Need Help...Master Cylinder Bracket?

[4DSEVEN]

Can someone please explain what this bracket does and how to assemble. I have taken the original off long ago and of course threw everything away not thinking...

I am now at that point and have tried the search to try and figure out what I need and how the brake assembly actually works etc.

Please help with pictures if possible.



As posted on Brothers (Quote)
Detailed Description

This bracket allows 1947-55.1 truck owners to easily convert from the old style single reservoir master to an updated dual reservoir master cylinder. This popular conversion makes your old truck safer to drive and gives you the option of non-power when converting to disc brakes.

This still doesn't tell me anything??

I need to buy all new parts but don't know where to start or from who.

[OrrieG]

Looks like the L bracket mounts on the frame with the big hole facing forward, should use the stock mounting holes. The MC mounts behind. The rod end attachs to the brake pedal with the rounded end seated in the master cylinder plunger. The other threaded rod looks like it is used if the bracket is mounted closer to the pedal, maybe different years have different locations? I'm not familar enough with stock AD pedal to know if the rod end works or if this is for an aftermarket pedal.

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by 4DSEVEN

I have taken the original off long ago and of course threw everything away not thinking...

Are you saying you tossed the original master cylinder or you tossed the original bracket?

You do need the original bracket to use that conversion bracket. It bolts on to the original bracket in place of the original master cylinder.

OrrieG's description of how it mounts is the way mine is mounted.

I'm using the stock pedal and linkage to work a dual master from a 70's Chevelle.

[4DSEVEN]

Oh, ok thanks for the response guys.

I did toss the entire master cylinder and bracket out as I thought I had a donor replacement but only realize now that a) I still needed the bracket and b) that donor brake assembly is not the right one.

I can pull that bracket off another frame that I have access to and now have a better idea of the pictured bracket.

Now I'm not sure I even kept the pedal (yeah I know...) not one of my proudest moments but I am sure learning alot along the way.

Any recommendations on a replacement pedal?

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by 4DSEVEN

Oh, ok thanks for the response guys.

I did toss the entire master cylinder and bracket out as I thought I had a donor replacement but only realize now that a) I still needed the bracket and b) that donor brake assembly is not the right one.

I can pull that bracket off another frame that I have access to and now have a better idea of the pictured bracket.

Now I'm not sure I even kept the pedal (yeah I know...) not one of my proudest moments but I am sure learning alot along the way.

Any recommendations on a replacement pedal?

We sell the same adaptor. Here is a pic of the frame mount. We sell these dirt cheap. Like $12.00 each. The kit you bought will work fine and will bolt up to your steering arm. If you can get the original pedal (twoPiece) I would use that. We do sell One piece pedals for them

[4DSEVEN]

Ok well I took the bracket from a donor frame, cleaned it up and here we are.


Now I may have some clearance problems and was thinking of fabbing something similar to another forum members set up (hope you don't mind me using your pic) I am thinking of doing the same but to allow for clearance of the booster.


I would like to cut out the same. Am I on the right track here?



I may have issues with the transmission crossmember too. Grrrr.

And lastly where can I find a brake pedal arm?

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by 4DSEVEN

I may have issues with the transmission crossmember too. Grrrr.

And lastly where can I find a brake pedal arm?

And/or the floor.

I'd move the cylinder much closer to the frame in order to get the rod from the pedal to line up. That rod sticking out of the bracket is where the pedal pivots. Since you are running an automatic you don't need the clutch pedal, which also pivots on that same rod. You may need to make a spacer of some sort to keep the brake pedal pivot in the right place.

The advantage of modifying the stock bracket to suit is that you can choose the best location for the cylinder and booster. Remember as you do so that there is a great deal of force on that bracket and you want to build it strong. The one in your picture only has one gusset and makes me nervous.

If you are building your own bracket consider moving the booster and master, but not the pivot, back and down to get the booster behind the crossmember and under the floor. You'll need to lengthen the rod but that should not be a big deal. Just make it strong.

If you were in my neighborhood I'd tell you to drop by and dig through my junk pile, I'm sure there is more than one brake pedal (both pieces) there. I'm terrible about shipping so I'm no help unless you can come here. I'm sure a little looking will turn up someone closer to you that has a spare.

[mbgmike]

You will have trouble with the Trans X member. You will want to keep the mc as far forward as you can cause it will require a hole in the floor to fill the unit. Too far back will just make it harder. Only other way is to use a bottle with a 180 degree nozzle. Thats a real pain to. CPP makes a rear X member to help the problem with the booster I believe. We don't make them.

We sell these for $75.00

[4DSEVEN]

Originally Posted by mbgmike

You will have trouble with the Trans X member. You will want to keep the mc as far forward as you can cause it will require a hole in the floor to fill the unit. Too far back will just make it harder. Only other way is to use a bottle with a 180 degree nozzle. Thats a real pain to. CPP makes a rear X member to help the problem with the booster I believe. We don't make them.

We sell these for $75.00

mbgmike is that what I can use in replacement of that bracket? And if so do you ship to Canada?

Please tell me what I need. I'm listening.

If you would prefer me to call you I can do that too.

[mr48chev]

4Dseven, you might think about mounting the mc/booster behind the crossmember so that it is centered on the pushrod from the pedal an running a long and heavy duty pushrod.

Years ago I built my own bracket to mount a 68 C-10 mc on my 48 that bolted to the stock bracket on the frame.

Filling the mc under the truck isn't fun but with a squeeze bottle and hose it isn't that hard.

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Filling the mc under the truck isn't fun but with a squeeze bottle and hose it isn't that hard.

I used a funnel with a long tube bent just right. I eventually cut a new hole in the floor in the right place and made a cover for it.

[OrrieG]

Here is my fabricated filler door on my TF. The piano hinge cost $6 and the thumbturn screw and capture nut a couple of dollars. Beats the $40 the aftermarket places want.

[4DSEVEN]

Thanks for all the great suggestions everyone!

I think I am going to start with picking up the pedal assembly and new bracket and see what kind of room I have. It may be just enough to get everything in front of the crossmember.

If that doesn't pan out I will likely run with the idea of putting the booster further back and running a beefier rod.

Mike I have left you a message at your shop.

Thanks for the pic OrrieG I may end up going with your idea too.

[4DSEVEN]

just wanted to say a BIG THANKS to MBGMIKE

I received the brake pedal and mount and am very pleased with the quality and service.

Thanks again Mike.