What to pull from donor 96 for k30 swap

[obijuan]

I am not sure why I didnt think to look here for diesel swaps. This is good stuff here.

I do however have a few questions. This is my first swap but I have been here before with another k30 and another 12 valve both running and driving. Had to sell so I didnt get either truck apart.


Here I am again ready to swap.

I bought a 96 running and driving. A couple days later I sold the rolling body. Now I really need to get this thing out but I dont want to forget anything useful but I am also trying to not cut anything to make it an easy swap back to 12 valve for the buyer of the truck. I will not be using the auto trans, but I will be swapping in an nv4500. I have the rest of the driveline figured out.

The 96 is a 12 valve auto 2wd extended cab.

I have plans to take the 12 valve as an assembly with all accessories and throttle linkage. Radiator, charge air cooler, condenser and all tubing to connect. Is there anything off the body or firewall that is required for a swap into another truck?

Thanks for the help.
This is the k30 that will receive the 12 valve.

[Dieselwrencher]

I can't think of anything you might want off the firewall except for maybe the hydraboost but your K30 probably has that already. You could remove the grid heater solenoids from the LH inner fender. The PCM controls the Alt and AC on the dodge. You could go through the work to retain that, but is pretty pointless IMO. A Ford external regulator will get you set up on the charging. For the AC you'll use the GM controls any how. For grid heaters you can use a timer relay so another thing the dodge PCM won't really be a benefit for. Besides, the next owner will need all the wiring and PCM to make that dodge a runner again. They'll also need the TPS off your throttle bracket. But you might keep that if you ever want to do a newer electronic type of cruise control. The only part of the dodge harness you might want to keep would be the connector for the fuel shut off solenoid and maybe the battery cables to the starter and alternator if they are any good. I usually just build new. The used ones are nearly trashed up here. But if yours are usable, it might save you some coin.

[obijuan]

thanks for the tips. I did a bit more research on some points you made.
Whats the reliability of the voltage regulators? Whole idea of this truck is to be simple and minimalist reliable. not even a vacuum line.

[Dieselwrencher]

I've had way better luck with the ford external regs than the dodge ones. My Dad's 91 F350 had a 7.3 in it and had an external reg from the factory. When I put the 12v in his truck, I reused his regulator, and I'm pretty sure it was a factory part. The 12v has been there for 10 years and 140k now. I've had the wife's excursion on the road for 4 years and never had a problem with the regulator. Plus, any parts store will stock these. I used to put dodge ones on and you'd be lucky to get a month out of one of those before the head lights and running lights were pulsating. No more of those.

If you plan to run no vacuum line, plug your vacuum pump. When I first started driving my 72 I had nothing hooked on the pump. Just had an open hose on it stuffed up in the fender. I soon found out that leaving it open made it push oil out of the breather. Nothing else add a vacuum can and hook the pump to it. I have driven my 72 for 8k miles with no ill results having the vac pump plugged so far.

[obijuan]

new question:

What will I need to do to run the repop LMC tach with the 12 valve? When I search "lmc tach" it brings up everything that has each individual term but even in quotes it does not search for the phrase. How do I make a v8 tach work in my cucv with this motor?

this one would be cool if they made 7k springs.
http://www.gmsports.com/content/new-...and-gmc-trucks

[lowrollin70gmc]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I've had way better luck with the ford external regs than the dodge ones. My Dad's 91 F350 had a 7.3 in it and had an external reg from the factory....

I used to put dodge ones on and you'd be lucky to get a month out of one of those before the head lights and running lights were pulsating. No more of those.

If you plan to run no vacuum line, plug your vacuum pump.

I agree with Dieselwrencher's points. My K20 blew up it's battery last month using my second (or third) dodge external regulator. It was idling in my yard as i opened the gate and I heard a pop. Opened the hood and it had blown the site glass out of the battery. I jumped in to shut it down and it was charging at 18 volts at idle! The previous time it went out I fried both headlights and I've had constant pulsing problems. I planned on swapping to a GM alternator, but now I'll look into the F250 regulator.

I have also been running with my vacuum pump plugged for 5ish years, with no ill effects.

As far as tach, you may want to contact dakota digital, as they have optical sensor based techs and/or tach conversion boxes for magnetic pickups to alter the signal to the 4 pulse/revolution that a V8 tach is looking for.

[Dieselwrencher]

If that LMC tach is needing to see 4 pulses per revolution, the easiest and cheapest way is to have a machine shop mill 2 more grooves in your balancer so there is a notch every 90*. Use the stock dodge pick up sensor. You'll have to solder a 1k ohm resistor in between the pos and neg wires to use this pick up. This is my plan for my 72. I need to get around to actually doing it on mine.