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Old 09-26-2018, 06:12 PM   #1
Chris_oz
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1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

Hi all,

I have decided to start a thread where I can ask questions as I move along with the repair and restoration on my C20.
I don’t plan on doing a frame off restoration, it does not require it, nor do I have the time & money to do it right.
It is going to be a driver, but I intend to get all options working, like my other cars and tidy it to a neat a comfortable state.

A brief history of the vehicle.
The original hand written quote from the dealer is dated Tuesday, 18th Nov 1969, deposit of $1000 paid.
The build sheet and window sheet, are dated Thursday, 21st November.
Final buyer contract is dated Friday, 4th Dec 1969.
The first Registration papers, paid for 17th Dec 69, these were in the glove box, still in the DMV envelope.

It had a camper fitted late in 1971, ordered from ANZA Camper Sales, invoice dated 14th August 1971.
He shopped local, the Chevrolet dealership being only 5 miles from where he lived, it is still in the same location today.

The car was retitled in July 2017, when sold at a deceased estate clearing, it still had the camper on it according to the importer I bought it off.

So far I am more than happy with the vehicle, it is nice thing to drive, door seals are good, cab is rattle free, it appears to have been well looked after.

I am looking forward to getting it passed for rego and begin the repairs.
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:14 PM   #2
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

I would really like to get a full breakdown on the build sheet codes, there are some that are obvious, but several that I have no idea what they mean.

There is no mention of Cruise Control on the SPID, or the order sheet, but the Build sheet has CC in the box for Speedo Cables, does this mean Cruise Control?
Was Cruise Control part of another option package?
The truck has Cruise Control fitted in the engine bay when I got it, but no sign of the switch inside, the harness was freshly cut at the firewall.
The speedo cables were still hooked up and the dash speedo working as it should.

Is the Cruise control worth fixing? Is it reliable or can it be made to be worth having?
If they can be made reliable, I would like to get it working.

Photo’s are of the parts I have removed for now, as the vacuum hoses were all just laying loose on the steering column, making the engine bay a mess.
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:21 PM   #3
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

You probably had a dealer installed (rather than a factory installed) cruise control system, which wasn't uncommon at the time.

The switch/control for it would have been mounted under the dash rather than through it...and might been unbolted and removed, which is why it is missing.

Some of the other guys who have cruise control can probably send you a quick pic of what this would have typically looked like.

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Old 09-26-2018, 06:25 PM   #4
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

My Jimmy had cruise control as well. It didn't show up on the SPID and I don't have any of the other documentation that came with it. I would assume it was dealer installed, but as noted that is just an ASS-umption. :-)

The control was a single red button on the end of the turn signal switch in my truck. I replaced it with a plain one from a 70's Camaro years ago as it was broken and electrical taped by my dad before I got the truck.

You have a beautiful truck with lots of options it seems. I would be proud to own that. I had a 70 C2500 GMC Sierra Grande with a big block that I sold 15 years ago and wish I had it back. I HIGHLY recommend your first modification being disc brakes. I hauled my parts truck home with mine and it's drums and the fools around me nearly caused the destruction of both on the short drive. My current 69 short step is so much more fun to drive now that it stops and stops HARD.
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:57 PM   #5
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

Hi again,

Disc brakes are on top of the list, up there with getting the A/C working for summer.
I am still in 2 minds on which way to go, I like the conversion stubs available, that allow the use of all C20 ball joints and tie rods, but C10 hubs, brakes and 5 lug hubs.

I like the look of the stock tyres and rims, but choice on 9.5 r 16.5" is VERY VERY limited out here.
Decent looking (non off road style) 8 lug wheels are like hens teeth, they are all the newer 20" spokes and bling wheels, which I hate.

I would love to fit a set of rallye style, with chrome trim rings and neat centre caps, I know they were never available on these trucks, but I just like the way they look.
I also like the Torque Thrust wheels, they are "retro" looking, but available in 17" dis, which seems to suit these trucks, to my eye anyway.

So before I commit to doing a disc brake conversion, I need to get it on the road (easier if stock) and decide if I want to keep the 8 lug or go with 5 lug to allow a greater wheel choice.

The cost is also a factor, the kit is $1300 au + delivery (about $500), for fronts, then redoing the read axles, then new rims and tyres ($3000 au minimum)

I have found a later C20 disc front end local, it is listed as an 1980's front end. Complete with cross member, springs etc.
I have no idea if any of it would be of any use, what parts cross over, It would be the easiest way to do it if it can be made to work, but I just have no idea on where to start to look for compatability of parts.

Chris
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Old 09-26-2018, 08:38 PM   #6
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

If you don't plan to tow a lot of weight (and even if you do) or drive a lot in the rain, save your money on the disc brake conversion. I'm a staunch believer in disc brakes, but under most conditions, drums will serve you well. If you really want disc brakes, there are companies that sell kits that retain most of the other parts, so will be less deep into your pockets.

That entire front disc brake package from a later model truck will bolt right into your truck, as far as I know. I should have done it that way, based on the fecal material I went through with missing and damaged parts on the kit I bought. Get the manual (download it here)- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016

and go through the inspection procedures to see if you need any replacement parts. Since my truck had 200k+ miles on it, I went with a kit.

As for tires, I managed to find them for my 16.5" diameter wheels, but the later model trucks have a 16" wheel which is a lot easier to find tires for. That's what I have for a spare. I bought the 16.5" jobs because I was under a time constraint. When those tires go bad, I'll be getting four more 16" wheels.
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Old 09-27-2018, 04:02 AM   #7
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

Wheel vintiques do a 16” 8 lug steel rim which accept the factory hubcaps. I run these on my c20 in 7” width. If you like big diameter steelies, Detroit steel wheels do 20” steel wheels in 8 lug now.
Also be aware that a disc brake conversion will widen your front track. This makes the front track considerably wider than the rear. Unless you go 5 lug and then I’m pretty sure cpp do a modular spindle which maintains close to your original track width.
Here’s a picture of the vintiques wheels before I got tyres.
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Old 09-27-2018, 04:15 PM   #8
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

Hi all,

The more I look at the truck, and drive it, the more I want to keep it as a C20, with 8 lug wheels and hubcaps, I like the idea of the 16" wheels, much better selection of tyres, thanks very much for the information Asu69c20.

I fitted the new centre bearing (tail-shaft support bearing) last night, all good, once I had the old one out I realize I was lucky to get home, the rubber had completely let go, the bearing itself was still spinning and in functional condition, it was just floating about on a soft rubber encased loop.

Under load it made all sorts of noises, as the U-joints I imagine were being moved further than they were used to for a long time.

I also removed the 2 extra fuel tanks, listed on the order, I imagine fitted by the dealer, they say under the bed, in front of each rear wheel, outboard of the chassis, the filler neck and cap, sitting level with the top of the tyre in front of it in the wheel arch.

They were just on 16 US gals each, being 36" long, 10" deep and 16" wide.
They were bolted up into the bed with long cup head bolts, both were a little loose and rattling around a little.

The fuel was controlled with a 4 way selector tap, which sits on the cab floor beside the driver seat.

Fuel hoses underneath looked like cooked spaghetti, crossing the frame, sitting only inches from the drive shaft. Held up with clamps, cable ties, string. Glad its all out now, much neater.

I will look at refitting one in the future, both are still clean and rust free, may be handy when towing on longer trips.
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:40 PM   #9
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

I have a 1968 longhorn.396 400 Power steering and power brake.An AC Its been one of them trucks I've looked at over the last 17 years of me owning it.I really like to Update the drive train.Do to the big blocks have always had head problems with the umbrella's By passing oil after 60,000 miles.You put in the use chevy Duramax motor with a Allison 9 speed you can take that truck every where.if i wanted 4x4 I put that in as well.Its all about enjoying what you have as for as long as you can.You have to keep asking your self.How long will the after marker parts be worth buying its there made from china.The market for most of are old parts is not looking good.I've been saying it for over 20 years unless you have a stash of old used parts on shelves.That are protected These truck have a dome coming.I'm hearing noise here in Calif.

In less then 10 years we will no longer own new car's we will lease them.If this state starts that they will control how much Gas you can use.That is the beginning of a socialist government.

The right to own any thing.

So I like this one word longevity.If you can get 250,000 500,000 miles out of your truck car and YOU can Rebuild it.Then do it
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Old 10-08-2018, 09:02 PM   #10
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

Hi all,

Progress has been slow, we are just about finished on some renovations on a little house we own, it is taking all of my time ATM.
But, I have done a few small things.

I got to clean up and mark the timing marks, pulley and check timing, it was at 14 DBTC, set it to 10.
Adjusted the idle mix and idle speed, now has 19 inch vacuum at 750 rpm, it was 16 when I started.
Much cleaner at idle, no black smoke, doesn’t fuel up.

Checked gearbox oil, check diff, oil.

The engine oil needs a change, it’s a bit dirty and at least 1” over full on the stick. Doesn’t smell like fuel, still nice and thick, so I think the PO has just topped it up too much.

I went for another quick drive yesterday, the rear brakes are locking pretty early, it’s all factory drums, dual master and booster.
I can’t see any leaks at the rear, which I know can cause early lock ups, I have not adjusted the fronts either yet, I might get a chance on the weekend to pull the front drums, clean them all up and adjust.
It pulls up straight enough, and up until the rears lock, it pulls up good.
I might need to ad a proportioning valve, I have a wildwood adjustable one on the shelf, but it has a block next to the master, which I thought was a combination prop valve, it has the switch in it.

I had been thinking long and hard on what way I wanted to go with this, if to put 5 stud C10 disc front and rear, drop it a few inches etc, but the more I look at it and drive it. The more I want to keep it stock appearance
I will need to get some 16” wheels however, maybe some of a later model. As I want to keep my hubcaps, but need to be able to buy tyres……..no one has 16.5” out here, I plan to travel in this truck, so I need to be able to buy a tyre if one dies on the road.

The only mods I am doing for now are:

• Power steering, my wife can’t drive it as it is, she is too small.
I have bought a pump and brackets, now I need a box, hoses.
Is the pitman arm the same from manual to power?
What is the best (faster ratio?) box to buy?

• 4 speed auto. But it will need to wait, as I want to do a 4L80e, built to take some towing, so funds will need to be saved for a while, it will be a $4000 job out here.

• Disc brakes on the front, I plan on using later C20 parts. Trying to find out if I can just swap spindles, ball joints and brakes/hubs, or do I need to do the A arms as well.

• New seat cover, it has black with cloth inserts, with pattern embossed in the centre section, trying to find a nice replacement. The rest of the interior is like new.

So I am getting there, once the house is done, should be finished next week, I can have a go at the truck.
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Old 10-08-2018, 09:58 PM   #11
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

I'll start with just one recommendation. If your wife has trouble steering it with a manual box, if it ever quits with a power steering setup, she'll be in even deeper trouble than you may like. I'd recommend looking for some steering components with a shorter Pittman and idler arm to reduce the force necessary, and stick with the manual steering. Or a box that is even more turns lock to lock might be easier. You'll get the mechanical advantage, but will have to make more turns of the wheel to turn. If turning it is easy, who cares, right?
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Old 10-09-2018, 09:26 AM   #12
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

-
As far as the disk brake conversion check member lolife99's thread on the subject.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

It lists suggestions for everything from 1960-'70. and basically how to do it. Just click on the link that matches the configuration you have/want. The nice thing about it is that you can check out different configurations before you decide which direction you want to go.

It also lists the differences for all of the individual components.

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Old 10-09-2018, 10:31 AM   #13
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

I don't know if this will make your decision any easier, but here's my own 1970 GMC Longhorn festooned with NOS hubcaps.

The caps are hard to find if you want the right ones, and figure $1000+ for a great quality set of GMC (Chevy more common), so most people run the 73-later that look "close enough".

I also did the front disc conversion from a '72 C2500, all stock parts, works great. I then added spacers on the rear to bring the track out a little more than an inch, though there's no reason that's needed (I had to do it to clear the center caps).
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:33 AM   #14
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.


I also removed the 2 extra fuel tanks, listed on the order, I imagine fitted by the dealer, they say under the bed, in front of each rear wheel, outboard of the chassis, the filler neck and cap, sitting level with the top of the tyre in front of it in the wheel arch.

They were just on 16 US gals each, being 36" long, 10" deep and 16" wide.
They were bolted up into the bed with long cup head bolts, both were a little loose and rattling around a little.

The fuel was controlled with a 4 way selector tap, which sits on the cab floor beside the driver seat.

Fuel hoses underneath looked like cooked spaghetti, crossing the frame, sitting only inches from the drive shaft. Held up with clamps, cable ties, string. Glad its all out now, much neater.

I will look at refitting one in the future, both are still clean and rust free, may be handy when towing on longer trips.


i have a similar set up on mine but they seem to be made of fiberglass or some kind of plastic. tried turning the knob but it seems to be frozen with age and to the element(s)
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Old 10-09-2018, 02:37 PM   #15
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by davepl View Post
I don't know if this will make your decision any easier, but here's my own 1970 GMC Longhorn festooned with NOS hubcaps.

The caps are hard to find if you want the right ones, and figure $1000+ for a great quality set of GMC (Chevy more common), so most people run the 73-later that look "close enough".

I also did the front disc conversion from a '72 C2500, all stock parts, works great. I then added spacers on the rear to bring the track out a little more than an inch, though there's no reason that's needed (I had to do it to clear the center caps).
I am 100% on keeping the steel wheels and caps, I have the original 1970 chev caps, that pretty nice, been there for 49 years, so they will do the job.

vintiques do 16" wheel in different width that accept the stock cap and will allow me to buy tyres anywhere.

I have found a later C20 disc front end, complete, so I might buy it and use for the swap, armed with the info in the thread listed above, just made it so much easier for me. now I know what to buy.

I will run the risk of the power steer failing, if it dies and she cant drive it, she can call a tow truck (or me) the power steer is just so much nicer for day to day driving to be without.

Seat belts and seat cover is another high on the list, I need to do the belts before registration, so they are No1 for now.

I cant wait until this house is finished.

I also went for a short cruise to a mates house in the same subdivision as I live in, the same street actually, rainy Sunday afternoon seemed like a good idea. I cant wait to get this on the road full time.
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:11 PM   #16
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

What are the current Australian rules with left hand drive? I thought that only right hand drive was legal for road use which made it difficult to import US made cars because of cost of conversion.
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:16 PM   #17
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike C View Post
What are the current Australian rules with left hand drive? I thought that only right hand drive was legal for road use which made it difficult to import US made cars because of cost of conversion.
Anything older than 30 years and under 4500kg weight can be used on all roads in Au.

You can do trucks over 4500kg, but they cant be used in a commercial purpose, just as a collector.

Cars under 30 years have another set of regulations they must comply with which generally makes it not worthwhile bringing them in unless you really want to.

about 15 years ago the rules changed, some states allowed LHD, some didn't, they are all the same now and allow it. makes it much easier.
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:30 PM   #18
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

Cruisemaster is indeed a dealer install item. Two types were available, "resume" and "non-resume" - the latter being much more common in this era of trucks. Yours appears to be a non-resume type, which makes sense. Resume cc was a later type that we're all probably more familiar with in mid-70s or newer trucks (in fact, I'm not even sure the resume type was available as an option by the end of this era of trucks). Pictured below are the two types of transducers (resume first, then non-resume (i.e. yours)) and the t/s lever for a non-resume type and an overall system diagram. They were produced starting in 68, but not certain the first year offered on GM trucks - clearly available by 1970!

Great note about the CC in the speedo cable box of the build sheet - I honestly don't know if perhaps this got checked if someone special ordered a truck and let the dealer know if they wanted cruise control installed when it showed at the dealer. Might have provided the different speedo cable config to support the dealer install(?) Does your truck's SPID have a 6 digit order # floating around on it somewhere?
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:15 AM   #19
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Re: 1970 Longhorn “build” of sorts.

Thanks for the info on the cruise. Parts had been removed before I got the truck, but I can get it all sorted.

Also spent the last 2 afternoons playing with the engine. Set the timing, check the vacuum advance etc. Had it all sorted, it has a pertronix electronic ignition, new rotor, cap, leads, plugs etc, so it runs great, however it was pretty slow.

So today I dug into the carby, setting the choke, as it was slow to come of, checked fuel filters etc.

Then I check for full throttle travel........ Not even close.
With the pedal held hard to the floor, the primary butterflys were 2/3 open, secondaries not even close to moving.
It has new secondary vacuum actuator, and all appears to be good. Just no throttle.

So I removed the rod and shortened it by almost 1" and mounted it in the top home on linkage.

Now we have opening secondaries. It goes like it is supposed to now.
It even accelerated in a mild hurry up my test hill.

Not sure what position it is supposed to be in, but it's 1000 times better than before I moved it.

I am happy. It is starting to get there, just need to sort out the locking rear brakes.
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