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Old 10-01-2017, 11:10 PM   #1
sprint_9
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Door alignment

Ive read through a bunch of threads and nothing really like what I have going on popped up, so Im hoping I can get first hand help.

Currently Im mocking up my cab and front clip before I have everything blasted and get it into primer, kind of a trial run to see how many major issues I have.

The drivers side has gone together ok, not perfect by any means but I can live with it. The passenger side on the other hand is a different story. I can get a fairly even gap where I want it, and where its noticeable the gap is even so it looks ok. My problem is alignment in and out in relation to the cab and fender. I can get one to look good but not both. If I pull the top hinge of the door out, actually shimmed out as well, I can get a good alignment at the fender and cowl where it meets the door, but the very top of the door is out way to far, like a 1/2 inch too far and the back top half of the door is also out way to far, like even with the outer lip of the drip rail. If I push the door in at the hinge I can get the door to look pretty good, except for at the front where it meets the fender and cowl, Im in about a 1/2 inch.

Im really at a loss, Ive rebuilt my factory hinges, I have (what I think are undamaged) factory doors, my cowl and fender are maxxed on adjustment, and its not even close. The alignment from the factory was similar so I dont have much to work with Im afraid, but its not going to fly how it is.

As of right now my next step is to try again after some time off from it, take a step back and regroup. If that doesnt work I had thought about trying new hinges but I dont see how that will fix it. Its like the overall shape of the door is not bent right, maybe the door can be tweaked some, that or maybe I need a different door. If you have any ideas or thoughts please post up.
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Old 10-02-2017, 09:34 PM   #2
MARTINSR
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Re: Door alignment

Can you post some photos, it sounds odd for sure. It sounds as if something is bent, the cowl where the hinges are, or the door.

Tell me:

1. Did you replace this door then?

2. Was the old one damaged or just rusty or something?

3. Did you replace anything on the cowl or pillar or rocker?

Brian
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Old 10-02-2017, 09:49 PM   #3
sprint_9
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Re: Door alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Can you post some photos, it sounds odd for sure. It sounds as if something is bent, the cowl where the hinges are, or the door.

Tell me:

1. Did you replace this door then?

2. Was the old one damaged or just rusty or something?

3. Did you replace anything on the cowl or pillar or rocker?

Brian
I was just getting ready to post some pics, hopefully they help show what Im trying to explain.

1. Factory door

3. Outer cab floor, floor supports, and rocker replaced. Where I am having issues was solid and braced so I dont think that was an issue, but anything is possible I guess.
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Old 10-03-2017, 12:30 AM   #4
MARTINSR
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Re: Door alignment

The door needs to go UP, that will very possibly solve your problems. The back may be too high when you raise it as the back isn't nearly as low as the front is. But sometimes when you are fitting panels it's that "good enough dance" sometimes we have to take. Instead of having one area perfect and another area really bad, you adjust the perfect area so-so and then you get the really bad area so-so which is a lot better don't you think?


But really, the door shape goes in, that line right at the cowl will come "out" if you raise it, understand? But all the way up to the roof it's leaning in, so going up will bring that whole area "out." Picture raising a triangle, if you had it in a triangle hole a little bigger when you raise it the gap on the sides would tighten right?

The rear looks like it's a tiny bit down, to it may end up too high, but that's a lot better than what you have.

Now, that is with the photos you posted, I would really like to see also are the door gaps with the photo taken from the side of the truck looking at that door. If that gap is tight at the bottom in the rear you maybe can lift the door up going as high as you need then drop the back to correct that rear being too high after raising it. Then you move the fender forward to enlarge the gap if you made it to small dropping the back.

I think you can do this, the cab could possibly be out of whack being the rocker was replaced or something like that, but I am thinking you can get it good.

Post some more photos showing the gaps stand back and get the whole door.

Brian
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Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"
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Old 10-03-2017, 12:37 AM   #5
MARTINSR
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Re: Door alignment

When you raise it, it goes "out".

Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup
Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:36 PM   #6
sprint_9
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Re: Door alignment

Thanks for the help Brian, I raised the door and that did indeed help. My door to fender is pretty good now, I may do a little twisting at the back of the door (bottom out, and top in) and some more adjusting to get the back to sit in a little bit at the top body line, but over all its not too bad considering how it fit to begin with.

My gap on the windshield pillar is pretty tight at the top corner, but as long as it doesnt rub Im good with that. I think thats kind of a common problem area anyhow for these trucks and I dont really notice it.
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Old 10-03-2017, 10:57 PM   #7
MARTINSR
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Re: Door alignment

Yeah, the other gaps look pretty good and it is tight up there at the top front corner. So there isn't a whole lot you can do moving it around that way, maybe now move the bottom front out a bit and move the fender out to match it? That will move in the top rear.

You also want to pay attention to the gaps where the rubber meets on the inside as you don't want one area too tight. Once you put the rubber in you can be surprised BIG TIME especially with the reproduction rubber, it often seems to be too hard. It won't compress enough and so that gap needs to be watched.

Brian
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1948 Chevy pickup
Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"
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