update. Hopefully, I wont be doing this weekend

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

It's been a while since I've had any worthy update, but I believe I hit a milestone today.

I have a ROLLING CHASSIS!

Earlier in my build thread I had issues with the Willwod calipers rubbing against the rim. I finally found a solution but it wasn't easy to figure out. I'll get to this in just a moment, but let me recap what I've been doing the last 4 weeks.

So I had the front axle ready to go until I broke off one of the bolts that holds the dust shield to the steering knuckle (twice) Yeah, that right I managed to do it two times in a row..

The first time the bolt was really stuck in there so I had to grind some of the metal off and then drill it out. I put a heli coil in as a replacement.. Then I went to assemble the wheel hub and steering knuckle for the 37th time.. btw - I found how do seat the spanner nut and ball joint studs right the first time.

I decided to read through the service manual very thoroughly this time around and in the fine print underneath the standard instructions it says

1. place the steering knuckle studs inside the C clamp.
2. Tighten the top king nut snug enough to keep the stud and steering knuckle from moving.. not torqued to spec, but just snug enough to keep the knuckle from moving side to side..
3. Then torque the bottom to spec 70 lbs
4. torque the spanner to spec 50 lbs
5. torque the upper to spec 100 lbs

Works like a charm. You will notice the steering knuckle starts to losing as you tighten the upper ball joint nut, giving it that smooth free flow with just a little bit of drag.

So after I broke the 2nd bolt off the dust shield / knuckle, this time I welded a washer to make the surface flush again because last time I grinded it down after the first time. I then used a washer on the back side and two washer on the front and made the new thread size bigger and this time it worked.

So after spending the last 2 weekends dealing with that I finally was able to make some progress.

Remember the Wilwood Calipers that where rubber the inside of the wheel? I found a solution and it works.

1. I used a .250 (1/4") spacer.



5. Mounted the rims and had enough clearance

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Heres a couple pics of the axle . I added a set of Baer crossed drilled rotors

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I pulled a all nighter yesterday and installed the fuel & brake lines, leaf springs, shocks, stabilizer, steering rod, tie rods, front diff skid guard and now I can say I have a rolling chassis. I've been waiting for this day a long time.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

some more pics

[IronCanine]

Fantastic Mike...great progress, great job! Worthy foundation for that spotless tub. Way to fight through the bumps and snags.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Fantastic Mike...great progress, great job! Worthy foundation for that spotless tub. Way to fight through the bumps and snags.

Thanks, Brad that means a lot. I cant wait to drop the engine and trans to see see what it looks like.

Hopefully it's more down hill from here!

[tjsblazer]

Looks great. A few questions.
What Absorbers are you using and what Steering stabilizer? Looks like the body of it clears the front springs.
On your Rear brake lines. The brass union between the 2 rear lines and the single hose, did you clean up your original or buy a new one?
Why did you install the bolts on the top of the Engine cross member from the bottom up with the nuts on the top of the frame?

I might be asking you some more questions about when you did your ball joints. I'm going to be tackling my front axle in 2 weeks and I'm not sure I totally understand the proper way yet.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Looks great. A few questions.
What Absorbers are you using and what Steering stabilizer? Looks like the body of it clears the front springs.
On your Rear brake lines. The brass union between the 2 rear lines and the single hose, did you clean up your original or buy a new one?
Why did you install the bolts on the top of the Engine cross member from the bottom up with the nuts on the top of the frame?

I might be asking you some more questions about when you did your ball joints. I'm going to be tackling my front axle in 2 weeks and I'm not sure I totally understand the proper way yet.

Thanks, TJ
I'm using Skyjacker Monotube shocks and stabilizer. They are the stock stock height shock absorbers. You have to install the stabilizer first before you install the steering rod or else there is not enough room for it squeeze through.

The reason I installed the bolts on the top of the Engine cross member from the the bottom up is because I looked backed through my pictures when I tore it down and that's how they where. I'm not sure if that is stock or not. I do know the OE replaced the motor at one point so he might have installed them that way.

I cleaned up my original brass union.. When I took it apart, it had a bracket that sits inside one of the differential cover bolts so that's why I kept it just to make sure everything when back together. The lines came from inline tube and i had to fight with them a little bit to make em fit.

The ball joint sequence is like this:
1. Slide the upper and lower stud inside the C-Clamp with the spanner flush at the top.
2. Next step is to tighten the upper king nut so it is snug fit.. Just enough so that the knuckle doesn't turn when tightening the lower.
3. Tighten the lower nut to 7o ft lbs
4. Take off the upper king nut
5. Tighten the spanner to 50 ft lbs.
6. Tighten the upper king nut to 100 ft lbs.. If the hole is not visible enough to slide the cotter pin keep tightening the upper until you have enough room to slide the cotter pin through.

Hope that helps. let me know if you have any questions..

[jaros44sr]

Beautiful work and attention to detail, well done. Glad ya got past your problems. Will be a great truck when done...thanks for sharing and taking the time to post up

[mx289]

Looks amazing !

Mike as said before,your attention to detail is awesome.

Congrats on hitting this milestone.

[sockalaminski]

The rolling chassis is a hell of a milestone and it looks great. If you think you're jazzed now, wait till the engine, tranny and transfer case are in. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to the next update.

[1972 Jimmy]

Wow! Chassis really looks good! Great project you got there!

[DeadheadNM]

Looking fantastic!! Strong work. I will have a beer to celebrate on your behalf

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thank you all. I really appreciate all the complements. It certainly helps keep me motivated.

TJ - I forgot to mention one little issue with the rear shocks. The bottom steel sleeve is about 1/8" or less of inch to long to fit inside the rear axle where the shock mounts too.

It's a simple fix. All I did was shave off just enough of the steel sleeve..Check out the pics below

[tp85]

nice rolling chassis...this is when the fun really starts.

where did you buy your fuel lines?
and, for the brake lines, what were the problems with inline tube?

i'm about the buy all new lines or bend lines myself...just trying to decide which route is best.
tom

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tp85

nice rolling chassis...this is when the fun really starts.

where did you buy your fuel lines?
and, for the brake lines, what were the problems with inline tube?

i'm about the buy all new lines or bend lines myself...just trying to decide which route is best.
tom

I bought the brake and fuel lines from Inline Tube. They're just a PIA to get them correctly line up, but they will. just take a little persuasion.

Currently, the only problem I see is the rear of the brake like does not line up with the bracket that extends out of the frame that connects the brake hose to the brake line.
I'm going to mess it later tonight to see if I can make any adjustments to so it lines up straight enough to go through the hole without having to force it.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I bought a used tank from 1rippen solely for the purpose of the using the filler neck. I then got a new steel tank and the Radiator shop I use lined in and swapped the neck for me. I painted it GM OEM gunmetal Gray..

[DeadheadNM]

That was an excellent way to go - tank looks great.

[IronCanine]

Tank turned out fantastic Mike...it'll pair well with that immaculate frame.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks, Pete and Brad.. Glad I finally came to a resolution with the tank.. Lets hope it actually fits

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I bought a used tank from 1rippen solely for the purpose of the using the filler neck. I then got a new steel tank and the Radiator shop I use lined in and swapped the neck for me. I painted it GM OEM gunmetal Gray..

The new tank looks great. What was the finish on it before you painted it?