Wing or vent window rebuild

[Alan's Classic]

I am finally getting around to getting this together. For now it will just be the teardown. I will finish up mine and post some pics of the steps taken hopefully within a week. If you can't wait til I do that, just reverse the tear down. I'm not going to list part numbers because there are several vendors that carry the items needed.

Parts needed

Vent window rebuild kit (it comes with the rivet tool)

Window/door weatherstrip kit (it's generally cheaper to get everything together)

New vent window latch (if needed)

I will leave the tool choices up to you.

Most important is to make sure the pin that is in the glass channel that the latch pivots on is in good shape and not missing. As of right now there is not a repair kit for it.



Step 1

Remove roll pin from latch handle and remove handle and spring washer (picture above) and inspect pivot.

Step 2

Measure how far the stud sticks out from the nut. Then spread out lock washer. Notice the placement of washers. The flat part of the top washer that is like a triangle goes towards the front.





Step 3

Drill out pivet rivot



This is the placement of hardware (Pay attention to orientation make notes. Be sure you install everything right before you install the pivot rivot. If the washers are not installed correctly the window will not open right.)



Step 4

Grab the top of the window and pull it out of the track. I've been told by Tim Christian that all of the glass from 60-67 does not have a hole in it where the lever goes. 68 and up has a hole with the lever pivot pin goes thru the glass. I've removed 5 glasses and they all come out easy since the rubber is dry rotted.



Step 5

Remove rubber from channel that holds glass in.



Step 6

Remove the main vertical weatherstrip that the door glass goes up and down in.



Drill 4 rivets on the vertical rubber and remove.



Step 7

Remove the rubber that the glass seals against. Grab one end and pull out. It comes out pretty easy depending on how dry rotted it is. Nothing holds it in place except for itself. The rubber squeezes into the channel.



Step

[Alan's Classic]

EDIT: go to post 69 for the second one I did. The weatherstrips were installed in a different order. Feel free to read thru the rest of the post, just want to inform you of what worked best for me.

This a picture of the rivet tool. The short one came in my kit. I had one already that was longer and seems to work alot better. It's easier to hold on too. Getting a straight shot on the rivet is really a challenge, but can be done. I had even thought about removing the hoop from the verticle bar just to install the 4 rivets the reinstall the hoop. I have not tried that yet.





I cleaned, primed and painted one of my frames



I then taped it up to protect the paint.



I mounted the punch in the vise to back up the rivet while I used the rivot tool to flare the rivet. It is a 2 person job.







This is what I did wrong on my first one. I installed the short verticle piece first Don't do that install the rubber around the hoop first. Then install the short piece.



Done so I thought.



I thought there was a repair kit for the handle pivot. I even thought I had it. I was wrong. I have to replace the glass frame.

[bubba327]

Thanks for the pictures Alan. I just replaced both all the window regulators , rubbers and felts on my '64 in May. I found that a piece of 3/8 wide steel flat bar in the vise lengthwise was a helping hand and an anvil. I was never quite happy with the set tool. There has to be a better way.The hinge pivot rivet is maddening!! PS; you can spray undercoating inside your door frames while your window is out and your arm will fit in!!

[terd ferguson]

Thanks. Good thread.

[protrash64]

Nice work Alan, and thanks for diving in first! My vents are starting to look better the way they are....J/K.....I've had the stuff to do this for years and will be doing it this summer.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by bubba327

Thanks for the pictures Alan. I just replaced both all the window regulators , rubbers and felts on my '64 in May. I found that a piece of 3/8 wide steel flat bar in the vise lengthwise was a helping hand and an anvil. I was never quite happy with the set tool. There has to be a better way.The hinge pivot rivet is maddening!! PS; you can spray undercoating inside your door frames while your window is out and your arm will fit in!!

Thanks for the tips. I wanted to do what you said with the flat bar as an anvil, but the rivet is recessed in the hole. I thought the rivet wouldn't tighten up. Did you have any issues with that?

[daverod]

On that spring picture I think I can actually see the rust molecules.

[bubba327]

Alan -I started the rivet with the set tool, then 1 hit with a big center punch to flare it out, the finished it with 1 hit using a ball punch to tighten it up. All finished tight and recessed back in the felts, but I sure wish I had a clamp or something that held both sides and could be hit with a BFH on the anvil. Something like a blacksmith's swedge block. Maybe even a C-clamp which tightened, spreading and flattening the rivet.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by bubba327

Alan -I started the rivet with the set tool, then 1 hit with a big center punch to flare it out, the finished it with 1 hit using a ball punch to tighten it up. All finished tight and recessed back in the felts, but I sure wish I had a clamp or something that held both sides and could be hit with a BFH on the anvil. Something like a blacksmith's swedge block. Maybe even a C-clamp which tightened, spreading and flattening the rivet.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by daverod

On that spring picture I think I can actually see the rust molecules.

[Joemomma1]

Thank you!! I was trying to figure this out. I want to chrome that metal piece but could not figure it out. Thanks.

[1964C10]

Thanks for the great write up Alan!

[ol Curt]

As always, your post deserves a sticky. Great job Alan!!

[jonzcustomshop]

Great post, exactly what I just did on my 61...'cept I chopped mine down 3 inches in the process

[ChiefRocka]

Nice work Alan...Great pics !!!

[MacAttack]

THANK YOU, ALAN!

This is exactly the thread I was looking for. Joe - again, take note of the real photographs, and, go to Wal-Mart: two Fugi cameras for less than nine bucks.

Mac.

(PS - Alan, I'd give you some more points, but the system won't let me.)

[protrash64]

[QUOTE=

(PS - Alan, I'd give you some more points, but the system won't let me.) [/QUOTE]

X2....I just keep rating your threads excellent.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Lookin good Alan.... When I did mine I just used pop rivits. They also work but not factory.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Joemomma1

Thank you!! I was trying to figure this out. I want to chrome that metal piece but could not figure it out. Thanks.

Originally Posted by 1964C10

Thanks for the great write up Alan!

Originally Posted by ol Curt

As always, your post deserves a sticky. Great job Alan!!

X3

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

Great post, exactly what I just did on my 61...'cept I chopped mine down 3 inches in the process

Thanks Jon, I was wondering how yours is coming along.

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Nice work Alan...Great pics !!!

Originally Posted by MacAttack

THANK YOU, ALAN!

This is exactly the thread I was looking for. Joe - again, take note of the real photographs, and, go to Wal-Mart: two Fugi cameras for less than nine bucks.

Mac.

(PS - Alan, I'd give you some more points, but the system won't let me.)

Originally Posted by protrash64

X2....I just keep rating your threads excellent.

Damb system, J/K I love this system.

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

Lookin good Alan.... When I did mine I just used pop rivits. They also work but not factory.

Thanks, I was wondering how they would work.

Got my other window frames sandblasted today at work. Once I get them painted I'll do a write up on putting them back together.

[mbgmike]

If you are doing alot of these this is the tool we sell and use to set the revits. If doing just one its not worth the money but they do a profesional job.
cuts time to do to seconds not minutes.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by mbgmike

If you are doing alot of these this is the tool we sell and use to set the revits. If doing just one its not worth the money but they do a profesional job.
cuts time to do to seconds not minutes.

Thanks for the tip.

[joe231]

so when you buy the rivets it comes with the pivot rivet

sorry it is a serious question, it just sounds funny saying it out loud

very nice work and write up!!

Originally Posted by mbgmike

If you are doing alot of these this is the tool we sell and use to set the revits. If doing just one its not worth the money but they do a profesional job.
cuts time to do to seconds not minutes.

how much for the tool, and do you have a link?

[CSoliz]

Alan, what kind of paint and primer did you use. Also, what did you do about the strike plate for the latch handle while painting? did you leave it and tape it off or take it off?

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by joe231

so when you buy the rivets it comes with the pivot rivet

sorry it is a serious question, it just sounds funny saying it out loud

very nice work and write up!!

how much for the tool, and do you have a link?

Thanks Joe. The kit I got only had 2 pivot rivets and had plenty of the others. Since I have to disassemble the one I had put together to replace the glass channel. I had to get another rivet. Tim Christian came thru for me on more rivets.

Originally Posted by CSoliz

Alan, what kind of paint and primer did you use. Also, what did you do about the strike plate for the latch handle while painting? did you leave it and tape it off or take it off?

PPG K38 primer and PPG single stage black and I taped off the latch plate and the chrome beads on the main channel.

[hAetWagon]

Alan, can you get me dimensions on the pin you are talking about? I can probably machine one up at school.